Dash Clock Problem

[EsperHamid]

PS: Sorry couldn't find any similar thread on the forum, I searched a lot.

Dear Tuners,

After the swap of the engine by a mechanic that I really really didn't want it in the first place but was done and after I removed an ANTI-THEFT System which didn't work in the first place but was hanging under the dash steering wheel,
my accord 90 dash-board clock started having problems, it can't remember the time and it shows an extra digit on the left side, if it is 6:00 it shows 16:00 some times the extra digit fades then pop again.

I am really lost where should I check first, well talking about my part, I removed the anti-theft system myself, the only wire I found that was cut in half is the BLK/YELLOW cable between the ignition switch and its wire harness, so I had an extra electrical wire, the same used for house wiring (not the same gauge as the BLK/YELLOW ) and soldered the gap, the car starts normally, head lights too, no problems but the clock does what I mentioned

It might not be a nuisance for others but for me if the clock doesn't look right ... then my CB7 is not working right so please if someone can help.
If I remember, even before removing the anti-theft it was doing this but before the engine swap it was working normally and I don't think it is the clock itself nor the soldered BLK/YELLOW .

[wildBill83]

Your post is hard to follow.

Did you remove the security system with the battery still connected?

[EsperHamid]

Your post is hard to follow.

I stated 2 reasons:
1 - the mechanic that swapped my dead F22A4 to an F22A1
2 - the security system

Did you remove the security system with the battery still connected?

of course not, the thing I don't understand is that everything in the car works normally and I really don't want to do a dashboard removal it will take a lot of time.

[wildBill83]

No need to remove dashboard to remove the clock. Have you searched for the clock swap thread?

The motor swap is irrelavant, making the thread harder to follow.

[EsperHamid]

No need to remove dashboard to remove the clock. Have you searched for the clock swap thread?

I know how to remove the clock, but why should I, I don't think anything is wrong with it before the swap it was working normally.
I only mentioned dahsboard removal so I can follow the wiring to see if there's a problem.

The motor swap is irrelavant, making the thread harder to follow.

so you mean the engine swap has nothing to do with it ?!

[wildBill83]

Swap the clock first, they randomly fail. If you want to test wiring, remove the clock. There are only a few wires and are easy to test, but if the clock turns on, dims, and holds the time correctly, then the problem is not wiring. If it is displaying extra characters the clock is faulty.

How would the motor swap have anything to do with the clock?

[EsperHamid]

Swap the clock first, they randomly fail. If you want to test wiring, remove the clock. There are only a few wires and are easy to test, but if the clock turns on, dims, and holds the time correctly, then the problem is not wiring. If it is displaying extra characters the clock is faulty.

How would the motor swap have anything to do with the clock?

I don't have a clock right now, but how should I test the wires what do I measure ?

[wildBill83]

You don't have to quote the entire post above you and you don't gotta bold your responses,it's like yelling and the things you test for are in the photo you quoted... I'm confused...

There are only 4 wires, 12v constant, dimmer, ACC, and ground... None of which control the display. I'm going to say it one last time, if the clock turns on, dims, and holds the time correctly, then the problem is not wiring.

If you don't have a clock it sounds like you need to go get one.

[Quashish]

Is this real life??

[EsperHamid]

You don't have to quote the entire post above you and you don't gotta bold your responses,it's like yelling

LOL .... nope I am not yelling, " CAPS " is yelling, as for BOLD, most of my threads / posts are in bold, it is better for my viewing to track any mistakes in my posting ... so don't mind it, besides when people are asking for help, they yell, it is natural ....LOL J/K

and the things you test for are in the photo you quoted... I'm confused...

There are only 4 wires, 12v constant, dimmer, ACC, and ground... None of which control the display. I'm going to say it one last time, if the clock turns on, dims, and holds the time correctly, then the problem is not wiring.
If you don't have a clock it sounds like you need to go get one.

got it nvm, gonna test it tomorrow, but I did notice something @ night while testing, is that each time I hit the brake pedal the dashboard lights blinks (dim) then it gets back to normal ( less then a second ) and when I move the shifter, the extra digit appears on the clock, still the clock doesn't hold time.

[wildBill83]

See if you have 12v between pins B and D. If you do then the clock is faulty, if you don't you need to go through the fuses.

The lights dimming may be the ELD kicking in.

[EsperHamid]

See if you have 12v between pins B and D. If you do then the clock is faulty, if you don't you need to go through the fuses.

The lights dimming may be the ELD kicking in.

Ok it is getting a little crazy, I was reading in my Honda manual and I realized that the idle should be 800 +/- 50 rpm .... so I went and checked my idle and it fluctuates a little between 650 and 700 but most of the time it sits on 700 rpm.

so I went on and loosened my distributor, blue connector already shorted, no matter how I move the distributor, the idle refuses to change, even when I advance the timing, the idle stays @ 700 no matter what !!!

so I went on removed the IACV / EACV connector and poof !! since the I advanced the timing, the RPM shoots to 900-1000, I then re-adjusted the timing to 15 BTDC and the idle went on to spec @ 800 RPM

I re-tightened the distributor, un-shorted the blue pin, reset the ECU, plugged the EACV/IACV connector, turned the car on ---> idle went back to fluctuating between 650 and 700

<== NOPE !! <== I have a new problem now, but guess what after the above the CLOCK WORKED !! no extra digit !! no blinking !! remembers time !! weird !!

so my guess is that the other problem is either the IACV/EACV has a problem even though I don't get a CEL nor does the engine shrugs !! or the intake manifold has a leak, cause all the vacuum lines are good !!, no air in the cooling system .....my guess the manifold isn't well fastened into the cylinder head, I could notice one of the nuts isn't fastened enough, there's space between it and the head.

maybe this was cause by the mechanic when he swapped the engine. does the manifold of an F22A4 compatible with an F22A1 head ?!

[wildBill83]

The only difference between heads is the cam and valve springs, all F22A1/4/6 manifolds are compatible with all F22A1/4/6 heads. Honestly it sounds like you have a bad ground, now that could have been caused by the mechanic. A bad ground can cause capacitance and through EMF. Bad ground can also cause the light dimming you described earlier.

How bad is the fluctuation? Did you do this with the engine at temp or on first start?

When the mechanic did the swap did he also swap the ECU? Install the F22A4 manifold and exhaust if he didn't. The ECU may be expecting IAB function.

[EsperHamid]

. A bad ground can cause capacitance and through EMF. Bad ground can also cause the light dimming you described earlier.

I am sorry but on what basis are you saying that there's a bad ground ?! well the dashboard lights dim when I press the pedal only for a blink of an eye, but I guess it disappeared too today as well as with the clock problem.

How bad is the fluctuation? Did you do this with the engine at temp or on first start?

negligble really between 690-700 rpm, what drove me nuts is when the IACV/EACV is connected no matter what you do to the distributor is still 690-700 rpm ... when you disconnect the IACV/EACV .. I am able to advance or retard the timing.

When the mechanic did the swap did he also swap the ECU? Install the F22A4 manifold and exhaust if he didn't. The ECU may be expecting IAB function.

Nope, no ECU Change he doesn't know about electrical stuff he said, but I discovered - the clean mechanic he is - that many sensor wires were cut then twisted by hand instead of soldering them, I did fix it for both coolant sensors so do you think that other sensor wires maybe grounded too? but then again no CELs

gonna test IACV tomorrow and take out the manifold to clean it and re-installed as it should be, maybe replace the gasket, then test the ignition timing ... what do you think ?!

[Quashish]

More rep added to bill, op you should do the same