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innovate lc-1 12 v constant or ignition

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    innovate lc-1 12 v constant or ignition

    In the process of hooking up my innovate lc-1 wideband and dont know for sure if u hook it up to constant hot 12 volts or 12 v ignition, basically only powers up when i hit my ignition toggle, just didnt know what to do cause i thought u would have to recalibrate it all the time if it wasnt constant 12 v, anyone got input, need it done now and its getting ready to storm, already got it hooked to 12v constant. thanks, please throw some input in asap, thanks...... josh

    #2
    Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a minimum fuse size of 5A.

    It is NOT a good idea to connect the LC-1 permanently to 12V and switch it on with a separate switch before the vehicle is started. Depending on the climate and the sensor position in the exhaust, condensation water can form in the exhaust pipes. This condensation water could then be blown by the exhaust stream against the hot sensor when the car is started. The resulting heat shock can permanently damage the sensor.

    This is in the manual you should have got with the wideband, if you don't have a manual you should go on there website and get it cause it also tells you where and how to mount the o2 sensor.

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      #3
      i do have the manual and did finally see its with the ignitiong toggle 12v not constant, anyway my biggest pro is calibrating it, i know u leave it out of the exhaust and push the button in i guess then do u screw it into the exhaust cause then it talk about heated sensor calibration and dont understand. anyone explain it a little aeasier, in the manual it dont really say when to screw it back in after the free air calibration and dont understand the heated cal.

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        #4
        Not really sure, I've always used the aem widebands and you just hook it up and go, no calibration etc. Good luck with it, id call a shop or innovative themselves for a fast answer on that.

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          #5
          As soon as you are done the free air calibration you screw it into the exhaust.

          I never actually removed my LC-1 from the exhaust to do the calibration. I always did my calibration in the morning after the car had sat over night. Never had any issues doing it that way.
          MR Thread
          GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

          by Chappy, on Flickr

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            #6
            Ok thanks. one more question, when u are calibrating it and got it undone from the exaust, do u just push the button once then screw it in because the manual conflics itself and says something different also

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              #7
              and while its calibrating, let it run undone from the exaust until normal operating temp, still dont know whether to just push button once or hold it in or what

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                #8
                Ive looked and looked at the schematic for the p06 and its showing D14 as 02 input and shows white, but my d14 is a different weird color, not white, dont know what to do, thinking about hooking it upto the only solid white wire in the D section of pins, anyone.....

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                  #9
                  What colour is the wire in D14? It should be white or white w/red stripe.

                  As for the calibration duration. The manual states that you first switch on the O2 sensor. How you do this depends on how you have it hooked up. If you have it hooked up to an ignition switched 12v then all you need to do is turn your ignition to II. Then let the O2 sensor warm up. It will get pretty hot. Once it has warmed up you are supposed to push the button (aka ground the calibration wire) for 3-4 seconds. The calibration is then complete. Cut the 12v power to the LC-1 for a minute before you screw it back into the exhaust.

                  Page 9 of the manual has the step by step.
                  MR Thread
                  GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                  by Chappy, on Flickr

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                    #10
                    I did everything right but i think ive got the wrong wire on the ecu, D14 isnt white or white with any kind of stripe, logworks software that come with it says theres nothing there to show like on the gauges and crome wont show it as hooked up euther, tried them at different times of coarse. but the light blinked and calibrated like it should, just like it said so it has to be the wrong wire and all the research ive done says what i already thought it was, d14 which is suppose to be white, d16 is white, tried it and noithing... idk im stuck and need this going, thanks for some info guys......

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                      #11
                      No matter what colour the wire is, if you have an OBD1 ECU, the stock narrow band O2 signal goes into D14. What ECU and wire harness are you using?

                      FYI reading a wideband signal through the stock O2 circuit will limit the wideband signal. You can still tune it, however the highest voltage you will read is 3.48v. So if you leave it set to 0-5v and you see the AFR stuck at 17:1 that is why......the voltage is probably over the threshold of the circuit. You don't want 17:1 and you would need to add more fuel anyway...

                      Do you have the loop back plug installed on the LC-1 controller?

                      How do you have it wired?
                      MR Thread
                      GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                      by Chappy, on Flickr

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                        #12
                        no, i dont have it looped, what exactly do u mean and yes i finally have it wired up and its reading 3. something volts. i just have the brown analog 2 wire hooked up to d14. what can i do to fix the voltage

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                          #13
                          Not sure if the loop back would make any difference in your case. Unless you are running an Innovate gauge or another piece of their tuning equipment as well. Sorry I got ahead of myself on that one.

                          But FYI,
                          Your LC-1 controller should have 2 serial output wires. They are the 3.5mm audio style plugs. The "Serial In" plug should have a loop back (terminator) plug installed in it.


                          As for the voltage issue, what ECU are you running and what tuning/datalogging software are you using?
                          MR Thread
                          GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                          by Chappy, on Flickr

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                            #14
                            It did come with the loop piece, have the out running to my laptop to crome for datalogging and running a p06 ecu. I dont have a gauge, was using the software it came with and mainly crome to monitor it so i cant loop it unell i have a gauge, what does looping it do?

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                              #15
                              Innovate makes all of their components compatible and they can be connected in a daisy chain/closed loop circuit. Each component will talk to the next. The last piece of hardware in the chain has to be terminated (looped). When you only have one piece of hardware it has to be terminated in order for it to communicate.

                              If your reading 3.** volts then you ether have very lean AFR's or your not getting proper voltage readings from the sensor.
                              MR Thread
                              GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                              by Chappy, on Flickr

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