Originally posted by mtnickel
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For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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Dyno tuned today
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did you disable closed loop? make sure the ECU isnt trying to correct while you are tuning. 10s is pretty rich for WOT, i would back it up to high 11s if you want to be "safe", low 12s if you feel more confident. My personal advice would be to leave ignition alone until you can get on a dyno, or if thats not an option, get an EGT gauge.Last edited by Accord R33; 10-31-2006, 05:25 PM.
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so im assuming he's still internally gated..lol
So what are the a/fs looking like and what kind of step timing(or just timing) is being used for boost?
Adding to R33, I don't think that is a valid graph since the tq does spike a lot, with a consistent hp.
Mt Nickel- I've been wondering your username. I've been trying to figure out who I've been emailing all that stuff too.lol. the 4th gear pull with be most accurate, and if i remember right, 2nd is leaner then 3rd, and 3rd is leaner then 4th. So tune on the rich side conservatively.Shift_BOOST

BOOM!
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I have disabled closed loop, and i'm only starting at 10s to be purposefully rich...i wouldn't wanna start at 12-12.5 and work down...Originally posted by Accord R33did you disable closed loop? make sure the ECU isnt trying to correct while you are tuning. 10s is pretty rich for WOT, i would back it up to high 11s if you want to be "safe", low 12s if you feel more confident. My personal advice would be to leave ignition alone until you can get on a dyno, or if thats not an option, get an EGT gauge.
I'm adjusting moving upwards from 10-11 to 11.5ish...will also aim for 11.5-high 11's for all boost >4psi, and around low 12's for <4psi, and 13 for 0psi.
As for ignition, i will probably leave it alone.
On a side note for ignition, i played with several maps i found, from the 14b turbo map From MRX, to 92ex's map, and found the best in NA form to be a timing map sort of based off the GSR timing. Similar, but adjusted for an H23...Seemed the strongest on my car...the other maps i had lacked midrange grunt, and the map i found was nice and responsive. perhaps could have been due to fuel issues instead of timing, but i donno, it was more conservative and reved faster and has worked good so far.
92ex...as for tuning, ya 4th gear is most accurate, but pretty hard realistically in my neighborhood, might have to head out to the boonies to get some 4th gear pulls in.
And as for the leaning of lower gears, it hasn't been that prevalent and can sometimes be richer...it's strange.
Tuning idle is a science too...runs 14.7 with the lights on, but when the lights and accessories are off, it runs leaner 18.5afr (less load = leaner i guess in general, although i'm not sure how that makes sense).
I'll keep on it and maybe start my own thread...picked up a lot of info on my turbo journey.
only thing that really bugs me right now is my wastegate function...at first it would rise to 8.5psi in LOW rpm (~2500), and then by 4500 it would drop slowly to 5.5psi.
Then i was told to add preload to the wastegate rod...did that, now it spikes higher to 9.5 and settles to around 6.5. Sigh...
Maybe i ported the wastegate too much and at high rpm it blows open.
Seems strange though as most DSMs only blow open on ported wastegates at REALLY high boost (20psi boost will blow open to only 17psi or whatnot).
Guess i'll have to play with things and see what works best.
Mark
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2" chargepipes are pretty small all things considered, youre not getting pressure drop from them... i would determine if the WG is your problem first. dont go spend money and time on a tial. sparkle, he's running a 16g, which would mean he would need to get an entirely different manifold, probably custom fabbed for a DSM+WG, which is entirely stupid and more money than it's worth.
but this thread is getting way off topic... nice numbers... i cant wait to see pics of all the underhood goodies, i love the blue/ITR's!1993 CB7
2001 BB6
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Maybe I'll try and get some new pictures from the track this Saturday. The car and wheels are filthy though, and I really don't like cleaning said car.
Thanks for the props!
Sorry I can't help you mtnickel. You should get valuable help here, but if not, asking the F.I. forum on Honda-Tech is always a great source too.wat
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clean the car out definitely and then do some weight reduction perhapsOriginally posted by straightedgeMaybe I'll try and get some new pictures from the track this Saturday. The car and wheels are filthy though, and I really don't like cleaning said car.
Thanks for the props!
Sorry I can't help you mtnickel. You should get valuable help here, but if not, asking the F.I. forum on Honda-Tech is always a great source too.
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you made amazing numbers on parts that never belonged on the car, be proud.Last edited by MRX; 11-01-2006, 04:32 PM.
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dame your set up isn't to far from the parts i have......i know what to look forward to.
by the way did you have any problems with your KMS valve springs and the 272 cam, i waiting for my new valve locks to come in. and then i'm putting the head together in about a week or so. a heads up would be nice.

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