Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

h22 problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    h22 problem

    ok i was driveing home started to turn then my car lost power and started to shake and sputter then turn off its getting fuel and spark all the timing marks are aline only way to get it started is at full throttle and only reves to like 1500 at full throttle but here is the weried thing my t/b is blowing air out of it

    i have a h22a4 in a 91 accord any help would be great car ran good for 2 years no problems at all but this 1 one

    #2
    WHAT?

    BB6->http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=200445<Summer Lover
    BD6->http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=194262<Dailey/Future AutoX
    Mazda 6s->http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201313<Wifes
    CB7->http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=189108<Sold

    Comment


      #3
      If your throttle body is blowing air out of it. I would say that ether your timing is off or your intake valves are bent/out of adjustment.
      MR Thread
      GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

      by Chappy, on Flickr

      Comment


        #4
        thats what i thought but i did a compresson test its 230 to 235 across with a bent valve your compresson sould be messed up

        Comment


          #5
          could it be a dissy problem could a dissy go crazzy

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by david17 View Post
            that's what i thought but i did a compression test its 230 to 235 across with a bent valve your compression should be messed up
            This is true......

            Originally posted by david17 View Post
            could it be a distributor problem could a distributor go crazy
            It sure can.... there are tests in the Honda Accord manual for testing the coil and the ignitor as well as the TDC/CKP and CYP sensors. However, in regards to the sensors. There is usually an accompanying CEL code.

            Is your check engine light on?
            MR Thread
            GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

            by Chappy, on Flickr

            Comment


              #7
              no engine light no code

              Comment


                #8
                '96 h22a owner in a 90cb coupe

                had all the same symptoms however not as severe, seemed like electrical timing issue right? its not i bet one or more of your valves is not "moving"

                source of my theory: in the middle of rebuilding, opened her up everything in decent shape except ONE exhaust valve was perfectly clean no black build up from opening and closing.

                things i did that didnt solve problem b4 I rebuilt
                New Dizzy
                check timing x2
                check compression x2
                check wires/plugs x1million
                cleaned entire intake mani
                replaced oem ecu w/ chipped ecu (only thing that helped a lil)
                checked fuel pressure @ fuel filter

                hope this helps man godspeed

                Comment


                  #9
                  I took off valve cover turn over everthing is moveing

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Spell check, man... it's REALLY hard to understand what you're saying when 75% of your words are horribly misspelled. Firefox has a built-in spell check. You'll get more help if people can understand you better.


                    Anyway, did you JUST remove the valve cover? If so, how did you check the timing marks? Your symptoms do sound a bit like your timing belt skipped a tooth.

                    It COULD be a distributor issue. The fact that the car needs to be at WOT to start has me wondering about that, though. If it was a dizzy issue, it wouldn't really matter if you had the throttle open more or less...

                    What ECU are you running? Stock P13?

                    Do you have any local friends with an H22? I know there are a number in FL. It would make things really easy to meet up with one of them and swap in their dizzy and/or ECU. If the problem persists, you can rule out those parts.

                    Just to be sure... does your CEL bulb work? I've seen a few people in the past that insisted they didn't have a CEL, and it was because the bulb had blown. They were actually throwing multiple codes!






                    Comment


                      #11
                      My cheak engine light comes on when i first turn the key on. When i do the jumper nothing comes on or flashes

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Since you know you have compression.

                        STEP 1
                        is it still jetting fuel?
                        Simple test: Remove 1 spark plug, crank engine, do you smell gas/see it spray out of the plug orfice? If yes then procede to next cyln.

                        STEP 2
                        Is there still spark?
                        put a spark plug in a plug wire. touch the threads of the plug to any metal on the engine bay, crank the engine, you should clearly see the spark(and hear it), if so check all wires to ensure each plug is getting spark.

                        Check that the rotor inside the distributor is secure, and is not connected to a broken camshaft. A friend of mine had similar problems with his car when his camshaft's endpiece broke on one side.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by david17 View Post
                          My cheak engine light comes on when i first turn the key on. When i do the jumper nothing comes on or flashes
                          Ok, good. As long as it comes on when you turn the key, then we know the bulb works. Still look into trying a different ECU. Even if it's a PT3/PT6 from the F22A (just don't drive it hard... but it'll run the H22 well enough for careful driving.)






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok got new dizzy and a used pt3 going to try tomorrow

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I hade the exact same problem as you. When my car dis this. I changed everything, cap rotor wires plugs. We notices in the shop when the battery was connected to a booster with car running. The problem went away. I replaced my alternator and same problem, so i started checking voltage and notice it was 14 at the alternator, 10 at the battery. It was a weak connection between the alternator and the fuse box, which then goes to the battery. When replaced the car ran fine. Later on i had same symptoma again, but it was the fuel pressure regulator.

                              The whole thing is with the alternator was that the computer was not getting sufficient current to operate, which threw off the fuel mixture causing it to backfire
                              Everyday is one day closer to completing my cb7 <3

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X