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lower profile tires, polyurethane bushings, and proper swaybars can achieve the same desired effect. its not ALL about spring rate and struts =D.Originally posted by FAK_LAF View Post
Again, the only reason I switched to a "propper lowering spring" was because I needed a higher rate to keep the oil pan, transmission, and UCA's from hitting stuff.Comment
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Tires(especially lower profile ones), bushings, and swaybars cannot fix poorly chosen springsOriginally posted by xkjnboix View Post
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Ya I was gonna quote him on that comment but didn't, because I didn't feel like gettin flammed
**Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**
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Even if you have 12k springs, if you have huge 65 profile tires, 20 y/o worn out bushings, and 0 - stock sway bars you will bottom out on overpass downslopes and other huge bumps ITS A FACT. Your springs will stay stiff but ALL of that force will be picked up by the slack tires, bushings, and weak stabilizer bar. Suspension ride quality is NOT solely dependent on springs and struts. Springs and struts are AS important as the rest of your suspension components.Originally posted by gloryaccordy View Post
Even Mugen knows this from way back in the 80's when they mugen'ed their first project ( g1 integra ). They not only upgraded the springs and struts, but also the bushings all around. That plus some aero with lighter rims and smaller profile tires. Im just shining on SOME of their suspension mods not even mentioning some of the brilliant things they did with the motor. Mugen knew what they were doing from day 1.
Last edited by xkjnboix; 04-25-2012, 02:30 PM.Comment
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All the components you listed are important, but low profile tires, bushings and sway bars will not be able to rectify springs that basically have your chassis resting on asphalt. This is like saying "good bushings/sway bars will help if a wheel falls off". Yea in a very secondary sense, but not at all criticallyOriginally posted by xkjnboix View PostEven if you have 12k springs, if you have huge 65 profile tires, 20 y/o worn out bushings, and 0 - stock sway bars you will bottom out on overpass downslopes and other huge bumps ITS A FACT. Your springs will stay stiff but ALL of that force will be picked up by the slack tires, bushings, and weak stabilizer bar. Suspension ride quality is NOT solely dependent on springs and struts. Springs and struts are AS important as the rest of your suspension components.
Even Mugen knows this from way back in the 80's when they mugen'ed their first project ( g1 integra ). They not only upgraded the springs and struts, but also the bushings all around. That plus some aero with lighter rims and smaller profile tires. Im just shining on SOME of their suspension mods not even mentioning some of the brilliant things they did with the motor. Mugen knew what they were doing from day 1.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Just get some cheap springs http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Accord...419e91&vxp=mtr
My question is when or why do you need lowering shocks?Comment
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Good god those springs cant be anything good. They will prob have your shit sitting sideways.Originally posted by thepowderblue View Post
You should get upgraded shocks with any set of lowering springs.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Although it is recommended to upgrade shocks with anything that makes your car lower. I believe tein makes a set of springs that is compatible with stock shocks. I know that is what crazymikey is running on his car. It doesn't provide much of a drop, but I like the way his car looks once they settled in. I might buy the same ones soon.Originally posted by gloryaccordy View Post
Now, if you have 20 year old shocks on the car. Don't even bother lowing your car .25"! At least get some nice replacements!
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With the new ride height and spring rate, you will be at risk of blowing your shocks. Hence, it is in peoples best interested to get shocks with lowering springs.Originally posted by thepowderblue View PostComment
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From what I've read and come to understand so far...
If you cut your springs... do it the right way to avoid any potential altercations of the metallurgy. See phase diagrams for the metal used in the springs.
It's probably better just to buy actual lowering springs especially if the car is a track car.
I think that it also boils down to the fact that during the whole fast and furious era, most people who cut their springs also had the IQ of cheese. Therefore, there could have been a LOT of problems with the way they were doing things. If you can actually properly measure cut the springs with a saw or dremel then great. It worked and you saved a lot of money. But I will bet that you didn't simply jack up your car, rip the suspension out, and start cutting. I'm going to assume that some sort of planning (measuring, etc.) was done.
Would I ever do this? No. But at the same time... My automotive knowledge and know-how stops at the ability to do maintenance on my car.Comment
they are no better then cut springs.
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