.::THE JDM F22B Swap Guide::.

[IBCNYA]

One other thing, is the p39 gonna be looking for a knock sensor signal...

[Jarrett]

The JDM F22B does not have a knock sensor.

The pulleys will work fine. They are just 1 rib thicker than the pulleys from an F22A. You'll need to buy belts from a '92-'96 Prelude Si/Si VTEC.

[IBCNYA]

The JDM F22B does not have a knock sensor.

The pulleys will work fine. They are just 1 rib thicker than the pulleys from an F22A. You'll need to buy belts from a '92-'96 Prelude Si/Si VTEC.

So all I need to do is pull the sohc, swap the mounts, harness, intermidoate shaft, egr, fuel rail my a4 exhaust manifold, tps, ecu, jump the coil, water neck on head, and use prelude accessory belts, and prelude power steering pressure house.this gonna be so easy. Got a estimated flywheel hp with full 2.5 exhaust and intake, with a4 manifold? Looks like the f22b manifold is the same cast type as the a6...

I also thought about spraying the valve seals with seafoam to soften them up some since I dont know how long the engines been sitting

[Jarrett]

The intake manifold should be most similar to the H23A1. Does the throttle body have the FITV underneath it? If so then that's essentially the H23A1 manifold.


And if your current car is a '90-'91 and the engine your swapping in is a JDM engine (it is) then why are you needing to do anything with the coil? You're going from internal to internal. The harnesses should plug right in.

[IBCNYA]

The intake manifold should be most similar to the H23A1. Does the throttle body have the FITV underneath it? If so then that's essentially the H23A1 manifold.


And if your current car is a '90-'91 and the engine your swapping in is a JDM engine (it is) then why are you needing to do anything with the coil? You're going from internal to internal. The harnesses should plug right in.

The intake does have the fitv under the throttle body. Yes my accord is a 92 ex model, we bought it for 200 with a blown engine, bought one from Beavers and dropped it in. The new engine was a f22a1, i swapped over the A6 intake manifold and sourced a f22a4 exhaust manifold. At the time the owner of the car, now my wife did not want to do any other prep work to the engine due to money and cost. The intake gasket was the only thing bought to do the swap. The car now has 323,000 miles on it, the trans is going and the replacement engine is taking a big crap, rod knock, oil consumption and valve seal issues.

The f22b is its replacement, im strongly considering doin some prep work to the new dohc but at the same time with the stuff done with the f22a's over the past few years considering swapping it, tearing the sohc down a rebuilding it to the gills slowly without rushing. Id rather not have to explain to my wife why i tore apart the dohc engine any futher.

The dohc tested good with the compression test on the floor and while there is some build up on the valve train components it is nominal, unlike the current sohc that looked burnt red when installed 3 years ago. I did spray the whole valve train down with seafoam yesterday to soften the valve seals and break down the old oil that has slightly varnished. The exhaust valves while black are not burnt or have build up on them, they will also get closed and seated lining the engine up tdc, then spraying seafoam in the port to get them as clean as i can. The same will follow with cylinders 2-3 after 1-4 are done. The installed will be next week so doing these procedures every day till then should clean it up some.

I am under the impression from searching that the bottom end is basically a sohc f22ax so does this mean the oil pump and front seal are from the sohc series to. Didnt see this info listed in the OP's post.

The engine came complete with the ecu and transmission for under 1k, main reason we got the setup is for the price, its not gonna be a racecar, she grannys the crap out of it so im not really worried about rod bearing issues. The accord tc will still shift it at the usual 6500 wot which she never hits half that anyways.

The block is tapped for the intermidiate shaft, the a4 exhaust manifold will fit without issues, have a h23 top end set for gaskets and seals. Really tempted to pull the head a have a valve job done then put the new seals in it, but that would lead to another overdrawn explantion as to why to the wife. The area under the timing belt covers is dry, no presence of oil at all, belts both look good, not dried out or cracked. When doing the compression test and pulling the plugs i noticed all the plugs had the same consistent color and burn to them.

The swap will be done next weekend. Any tips or tricks I come across such as belt numbers and part combinations ill be sure to note in this thread.

[Jarrett]

First, I wouldn't let the hassle of an explanation stop you from doing what's right with the cylinder head to prevent future issues. Take the head off and remove all the valve springs with a hammer and 10mm socket with extension, then remove the valves making sure you number them. Clean the head as best you can with it off the block and all the internals out. Then, I would recommend a resurface, but it may not be necessary. Either way, have a machine shop reinstall all the valves and valve springs for you with your new seals. I only say machine shop because otherwise you have the added expense of an $80 tool instead of their $25-35 fee.


This would also give you the chance to replace the headgasket on the F22B block. I don't recommend using the F22A1 block because those pistons have more dish to them to lower the compression ratio. The F22B is 9.3:1 whereas the F22A1 is 8.8:1. You're going to want those F22B pistons.

You should be perfectly fine running your new transmission on the old Accord TCU, especially if your wife drives like you say she does.

Also, when I clarified on the intake manifold bit I think I just misread what you were saying about the F22B and F22A6 manifold comparison. I thought you were comparing intake manifolds instead of exhaust manifolds. My bad.

[IBCNYA]

I do this stuff on a daily basis, have the spring tool, connections at machine shops, i can change the valve seals without pulling the head, really im not worried about it, gonna clean up the crankcase the same way by spraying it with seafoam, just gonna save my money to rebuild the sohc.

[IBCNYA]

Gonna go ahead and do the timing belt and water pump, correct me if ive got this wrong. '

1) gsr/2.5 caravan 126T belt with f22a water pump w/19T f22b gear on it
2) h23 127T timing belt with f22a 20T gear water pump
3) keep existing water pump and use GSR/2.5 caravan belt
4) do nothing and cross my fingers


If option 1 is my best route, never had to remove a gear from a honda waterpump, what am I looking at to do this, have pullers is that all it takes? What about pressing it back on?

[Father Time]

I ran my F22B DOHC w/ a stock F22A water pump and used a H23A timing belt. Was able to pick up the slack of the H23 timing belt with the tensioner. Ran it like that for 1.5years with no issue till I decided to build my old F22A and drop it in instead.

Just my .02

[ErMMaC]

I personally run my F22B head with a Gates T132 (which is the caravan belt) and used an OEM F22A pump and my swap has been running fine. The tensioners and everything were F22A as well. The belt fit like OEM I know the GSR belts fits too but super tight. The H23 as mentioned above works too but that one I heard has a lot slack and the tensioner is maxed out (this is only from what I have read, no experience with that belt).

This is just my opinion and what I know for sure, to keep adding to your search for information

[IBCNYA]

FWIW anyone doing any jdm swap at all should prep the engine before hand, by this I mean pull the oil pan, valve cover gasket, timing belt, flywheel if equipped and check for seeps or noticeable leaks.

Thankfully my oil pan bumped free with one blow of a wooden hammer handle, then something happen that blew my mind. The pan gasket pulled, not pryed off in one solid piece. Every honda engine ive ever done a pan gasket on the gasket has stuck and had to be worked off.

The pan and windage tray had cured or thicken oil sittin on or in them, the rods, caps and pistons are very clean looking. Not a single sign of bearing wear anywhere in the oil pan. The head using seafoam and a brush cleaned up past what expected, everything is the same silverish color now.

The engine overall is not bad its on the stand and will be recieving new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, timing belt, water pump, possibly valve seals, decided to order a prelude power steering pressure hose and run all the accessarys that came on the engine.

thanx guys....

[IBCNYA]

Little more on this swap with my experience..

The accords power steering hose from the resivoir to the pump needs to be replaced with bigger hose. The accord one is to small and will not fit over the Preludes hard line.

The accord a/c pressure fittings, The longer one with fit the Prelude a/c compressor, the shorter one will not.

To just remove the a/c and bypass use Belt number 5050370 from autozone. This is the Prelude S non-a/c belt.

On my swap I had to build a custom axle on the passenger side using the prelude inner cup and the outer cup and shaft from the accord. I do have a JDM prelude auto transmission if that makes a difference. I tried the accord axle three time before doing this. It was to short to stay seated in the transmission when tightening the axle nut it would pull it out of the diff. There was a 1/2 inch difference in length in the JDM inner axle cup and the accord one. Using the JDM one resolved my problem.

The three map sensor box lines run as normal, the map hose to the throttle body, the other two just behind the TB.

A4, A6 exhaust manifolds line up perfectly, the mounts are not issue either like noted.

Either the accord starter or the prelude one will work, tried both.

I did find I had to bend the throttle cable bracket slightly towards the throttle rotor as because the cable was maxed out and the throttle blade wasnt closing fully.

The Prelude power steering pressure line is not a direct fit, it has to bend gently rebent and massaged to follow a path around the rear lower sub frame with rubbing any thing, it takes time but is do-able.

Over all im content, the cars runs and shifts good. Can feel the Iabs working correctly.

[Apache]

Great write up and many thx to da CB7 members!!! Happy to say I completed my JDM F22B Swap and luv it....

[IBCNYA]

Bump for auto guys running a p39, the 94-95 P78 integra tcu works great with this, allows first to hit 40mph @ 7Krpm, a lot better than the stock tcu. Has lower part throttle shifts points similar to running th 94-95 accord tcu. The also pesky D4 light is blinking once again...

[GhostAccord]

What code(s) is the TCU throwing? Maybe the car likes the Integra TCU, but the TCU doesn't like being in the Accord chassis...

It could be something that is an easy electrical fix????? maybe a wire needs to be swapped or bypassed.