Swap complete, some bugs. help

[Michalob]

So I finally got my engine and running. went through complete hell none the less. no compression at first, 3 valves stuck, 2nd gear in tranny was shot, injectors were toast. yeah. was not good swap.

but as i said, here i am so far. i would like to describe my situation and the things so far to help come to a conclusion on what it may be.

Symptoms - Car runs,
idle is high at times, (roughly 1500+ and seems to fix itself even after idle adjust)
bogs down a bit, vtec kicks in and moves quite well. still think it should have more balls.



things that i had to do that had to fix due to broken parts off new engine -
got new injectors (accel 370 cc) most likely the problem and will prolly be changed to normal 310cc stock.

black box (IAB box?) underneath right side of intake manifold for the IAB was damaged, had to use the accord one and im just not sure if its correctly hooked up. just changed things out on the quick run an it seems to run much better.

possible mix up of sensors between the IAT (intake air temp) and i IAB box sensor?

those are the possible things i can say are the problem. im just curious if i should worry about the injectors? they putting out wayy to much fuel to run efficent? i dunno. vacuum hoses are always a pain? help a guy out if ya could. thanks guys.

[h22sparkle]

So I finally got my engine and running. went through complete hell none the less. no compression at first, 3 valves stuck, 2nd gear in tranny was shot, injectors were toast. yeah. was not good swap.

but as i said, here i am so far. i would like to describe my situation and the things so far to help come to a conclusion on what it may be.

Symptoms - Car runs,
idle is high at times, (roughly 1500+ and seems to fix itself even after idle adjust)
bogs down a bit, vtec kicks in and moves quite well. still think it should have more balls.



things that i had to do that had to fix due to broken parts off new engine -
got new injectors (accel 370 cc) most likely the problem and will prolly be changed to normal 310cc stock.

black box (IAB box?) underneath right side of intake manifold for the IAB was damaged, had to use the accord one and im just not sure if its correctly hooked up. just changed things out on the quick run an it seems to run much better.

possible mix up of sensors between the IAT (intake air temp) and i IAB box sensor?

those are the possible things i can say are the problem. im just curious if i should worry about the injectors? they putting out wayy to much fuel to run efficent? i dunno. vacuum hoses are always a pain? help a guy out if ya could. thanks guys.

what kinda motor if its an h22 i think i can help gearspeedracing can help you wth your tranmission i wouldnt send it anywhere else. The high idle sounds like a problem with a vacuum leak and whatnot. the iab box most of the time comes damaged not to worry if you can find a used one of if its not too damaged you can repair it yourself with jbweld. its possible to mix up those sensors yes but just be careful when you wire it thats all. if the engine is an h22 then the injectors should be 345cc's for an obd1 stock Btw what ecu are you running.

[Michalob]

what kinda motor if its an h22 i think i can help gearspeedracing can help you wth your tranmission i wouldnt send it anywhere else. The high idle sounds like a problem with a vacuum leak and whatnot. the iab box most of the time comes damaged not to worry if you can find a used one of if its not too damaged you can repair it yourself with jbweld. its possible to mix up those sensors yes but just be careful when you wire it thats all. if the engine is an h22 then the injectors should be 345cc's for an obd1 stock Btw what ecu are you running.

yeah its a h22a (jdm engine). the ecu is a p13 by the way. the only mix up on the vacuum is that i may have had that black box and the IAB messed up with vacuum lines. the IAB (saucer looking thing is now conencted directly to the manifold with a vacuum line now) and the black box has a line connecting to rear of the manifold. needless to say the 2 connections on the black box linked the way it was on the accord. i just did that not to long ago and it made my car run much better.

and the injectors supposibly are 310, unless jdm engines are 345... just not sure about it.

[h22sparkle]

yeah its a h22a (jdm engine). the ecu is a p13 by the way. the only mix up on the vacuum is that i may have had that black box and the IAB messed up with vacuum lines. the IAB (saucer looking thing is now conencted directly to the manifold with a vacuum line now) and the black box has a line connecting to rear of the manifold. needless to say the 2 connections on the black box linked the way it was on the accord. i just did that not to long ago and it made my car run much better.

and the injectors supposibly are 310, unless jdm engines are 345... just not sure about it.

the jdm injectors are 345cc's did the injectors come with that motor or did you buy them off someone else orrrr...what? it seems that your doing everything the right way so far so good.

[Michalob]

the jdm injectors are 345cc's did the injectors come with that motor or did you buy them off someone else orrrr...what? it seems that your doing everything the right way so far so good.

injectors came with the engine, but they were bad. they didnt even think about keeping the engine going when in the fuel rail... hmm 345 cc's. i dont think 25 cc would bog it. its weird. at times it runs like great, then it gets that bog. i alos got a few sensors i want to look at tommorrow that im hoping may be it. Also tommorrow im goign to put in my MSD coil to hope for some more spark. that may burn up that fuel a bit more efficently.

[h22sparkle]

injectors came with the engine, but they were bad. they didnt even think about keeping the engine going when in the fuel rail... hmm 345 cc's. i dont think 25 cc would bog it. its weird. at times it runs like great, then it gets that bog. i alos got a few sensors i want to look at tommorrow that im hoping may be it. Also tommorrow im goign to put in my MSD coil to hope for some more spark. that may burn up that fuel a bit more efficently.

no try getting the car running right before you add any upgrades to it because that would only make the situation worse. If they where bad why didnt you get another set from the place you got it from and tell them i need them replaced. sometimes the h22 does bog when you floor it because of the knock sensor sometimes acts up. whens the last time did you tune it up and are you shooting off any check engine lights?

[Michalob]

no try getting the car running right before you add any upgrades to it because that would only make the situation worse. If they where bad why didnt you get another set from the place you got it from and tell them i need them replaced. sometimes the h22 does bog when you floor it because of the knock sensor sometimes acts up. whens the last time did you tune it up and are you shooting off any check engine lights?

well just got the swap in, so yeah. couldnt really get a chance to tune it...lol no check engine lights either. and the only reason why i got those injectors is because i was in a rush. all other sets from alll the stores had to be ordered. woulda takin another week in which me and buddies shop dont have. kinda sucked. and right now im dealing with the place i got the motor from. hoping to get some form of refund for the hassle we've been through. the knock sensor better not be bad though. We just put a new one in because the sensor was broken. i dunno. good thoughts though for tommorrow. ill definatly check it to be sure. thanks

[v4lu3s]

One thing you have to remember is injector flow ratings change based on fuel pressure. 345 cc at 43 psi is what the h22 injectors flow at.....but the h22 FPR is not a 43 psi one, it is at 36-38 psi which means those 345cc injectors flow at 310cc.
if you used the accord fuel rail you are probably running accord fuel pressure with the 370cc injectors, meaning way too much fuel since the injectors are 25cc larger and running a lot mroe pressure than stock.

[Michalob]

One thing you have to remember is injector flow ratings change based on fuel pressure. 345 cc at 43 psi is what the h22 injectors flow at.....but the h22 FPR is not a 43 psi one, it is at 36-38 psi which means those 345cc injectors flow at 310cc.
if you used the accord fuel rail you are probably running accord fuel pressure with the 370cc injectors, meaning way too much fuel since the injectors are 25cc larger and running a lot mroe pressure than stock.

mmm. what should i do then. luckily i do have a fuel pressure regulator. is there and way i can tweak the pressure down or up to fix this problem?

[v4lu3s]

try lowering pressure to around 34 psi but dont go any lower. make sure when you set fuel pressure it is with the vacuum line disconnected as well.
if you go lower than 34 psi you may lose spray pattern and have issues again with fueling.

[Michalob]

mmm 34 psi with the line disconnected. thats pretty low, dont ya think? usually it shoots up a few more psi with the disconnected vacuum hose. but will try asap. after thinking about it a few more, i can see where your coming from. thanks for the input!

[timmy0tool]

the IAB vacuums shouldn't affect your car that much. it seems you connected it correctly. the nipple on the very back of the intake mani should go to box and the other end goes to the diaphram (space-ship looking thing). the IAB plug for the solenoid has a pink wire in to so don't mix that up with the intake temp sensor. as far as the fuel injectors go, i have no clue . good luck!

btw, i have high idle at times too. found out that the throttle body butterfly can stay a little open especially when warm under the hood. spray some lubricant on it and it should idle fine. i did not even adjust my idle screw after my swap.

[v4lu3s]

mmm 34 psi with the line disconnected. thats pretty low, dont ya think? usually it shoots up a few more psi with the disconnected vacuum hose. but will try asap. after thinking about it a few more, i can see where your coming from. thanks for the input!

34 psi is 2 psi below stock psi for the h22. I just would not go any lower.

[Michalob]

Well after a thorugh inspection. I noticed a difference between manifolds. there was a block off plate where the air boost valve/starting air valve is. not sure if thats the technical name for it, but thats what it says off the diagram i saw. i always wondered why the nipple on my intake had to be blocked off. but i installed the valve, connected the vacuum line to the air intake, and it ran much better.

i still do beleive i have to adjust the FPR, but as for now. the engine just keeps on pulling more and more with these tweaks. thanks guys!

[v4lu3s]

i take it you have a USDM H22 since the JDM one does not use or need it.