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H22 has been sitting for 2.5 years... What's the safest way to get it running again?

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    H22 has been sitting for 2.5 years... What's the safest way to get it running again?

    As the title says... My H22 has been off the road since September 2008.
    I plan on getting it running in the next few days, but I know starting a motor that has had that much time to sit can be tricky. I don't want dry pistons to tear up the sleeves! What's the best way to keep this from happening? I've been told to put a bit of oil in the spark plug holes, and pour some over the cams. Then turn it a few times by hand. That makes sense, but I want to double check before I do it... Any specific details would be greatly appreciated!

    I know the gas is probably old... hopefully it'll be good enough to get the car running. I'll dump some octane booster in there, and drive it very carefully to the gas station.


    Is there anything else I should be concerned about?
    The clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and hydraulics are all brand new. The ECU is a chipped P28, currently running a random basemap (I have a custom tune that requires a new o2 sensor...) The ignition components were all in good working order when the car was taken off the road.
    The battery is an Optima Red Top, so I'm HOPING that it can be recharged.


    I've started the engine after extended periods of inactivity, but never anything this long. I don't want to do any damage! Please, anyone who knows their stuff... treat me like a noob. I don't mind reading instructions as if I were completely clueless... It's better than missing something that I SHOULD know!







    #2
    I've been told to put a bit of oil in the spark plug holes, and pour some over the cams. Then turn it a few times by hand. That makes sense, but I want to double check before I do it... Any specific details would be greatly appreciated!
    This part I totally agree with for a car that has been sitting for 2.5 years. I don't think I would do it any other way. Just expect a some smoke from the exhaust since your adding a lil oil to the cylinders.

    Now as far as the fuel concern goes, I would syphon out as much as possible, drop in 2 bottles of dry gas. Go to the nearest gas station with a gas can (at least a 2 gallon can) and fill it with the highest octane they have (91-93 octane), drop it in the tank and start the car. In addition I would probably change out the fuel filter and drain the fuel lines too in order to get as much of the old fuel out, just don't forget to cycle the ignition a couple of time in order to prime the lines and injectors again.
    Last edited by 4U2H8ME; 03-22-2011, 04:20 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Instead of pouring oil in the spark plug holes, why not pull your plug wires and crank it? That way your oil is ran through your motor.

      Or even remove the ECU fuse in engine bay fuse box, then crank the motor over. Keep cranking until the oil psi light on instrument panel turns off. Reinstall the fuse and start it up.

      1999 BMW M3
      2001 Honda CR-V SE RT4WD
      2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71
      2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650

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        #4
        Throw in some good gas and octane booster. Then disconnect the resistor box or pull the ecu fuse and crank the engine over for a bit to get the oil everywhere it needs to be. Then conncect back the resisotor box or ecu fuse and check for fuel leaks. If none, start it up and check for coolant leaks.

        Comment


          #5
          Would 2.5 year old 93 octane gas have degraded that much? I've actually started it, and drove it normally, on year-old gas the last time it sat.

          I'll have to see how much gas is in there. The last time I parked it, it was intentional. This time, the throwout bearing seized unexpectedly, frying everything clutch-related. I WAS driving on it for 5 hours, so with any luck the tank is already pretty low.

          If I'm 1/3 of a tank or lower, would you think a bottle of octane booster and a few gallons of 93 octane be enough to get it going without trouble?






          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bruno8747 View Post
            Throw in some good gas and octane booster. Then disconnect the resistor box or pull the ecu fuse and crank the engine over for a bit to get the oil everywhere it needs to be. Then conncect back the resisotor box or ecu fuse and check for fuel leaks. If none, start it up and check for coolant leaks.
            Would I need to crank it by hand? Cranking it by the starter seems rather harsh, if everything is dry in there...

            I also turned the crank by hand a few times when I was installing the clutch. I believe I did the stupid thing of turning it in both directions... Would this have caused any issues? Perhaps with the timing belt tension?


            Yes, I'm approaching this as a TOTAL noob. Not assuming that I know a single thing...







            And bruno, that map I'm running is still the one you burned for me at that meet in New Brunswick... I believe I still owe you a blank chip for it (I have one sitting here somewhere...) Do you know if it bypasses the o2 sensor or not?






            Comment


              #7
              Here's a lil info I got directly from Honda's website in regards to fuel deterioration you might want to read up on.

              http://engines.honda.com/parts-and-s...ecommendations

              Comment


                #8
                the piston heads are dished, so if you just drop oil through the spark plug hole it will not necessarily get into the gap along the edges. for this reason, i usually use PB Blaster with the red straw pointed at an angle. that shit creeps up walls and not only lubes like oil would, but also breaks down rust - exactly what you want.

                you may want to take a look at the timing belt, it might have a set-in bend from sitting so long. this will give you an opportunity to dump some oil over the valvetrain under the valve cover. cranking it over a few times by hand will let you inspect the whole belt, and also let you work in the engine without going crazy with the starter. obviously this will be easier with the spark plugs removed, and turning it backwards in the past will not have harmed anything.

                youll likely find some seals leaking (oil pan, etc) so youll have to take those as you go, but otherwise just getting it started look online for better information as far as handling the fuel lines (i dont think itll have a problem, really..) but a can of DryGas may be all you need (octane booster isnt necessary). if it runs crappy (it will from the Blaster anyway) drain it (tank has a drain plug) then put some fresh gas. Its only 1 tank, itll probably burn no problem... then just check all fluids and crank that bitch.

                once its running with good oil pressure, i would do a complete seafoam treatment (still using the old spark plugs) - some in the gas tank, some in the oil. then do the standard process of running it through the intake manifold, and drive it around on the highway for a bit. then replace the spark plugs and do an oil change and it should be running nicely. obviously things that can corrode from sitting (like the terminals inside the distributor cap) you may have to end up replacing some of the ignition / tuneup related parts.

                p.s. im going to be doing the same thing for my coupe, since i think its going on at least 2 years that its been sitting.
                Last edited by cp[mike]; 03-22-2011, 06:01 PM.


                - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                Current cars:
                - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                  Would I need to crank it by hand? Cranking it by the starter seems rather harsh, if everything is dry in there...

                  I also turned the crank by hand a few times when I was installing the clutch. I believe I did the stupid thing of turning it in both directions... Would this have caused any issues? Perhaps with the timing belt tension?


                  Yes, I'm approaching this as a TOTAL noob. Not assuming that I know a single thing...







                  And bruno, that map I'm running is still the one you burned for me at that meet in New Brunswick... I believe I still owe you a blank chip for it (I have one sitting here somewhere...) Do you know if it bypasses the o2 sensor or not?
                  It should have been disabled. I cant remember if it was disababled when I burned it.

                  To tell u the truth, I've started and ran f22 engine before with gas thats been sitting for over 3 years. No issues at all. Just turned key and go. So I think you will be ok

                  Comment


                    #10
                    My f20a that's in my sedan now has sat for a year and some months.

                    What I did was remove the plugs, and spun the crank with a ratchet, and it spun freely with ease, tellin me the motor is not seized, it sat in snow, rain, etc, it was covered pretty good.

                    I checked my tb also even tho the timin case was on.

                    Started rite up.
                    **Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**

                    **Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
                    Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread

                    '90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
                    Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICE

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Ah yes.. alot of the n.e. crew has been having there cbs parked for some odd years.. last time I drove my coupe was November of 2008. So im going to have to do all this hopefully this summer. I want to drive it again lol

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by cp[mike] View Post
                        the piston heads are dished, so if you just drop oil through the spark plug hole it will not necessarily get into the gap along the edges. for this reason, i usually use PB Blaster with the red straw pointed at an angle. that shit creeps up walls and not only lubes like oil would, but also breaks down rust - exactly what you want.

                        you may want to take a look at the timing belt, it might have a set-in bend from sitting so long. this will give you an opportunity to dump some oil over the valvetrain under the valve cover. cranking it over a few times by hand will let you inspect the whole belt, and also let you work in the engine without going crazy with the starter. obviously this will be easier with the spark plugs removed, and turning it backwards in the past will not have harmed anything.

                        youll likely find some seals leaking (oil pan, etc) so youll have to take those as you go, but otherwise just getting it started look online for better information as far as handling the fuel lines i dont think itll have a problem, really.. but a can of DryGas may be all you need (octane booster isnt necessary). if it runs crappy (it will from the Blaster anyway) drain it (tank has a drain plug) then put some fresh gas. Its only 1 tank, itll probably burn no problem... then just check all fluids and crank that bitch.

                        once its running with good oil pressure, i would do a complete seafoam treatment (still using the old spark plugs) - some in the gas tank, some in the oil. then do the standard process of running it through the intake manifold, and drive it around on the highway for a bit. then replace the spark plugs and do an oil change and it should be running nicely. obviously things that can corrode from sitting (like the terminals inside the distributor cap) you may have to end up replacing some of the ignition / tuneup related parts.

                        p.s. im going to be doing the same thing for my coupe, since i think its going on at least 2 years that its been sitting.
                        I agree with this guy 100% Deev. I made everything he said bold and bigger that was really important-in my opinion.

                        Sounds like this guy knows his stuff. The other comments, I wouldnt really take to heart...

                        Worst case scenario youve got to drain the old gas and replace, but the filter/lines should be just fine. If they are not, its not related to your car sitting. If theres build up in the lines/filter, it was there before the car was parked.

                        Follow these guidelines, you will be just fine.

                        Nice to see you getting her back on the road, its always a great feeling!!
                        Originally posted by wed3k
                        im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The ignition coil usually dies if left sitting used for years. Had a Civic with that problem, been sitting in a guys yard for 4 years. Swapped it out with an Accord coil that was sitting here, started right up.
                          1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

                          1986 Chevrolet C10|5.3L|SM465|Shortbed|Custom Deluxe

                          1983 Malibu Wagon|TPI 305|T5 5 speed|3.73 non-posi


                          1992 Accord Wagon (RETIRED)

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                            #14
                            do you guys have some kind of spray thats called something like Engine Start? we have it here just to help with the starting process spray through the throttle body and even get a mate to turn the car over while you spray it in.
                            other than that expect to have gaskets blow like the head gasket and also oil seals so may be getting a can of gas would be a better solution to driving it to a gas station for now till you have had it running for a bit and made sure things arnt falling apart.

                            my car was sitting for 3 weeks while having body work done and the only driving done was between the different workshops at the panel beaters and werd things started to happen like leaking coolant where it was fine before it sat for the 3 weeks and i suspect it was leaking through the head gasket as there was alot of white smoke coming out the exhaust when i got it back BUT after running it for abit and taking it for a drive it settled down and stopped leaking lol. something to do with the carbon filling up gaps in the head gasket near the cylinders had degraded and running it again re sealed it lol....WEIRD i know


                            “I’d rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don’t let someone else write the book.”
                            — Mighty Car Mods

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                              #15
                              Don't even bother with the gas bs.

                              Take a fuel can to the station, get good gas, drain the crap out and refill with new fresh fuel....itll save you a few bucks and you can't go wrong.

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