vibration between 68-80mph

[Stoner51]

Yes. I replaced the rotors about 5 months ago.

steve

[cb7 calling]

Has either rotor re-warped yet? My passenger rotor warped again a month after replacement. I'm leaning toward a new hub, or entire j/y knuckle for my shaky shakes.
Edit* just realized I posted basicaly the same thing on page one. Obviously I'm tired of working on mine. I've been saying next weekend for a long time now.

[Stoner51]

Ok. So I had time to replace one axle this weekend. I was going to do the tie rods first but I would then need an alignment and I just didn't have a lot of time.

So the axle change went as your would expect. The last time I changed my axles I noticed that when I put the axle nut on it really stretched the axle out more than I thought it should. However it has done that everytime with every axle. And I have changed this axle out at least 4-6 different times I've the past 14 years.
But. When I put the DSS axle on I noticed immediately it seemed longer. The boots don't look as stretched and it didn't seem like I was pulling the axle through the hub. This is the best way to describe how it seemed putting on the advance auto axles.
Put the car back together and I didn't get to drive it much till this morning.

Today's drive in I could feel a vibration but it is at least cut in half. Keep in mind I only changed one axle. My thinking is that when I get time to change the other it will be fixed.

This leads me to think that any variable by speed vibration you have in you car would be tires or axles. They both turn and rotate.

I have high hopes that this problem will be solved once I change the other axle.

Steve

On another note. I changed the inner tie rods last year. I used some from the local parts store with a lifetime warranty. I then changed the strut rod bushings to poly energy suspension bushings. Now the inner tie rod is worn . I am wondering if the poly bushings put more stress on the tie rods since they are harder.

[marcusv8thunder]

Good luck!

I had this issue with mine, i had some badly balanced wheels, but didnt know it was that, had the steering wheel shakes at 60-75mph.

But i left it too long, and then i changed to my winter wheels,OEM alloys, (which id drove on my other cb and were fine) and the vibration was still there.

What had happened was the constant wobbling of the wheels fatigued the inner tie rods, which made them bad, and thus created play, which created wobble. So the same problem morphed into a different part.

[Stoner51]

So. I have replaced both axles with DSS level 0 axles.

The vibration is now gone.

This kind of pisses me off. I have replaced the axles at least 4-6 times. I didn't really count but it was quite a few times. Once I changed them 2 times in a month.

Everytime I got the advance axles they looked short to me. When I would tighten the axle nut I could see the joints expanding, more than I thought they should have. I almost bought some DSS prelude axles bc I knew they were a little bit longer and thought my problem was the axles were too short. But I listened to everybody and didn't.

Now the price of the advance axle was $75 the price of the DSS axle was $140.

The car now drives much tighter and there is no longer a vibration. Its hard to explain. Trying to save a few dollars didn't pay off this time.

The older I get the more I want things to work the first time not the 5th time. All the return trips and other parts I replaced thinking it was something else is way more than the $65 diff between the two axles.

In the end I think speed dependent vibration is caused from some sort of rotation malalignment. IE tire out of balance, or bad axle. Could even possibly be a wheel bearing(I think).

steve

[cb7 calling]

I'm glad to hear your car is not shaking anymore. Let us know if it comes back after the axles wear a little. Mine has stopped shaking temporarily after a new part goes on then the devil returns every time. My shake sure could be an axle though. I would spend 150 right now and put it on in the rain if I knew it could work.

[Stoner51]

Still no vibration. I haven't done the tie rod ends yet. Its a little cold or wet. Or I just don't feel like it.

But the car is still vibration free.

steve

[Stoner51]

UPDATE

I drove the car 12hrs to chicago and 12hrs back home. Had the same shitty vibration I had at the start of this post. vibaration was bad around 73 cleared up around 78.

I had recently taken the car back to the alignment shop because when I changed the oil before the trip the tires looked like they were wearing unevenly. So the rechecked it and said it was off a bit. I didn't really expect them to admit fault.

However IT still shakes too bad for me and make the car not fun to drive.

So today I jacked it up did the ball joints and tie rod check moving the wheel. Nothing.
I had also noticed a clunk. Single clunk when starting from a stop. So I looked at the Radius rod bushing. It was loose on both sides. I tightened it up and went for a drive and the vibration seems down significantly.

On a side note my beck arnley driver side mount hasn't held up as well as I would have liked. So I ordered and anchor mount. My problem with all these driver side mounts is they don't seem to support the weight of the engine. Eventually It looks like the engine starts to sag some. I am sure this somehow effects the front axle.

I will post some pics of what I am talking about hopefully tomorrow.

steve

[cb7 calling]

This is a bummer, I had hope for the axles being the problem. I am contemplating an h22 swap as there is one for sale local to me. I just cant put that effort into a car that shakes like an alcoholic at church on sunday.

Its like there has to be something in the frame that wears out like where the front cross member meets the subframe or the whole subframe starts shaking causing the radius rods to wiggle the suspension.

Bummer

[cb9love]

Have either cb7calling or stoner51 replaced the bearings in your intermediate shaft?
When i took my intermediate shaft of for my motor swap i noticed a click click click when i spun it around by hand so i replaced it.
It appears to be the only thing you guys haven't tried.
My chassis is pushing 300k and drives smooth at all speeds(minus vibration from solid mounts)

[Stoner51]

No I haven't replaced that bearing. I do have it though. Just too lazy to take it off and do it. That is my next step.


This is a pick of the mount. Notice how the one on the right allows the engine to sit lower. I can't help but think this will throw things off some.

[IMG][/IMG]

After tightening up the radius rods and replacing the driver side mount I have very little vibration. But not perfect. Which is what I am trying to get.

[cb7 calling]

Yes I did, It did literally nothing for my shakes, I believe It can't make the car shake either as mine was so bad I could hear it. It fell apart upon removal and still made no differene with a new one.

edit* Steve, be sure that two of the three bolts for your intermediate shaft are the sleeve style and in the correct holes. They make it line up with where the shaft should be. It seems to me when swaps are done sometimes any old bolt is put back in the intermediate shaft which allows for it to be moved out of alignment with the cv a little bit.

To cb9 love when I say I have replaced everything I mean up to 4 times with parts like ball joints axles rotors and everything. This is why they call it death wobble. I am considering pulling my motor and interior and seam welding the whole car. Its this or buy another one and junk this chassis.

[Stoner51]

I'll look at the bolts hopefully this weekend.

I'm leaning more towards the mount causing the engine to drop some. Then the axles aren't lined up like they are supposed to and over time the axles start to wear causing the vibration.

But I'm like you I'm about tired or just replacing shit. And I have replaced everything numerous times. And it still seems to come back.

steve

[Domesticated]

You have high R1 on your tires. Go get them roadforced on a Hunter machine. Tell them to put a mark on the inside of the tire where the high spot is and write the number next to it. Report back here what the numbers are and I'll tell you how to get rid of the vibrations.

[Domesticated]

Also have then write the R2.