Originally posted by Raf99
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
Please DO NOT Post In The General Section
From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.
The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
See more
See less
Troubleshooting lean condition on turbo H22
Collapse
X
-
-13F, holy shizzle that's cold as a mofo
So something is provoking fuel to cut when the ecu otherwise thinks it is being delivered, resulting in lean issue.
Whatever that is causing this, is specific to engine temps. Basically what I am saying is that you cannot make it go lean when the engine/coolant are cold, correct?
Have you verified the injector box itself is still within spec?
should ohm out between 5-7 ohms at the injector if I remember right
Once the lean condition is present, what happens when you feather the peddle?
Does it react at all? Or just stumble and eventually die?
Have you inspected your main relay for faults? The main relay can impact injector firing also.
I am honestly feeling like something is influencing your injectors not to fire, and am wondering if the grounds to your ecu could be improved, if your resistor box is bad or failing or something to that affect. My guy is leaning towards injectors are not firing for whatever reason. Now we just need to figure out why. Can you audibly confirm with a long flat head screw driver that the injectors are opening/closing? You should be able to hear them when you touch a long screw driver to the injector and put your ear to the other side.
I'd bet that something is causing your injectors not to fire.Last edited by toycar; 03-15-2017, 01:37 PM.Originally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
Comment
-
Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Postdoes your ECU read your o2 from your wideband or your factory o2?
Originally posted by toycar View Post-13F, holy shizzle that's cold as a mofo
So something is provoking fuel to cut when the ecu otherwise thinks it is being delivered, resulting in lean issue.
Whatever that is causing this, is specific to engine temps. Basically what I am saying is that you cannot make it go lean when the engine/coolant are cold, correct?
Have you verified the injector box itself is still within spec?
should ohm out between 5-7 ohms at the injector if I remember right
Once the lean condition is present, what happens when you feather the peddle?
Does it react at all? Or just stumble and eventually die?
Have you inspected your main relay for faults? The main relay can impact injector firing also.
I am honestly feeling like something is influencing your injectors not to fire, and am wondering if the grounds to your ecu could be improved, if your resistor box is bad or failing or something to that affect. My guy is leaning towards injectors are not firing for whatever reason. Now we just need to figure out why. Can you audibly confirm with a long flat head screw driver that the injectors are opening/closing? You should be able to hear them when you touch a long screw driver to the injector and put your ear to the other side.
I'd bet that something is causing your injectors not to fire.
Ya, too cold to have the garage door open! But I agree on the injectors. The ECU ground i specifically know where that is and made sure it was bare metal. The resistor box I'll have to check, this requires taking the bumper off, headlights out, and fender off
"Whatever that is causing this, is specific to engine temps. Basically what I am saying is that you cannot make it go lean when the engine/coolant are cold, correct? "
- The trend is cold, no problems. Warms up and stalls when returning to idle with a lean condition. Get's worse really quick to the point where the car won't start.
"Have you verified the injector box itself is still within spec?
should ohm out between 5-7 ohms at the injector if I remember right
Once the lean condition is present"
- See above...
"what happens when you feather the peddle?
Does it react at all? Or just stumble and eventually die?"
- It recovers, but is not happy. Spitting, sputtering, I usually shut it off shortly after this.
"Have you inspected your main relay for faults? The main relay can impact injector firing also. "
- Have not..
But let's slow down here. What I'm going to do is setup 3 cameras on the cluster, gauge pod, and laptop/Hondata. Start the car and let it warm up and hopefully merge these 3 vids into one, although i don't have software todo this with...
And I still want to get an Alternator for it and a new battery. Anyone know a good Alternator place to buy online?
Comment
-
Originally posted by Rilas View PostCan't you get your alternator rebuilt somewhere local? Might be cheaper for you up there in Canada.
Have some patience for me folks, waiting for warm weather and looking into everything folks mentioned.
Comment
-
O2 sensor is likely in closed loop/closed loop advanced
and for that matter, initial startup = open loop / car warmed up usually closed loop @idle
perhaps there IS an issue with your O2Originally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
Comment
-
Well today i started the car and got two good videos. These videos are after I let the car warm up. The car starts no problem, idles fine, 14.7A/F, .... a normal car. 14.5V on the battery with the car running, good fuel pressure, no "spitting or sputtering". The issue is when the car is hot and you let off the throttle it doesn't want to "recover" quickly at idle. The hotter it gets the worse. The time it spends in 15+A/F is when it wants to die...... eventually the recovery is no longer possible or it hangs out in that condition for longer periods of time. I'm also not sure about the injector ground, that will take a lot of work to check but ... part of the plan. I'm hoping to start the car another warmer day and really make it stall out. But hope you get the idea.
Oh, and I ordered an alternator for the car too.
Warmed up / gauge pod / rev engine.
Warmed up / hondata - Not the same date/time, but another good example
Closed Loop / Advanced Hondata
Comment
-
Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Postactually looks like your IACV might be dieing..
wouldn't we see that reflected on the rpm gauge?
wouldn't we see the symptoms all the time?
Comment
-
That video with the graph really sucks. I guess the issue is best summed up in these pics. We see a perfectly idle car with A/F, ECT , S.trim, etc on the left. I blip the trottle and it really can't find itself again for a while.
So here we see the ECU realizing the fuel delivery is not adequate (or too much air) and starts to increate the S.Trim to compensate. But then it's too much and we are rich, so it removes S.Trim. So after returning to idle the data is telling me that there is too much air. But before the throttle blip it was just fine, implies there is no major air leak which is "fixing" itself.
- we see injectors spike and then shutoff, turn back on to catch the car as the rpm returns to idle
- ignition spikes briefly after returning to idle, calibrating I believe and trying to bring the A/F back to normal. Notice that it doesn't help...
- what's interesting is that after the A/F spike drops off (0.07) there is no change in INJ, IGN, or TPS. Just the S.Trim slowely increasing.
Jeeesh, all this data make me think that a rubber hose is heating up and when I come off the throttle it can't handle the extreme suction and leakes air for 3-5 seconds. As pressure drops it closes the leak. The warmer the engine bay the more flexible the rubber hose....
I have a feeling this issue is going to be a PITA.
Comment
Comment