Cisco NA F22 non-VTEC SOHC Project - Mild Red

[HondaFan81]

Idkm, It completely changed my car! It fired up and idled erraticaly between 1500 and 2500 cold, and really sounded like a drag car. I could hear noises that might have been pinging, but second thoughts it maybe just my valves that i heard when the cylinders misfire and there is a moment of quiet when I can acutally hear my valves. It really wanted to rev but I didn't drive it due to ping concerns. I rolled back your timing a little (4 or 5 degrees) and got a decent few runs with it. Since my timing at the distributor is about 3 or 4 degrees advanced anyway we were probably pretty equal after I rolled it back in the ROM. Your map made my car pull harder than it ever has before in the 1-3k range

Cisco, could your idle possibly have reversion? with your tapered TB and polished IM there are no steps in the intake anymore... read about a similar issue this morning and it also required lots of timing

Not 100% sure if it has to do with it, but in addition to the ported intake manifold, bored TB, I also have headwork to compliment the setup. My exhaust ports were significantly improved over stock by about 40 cfm in Delta 272 spec range.

Side note, I did already read that thread on the reversion, thanks anyways. Also, my intake manifold in the runners didn't have any mirror polish, it was a rougher finish that CHR (Jeff) did.

Also, my physical ignition timing at the dizzy is set at 17 deg right now, with 27.5 deg in the idle areas within the Uberdata version #5 map we're on. I am also idling at 900-1000 rpm now.

[MRX]

U may have to adjust your FITV to cure the high cold idle. Try playing with uber settings first tho if you can. Other than the idle how'd it drive? I'm pretty much only worried about stuttering under partial throttle right now. Power will come all too easy.

[HondaFan81]

U may have to adjust your FITV to cure the high cold idle. Try playing with uber settings first tho if you can. Other than the idle how'd it drive? I'm pretty much only worried about stuttering under partial throttle right now. Power will come all too easy.

I know you are talking to hemlockz, but just FYI I already did all the FITV, EGR and IACV adjustments/cleaning before install of all the parts. My TPS was set to factory specs from www.maxbore.com too when he did the bore.

By the way, I am still getting the CEL (most likely the same # 4, will have to double check) after installing a new OEM distributor housing with new sensors, reused the previous igniter unit and internal ignition coil.

I am going to look into the wiring diagrams for this crank sensor and understand the system as best I can. I have checked wiring from the ECU to the dizzy and found it all to be good, needless to say I do NEVER get a CEL at idle or in other conditions. I also do not seem to get it when I partial throttle open it up, comes on when I romp it WOT getting aggressive on it.

[hemlockz]

U may have to adjust your FICV to cure the high cold idle. Try playing with uber settings first tho if you can. Other than the idle how'd it drive? I'm pretty much only worried about stuttering under partial throttle right now. Power will come all too easy.

Runs good down low but I never got out of the city last nite to check on the top end. I want to test it out this afternoon but I really have to wait for rush hour traffic to end. Hopefully I can give you an update late tonite.

[HondaFan81]

I have another lead that I will be testing out tonight on my red car to eliminate another possibility of the CEL cause. Hopefully it fixes it, it is rather annoying even if it does not affect driveability.

[HondaFan81]

Been busy working on other people's cars and helping my friend at his shop. I haven't worked on this car lately for the past couple weeks.

CEL # 4 - crank position sensor issue:

I know the crank sensor unit itself is a good unit. It is a pick-up type sensor, so the fact it is within spec and should be working correctly, obviously tells me something is tripping it. It is not the ECU either, as I've used the other P06 ECU I have and it still does it. It is not the distributor as the original unit was fine, but I changed it out for a new OEM unit (for heck of it) and it still does it. It seems the CEL # 4 goes off when I'm at 4000 rpms + and I recently found out in 5th gear @ 100 mph @ 4000 RPM cruising for a few minutes it will go off as well.

Anyhow, this is just talking out loud...

1) I thought that perhaps it was a mechanical/physical issue with the valvetrain. However, I have a few things that go against that theory. If something was mechanically not correct, I should get a CEL after starting the car up and/or at idle, not when higher in the RPMs. Also, the crank sensor is functional as a unit itself, so if there is CEL #4 it is more than likely because the sensor itself is bad (which it is not, internal resistance checks out) or it is a wiring issue. To me it seems this sensor is output oriented and not input, there are people here setting ignition timing way off and not getting these codes or back when the dealer had cam timing off on our 90 EX Accord and we never got a code for that either!

2) So basically I'm thinking it's a wiring issue and the fact that in the diagrams it shows these 3 sensors in the distributor having radio shielding around the wires in some areas tells me they must be sensitive to inteference. So I am thinking that this heatlamp being in that passenger-side shock tower area for a majority of the time we worked on my car melted some of the shielding/insulation or something.

Anyhow, I'm more motivated figuring out my CEL # 4 issue. I will look at electrical connector & wiring that's distributor related near the passenger-side shock tower. I have speculation that perhaps there is some wiring issue there because my friend had a nice (but very hot) spotlight to light up the engine bay and most of the time he had it placed in that passenger-side shock tower area....so I'm thinking perhaps it has something to do with this CEL # 4.

Onto other issues, I still want to take care of some 2300-2800 rpm blips in partial throttle conditions with MRX, deal with this NC issue I have and then get money for the dyno tuning together. Anyhow, it will come soon, I just can't dictate how random crap pops up. Sometimes I can hit my stuff hardcore and other times it's like I have to put it on the waiting list. What drives me nuts is, I'm not even a full-time mechanic, but sometimes I feel like it's my 2nd job now. I don't mind it some days, but other days I'd rather be chilling/relaxing or working on performance related shit and not repair/preventative maintenance shit.

[MRX]

u have to find out where in the map it is for me to fix it. I need vacuum readings of where it blips. It'll probably be in the 13-8 in/hg range

[HondaFan81]

u have to find out where in the map it is for me to fix it. I need vacuum readings of where it blips. It'll probably be in the 13-8 in/hg range

I know dis maaaaaan. BTW peeps, I'm running in open loop mode (no O2 sensor input) on Antoine/MRX's map version # 5 for me and I get to and from work just fine. There is really nothing I can complain about for a street/E-tune map, but I'm picky and well there is always room for improvement so that is where the tweaks are coming from.

Just throwing that out there for you people to know.

[MRX]

and when i was in the car...i felt nothing. Smooth as a baby's bottom from the passenger seat.

[HondaFan81]

and when i was in the car...i felt nothing. Smooth as a baby's bottom from the passenger seat.

CEL came on again while on highway doing some semi-aggressive driving. For kicks when I pulled into a gas station, I checked for codes again expecting the CEL #4 (crank sensor) I got before. Keep in mind I get the CEL that pops up when doing some half-aggressive or aggressive runs and I just blow it off. However, I checked at a gas station today after it had come on again and to my surprise I got CELs # 1 (heater O2 sensor) and # 7 (throttle sensor).

Interesting....different codes now. I noticed the car idles rougher than before and sometimes dies out or just about does. Now like all the time when you're around the 2500 rpm range +/- a few hundred RPMs from this it has blips/stutters some and it does not matter what gear your in...it's RPM dependent.

[HondaFan81]

Reset ECU yesterday and on the way to work this morning I got up to between 90-100 mph on the highway not really getting on it hard and it gave me a CEL again. I checked it when I got to work and it was CEL # 7 only (TPS). When this CEL # 7 goes on, the engine doesn't run as smooth, definite blips throughout that are annoying. So now I wonder if my TPS is going bad or if this is tied into the CEL # 4 (crank sensor) and maybe they are two related wiring issues.

BTW, I have not had CEL # 4 pop up again for the past week that I've checked my CELs (before I just assumed it was the same CEL, but now I'm thinking it may not have repeated # 4 as much as I thought).

[v4lu3s]

have you tested to make sur eyour TPS is providing the right voltage range?

[HondaFan81]

have you tested to make sur eyour TPS is providing the right voltage range?

Keep getting pulled off for other jobs. That is what I was going to check when I had time. I'll get results soon. But yea, the CEL # 4 hasn't come back this past week that I've been checking my CELs. Just this CEL # 7 is a repeat.

[hemlockz]

maybe it could be a sensor ground issue since those sensors seem to share the same ground (green/white or similar?). You could check that connection in the wiring harness. You could also try putting a noise filtering capacitor in between the ground and the crank sensor, O2, and TPS signals. For the O2 heater, either disable it in the ROM, or install a 20watt 10k resistor between the O2 heater and ground, bypassing the sensor (what I did... make sure its in the engine bay because it gets warm).

[HondaFan81]

maybe it could be a sensor ground issue since those sensors seem to share the same ground (green/white or similar?). You could check that connection in the wiring harness. You could also try putting a noise filtering capacitor in between the ground and the crank sensor, O2, and TPS signals. For the O2 heater, either disable it in the ROM, or install a 20watt 10k resistor between the O2 heater and ground, bypassing the sensor (what I did... make sure its in the engine bay because it gets warm).

O2 sensor has been disabled by the ECU. I just have to get time to sit and fiddle with things again. Almost done working on other people's jobs. All I can say is, my car driveability is getting blippy all-around. I truly think something is up with the TPS based on how the engine is running currently. I'm just hoping it is the TPS unit itself and now wiring related going to the TPS (more of a pain to track down and deal with).