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Installing nitrous

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  • bigpoppa694lyfe
    replied
    Originally posted by domesticated View Post
    Check dates much? Haha!
    Your saying this to a member of 10years. I'm pretty sure his post isn't nearly as bad as some who revive a post almost 2 years old.

    Leave a comment:


  • domesticated
    replied
    Check dates much? Haha!

    Leave a comment:


  • h22sparkle
    replied
    Honestly I wouldn't even go this route especially since you have turbo. I personally would just go the turbo route make sure my motor is built for power and then take it to the next level.

    Then just change the setup with it for more boost. Its the heat that messes things up why not water meth injection on top of that turbo setup. It will do you a world of good and you don't have to constantly fill up the bottle.

    Leave a comment:


  • MortsAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by toycar View Post
    Yeah I agree that theres only one way to do it, the right way.

    However, 10-11:1 is MUCH safer than 20:1, and that was what I was eluding to.

    Ive been emailing back and forth with this guy for probably a year helping him where I can.


    Im proud of him to be honest with you guys. He knew NOTHING about tuning when I first started talking back and forth with him.

    His tune isn't perfect, but holy shit has it come a long way. And hes not using an emulator, so its trial, log and error for him. Its by far the hardest way to tune, and he is/was new to it.

    to you Josh
    Grats for helping a newcommer in the world of car mod.

    Respect for taking time to help.

    Leave a comment:


  • toycar
    replied
    Yeah I agree that theres only one way to do it, the right way.

    However, 10-11:1 is MUCH safer than 20:1, and that was what I was eluding to.

    Ive been emailing back and forth with this guy for probably a year helping him where I can.


    Im proud of him to be honest with you guys. He knew NOTHING about tuning when I first started talking back and forth with him.

    His tune isn't perfect, but holy shit has it come a long way. And hes not using an emulator, so its trial, log and error for him. Its by far the hardest way to tune, and he is/was new to it.

    to you Josh

    Leave a comment:


  • deevergote
    replied
    Originally posted by MortsAccord View Post
    running too rich hurts power and can wash out your cyln walls and pollute your oil.

    Just a note....
    running excessive fuel pressure(+60psi) to compensate for high injector duty cycle @ 45psi fuel pressure is also bad. High fuel pressures will inevitably cause unreliable injection.... Then you end up lean and you get the exact thing you were trying to prevent, a meltdown in the engine.
    Absolutely.
    Honestly, there's only one way to do it right... and that's the right way. Relying on a rich mixture or high fuel pressure to compensate for a halfassed approach will eventually result in disaster.

    Rich is safer than lean in terms of immediate damage, but rich will cause issues as well (in addition to the things already said, running too rich can cause carbon buildup, which could lead to valves that don't properly close... and it can also foul plugs and sensors, which can cause a number of issues.)

    Leave a comment:


  • MortsAccord
    replied
    running too rich hurts power and can wash out your cyln walls and pollute your oil.

    Just a note....
    running excessive fuel pressure(+60psi) to compensate for high injector duty cycle @ 45psi fuel pressure is also bad. High fuel pressures will inevitably cause unreliable injection.... Then you end up lean and you get the exact thing you were trying to prevent, a meltdown in the engine.

    I can't believe I missed this:
    Originally posted by domesticated
    20:1? He's gonna blow the welds on his intake...
    Lol, i hope your just trolling some fast and furious banter there.

    Leave a comment:


  • toycar
    replied
    Originally posted by tootall View Post
    Actually i have my afr perfect at idle,it jumps sroun between 12 and 14.5, from there on out to wot its actually really rich untill i get it all adjusted, im running around 10.5 to 11 all the way from1500 rpm all the way throough my boost, my buddy baked and melted his pistons running lean so running a little rich till i get it perfect at wot throttle is better than lean, at least it wont hurt anything, thanks, and thank u toycar!
    No problem man!!


    Sounds like a good plan. Running rich is always much safer than going lean!

    What is your injector duty cycle running now? Do you have room left in your injectors?


    Sounds like you are a lot closer to being able to setup n2o than I thought. Glad you got your tuned dialed into something thats atleast safe!


    Leave a comment:


  • tootall
    replied
    Actually i have my afr perfect at idle,it jumps sroun between 12 and 14.5, from there on out to wot its actually really rich untill i get it all adjusted, im running around 10.5 to 11 all the way from1500 rpm all the way throough my boost, my buddy baked and melted his pistons running lean so running a little rich till i get it perfect at wot throttle is better than lean, at least it wont hurt anything, thanks, and thank u toycar!

    Leave a comment:


  • toycar
    replied
    With AFR's all out of whack, you are not really able to take advantage of advancing ignition timing under peak boost either, so in my opinion the money would be better spent getting your tune straightened out.


    I bet you are missing 20-30% of the power you are already setup to make, just because the tune is shotty.

    Leave a comment:


  • deevergote
    replied
    Honestly, for what it would cost to install and tune a nitrous system, you could simply upgrade your turbo for an extra 50hp... full time.

    A 50 shot is relatively harmless on a stock car, but on a highly modified turbo honda, it's a serious risk. Especially if you're still learning, and not having it done professionally. A quick 50hp squirt at the track really isn't worth risking a blown engine, IMO.

    However, if you do choose to go that route, MortsAccord has the right idea about the dry shot, provided your injectors are up to supplying the proper amount of fuel. Overwork those injectors, and you'll go boom.
    A single fogger dry shot will be more evenly distributed than a single fogger wet shot. If you get a wet kit, you'll run the risk of overfueling the cylinders closest to the throttle body, and underfueling the cylinders furthest. All you need is to run too lean in one of the furthest cylinders, and you'll have a nicely ventilated block. A port injection kit, with dedicated nitrous and fuel nozzles for each cylinder would be the safest, and easiest to tune... but that's a pretty serious project, and it won't be cheap.

    Leave a comment:


  • toycar
    replied
    Originally posted by domesticated View Post
    20:1?

    You shouldn't be driving your car like that. Or thinking about adding more air. You already don't have enough fuel.
    Preaching to the choir here brother

    Hes not using an emulator, so he has to burn a new chip everytime he adjusts anything, and he is trying to be self taught.

    I told him the odds are stacked against him but try not to get frustrated. I haven't heard wether or not he got his fuel delivery dialed in.

    Leave a comment:


  • domesticated
    replied
    20:1? He's gonna blow the welds on his intake...

    You shouldn't be driving your car like that. Or thinking about adding more air. You already don't have enough fuel.

    Leave a comment:


  • toycar
    replied
    Sorry I didn't respond to your email, just saw that and then saw this.

    I wouldn't mess with n2o until you have your tune figured out. How are your afr's lately?

    Still 20:1 under boost? n2o could blow your motor if so


    There is a lot of information on setting this up in the nitrous sub section. If it was me, I would get my tune straight before adding anything go fast related.


    That being said, you could probably build more pressure to make more power if you are itching for more once you get your tune buttoned down. You still making 15 psi or so?

    I have a feeling you would best benefit from a quality tuner getting in there with a dyno and a few hours to fiddle around.

    Leave a comment:


  • domesticated
    replied
    Originally posted by MortsAccord View Post

    I don't know what domesticated means really, but I hope its not they way I first took it when reading his post.**thinking on nozzle systems here**
    Some people don't put it as close to the intake as possible not paying attention to heat soak and that a lot of the power comes from heat and not just the richer o2 content. ZEX sells a filter that has the nozzle plug directly into the filter as far away as possible. I've seen them on the atmospheric side of a turbo before. Just saying it needs to be as close the the TB as possible. If he had the knowledge and means to go direct port he wouldn't be asking questions. Dry is the safest way to go if you're thorough. Absolutely no risk of back fire. But if you have to go wet I wouldn't ever run a wet kit unless it was direct port.

    I ran a 100 shot on my 2.4 in my Neon with every N/A mod possible except stock internals and it ran like a champ. It was dry too. Here soon I'll be putty a mild dry shot on the H22.

    No matter what you decide tuning is important. Otherwise you'll be just another ricer who blew his shit up with "naws".

    Leave a comment:

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