Crap load of white/greyish/blueish white smoke when i rev up

[SN2BH22CB7]

Do a leak down test. They are much more conclusive than a compression test.

Im not gonna comment...because ^ he already said what I was gonna say.

[Grumpys93]

What were the leakdown results? I pressurize it to 100 psi per cylinder. Every 1 psi = 1 %. You should have 0-5% loss per cylinder max, otherwise something is up and you have to locate where it is leaking by listen/observing certain areas.

I haven't done a leakdown yet. Due to transportation to get the test and money. I plan to pick one up this weekend. I may just end up replacing the headgasket just to get it out of the way

[HondaFan81]

I haven't done a leakdown yet. Due to transportation to get the test and money. I plan to pick one up this weekend. I may just end up replacing the headgasket just to get it out of the way

You may be wasting your time with thinking blown headgasket, that's why I said do the leakdown test first. Storytime...

Once was a 94 DX Accord and owner took it to 2 shops, they diagnosed with blown headgasket as it was blowing white thick smoke out exhaust and caramel color motor oil from getting coolant in it. I took on the job, found the original OEM headgasket was NOT blown, as much as we wanted to blame it on that replace and be done with the job, it was not. I don't do a half-a$$ job, so we pursued to the head. Pressure tested the coolant passages in the head, found that in cylinder # 1 had one casting pinhole over one of the exhaust valves, so that is how the coolant leaked into the combustion chamber and mixed with oil. So we slapped a good condition used head with a resurface job, new gaskets/seals and all was well. We flushed the motor out with one oil change, changed oil & filter again before handing it back to my friend.

So never assume, let the evidence tell you, it's like forensic science man. Assuming can lead to wasted money.

[Grumpys93]

You may be wasting your time with thinking blown headgasket, that's why I said do the leakdown test first. Storytime...

Once was a 94 DX Accord and owner took it to 2 shops, they diagnosed with blown headgasket as it was blowing white thick smoke out exhaust and caramel color motor oil from getting coolant in it. I took on the job, found the original OEM headgasket was NOT blown, as much as we wanted to blame it on that replace and be done with the job, it was not. I don't do a half-a$$ job, so we pursued to the head. Pressure tested the coolant passages in the head, found that in cylinder # 1 had one casting pinhole over one of the exhaust valves, so that is how the coolant leaked into the combustion chamber and mixed with oil. So we slapped a good condition used head with a resurface job, new gaskets/seals and all was well. We flushed the motor out with one oil change, changed oil & filter again before handing it back to my friend.

So never assume, let the evidence tell you, it's like forensic science man. Assuming can lead to wasted money.

Lol did they live happily ever after? Well i hope it is the head then cause i have 3 laying around ready to be thrown in. But i have to first get my hands on a leakdown tester. Where can i pick one of these up

[HondaFan81]

Any decent autoparts store should have one. Have you even checked?

One I used had one air-hose inlet and one outlet with 2 air psi gauges & one regulator. You should also have a short hose with air fitting on exposed end and O-ring fitting that screws into spark plug threads. Screw this hose into spark plug tube, leave exposed end sitting for now. Get cylinder 1 to top-dead center, otherwise the motor will spin over.

On the leakdown tester, you hook compressed air/shop air to inlet and one gauge should read whatever that shop air pressure is. Using regulator, dial it down to whatever pressure is needed to get the other "output gauge" to read 100 psi. So you're using the regulator/1st gauge to control the shop air, to get 100 psi to show on the "output/2nd gauge"...that is the pressure coming out the leakdown test output. After all this done, connect leakdown tester to air hose from cylinder # 1, that is at top-dead center. Wait a little bit to let cylinder pressurize and observe the "output gauge/2nd gauge" see how much drops off, it should level out somewhere. For every 1 psi lost, that is 1% leak rate loss. 0-5% max leak rate, anymore than 5% I've been told and you have problems. This is where you listen to certain areas of motor/exhaust to find where it is leaking.

You continue this process per cylinder at top-dead center for each of them before pressurizing them. Record your findings.

[Grumpys93]

Any decent autoparts store should have one. Have you even checked?

One I used had one air-hose inlet and one outlet with 2 air psi gauges & one regulator. You should also have a short hose with air fitting on exposed end and O-ring fitting that screws into spark plug threads. Screw this hose into spark plug tube, leave exposed end sitting for now. Get cylinder 1 to top-dead center, otherwise the motor will spin over.

On the leakdown tester, you hook compressed air/shop air to inlet and one gauge should read whatever that shop air pressure is. Using regulator, dial it down to whatever pressure is needed to get the other "output gauge" to read 100 psi. So you're using the regulator/1st gauge to control the shop air, to get 100 psi to show on the "output/2nd gauge"...that is the pressure coming out the leakdown test output. After all this done, connect leakdown tester to air hose from cylinder # 1, that is at top-dead center. Wait a little bit to let cylinder pressurize and observe the "output gauge/2nd gauge" see how much drops off, it should level out somewhere. For every 1 psi lost, that is 1% leak rate loss. 0-5% max leak rate, anymore than 5% I've been told and you have problems. This is where you listen to certain areas of motor/exhaust to find where it is leaking.

You continue this process per cylinder at top-dead center for each of them before pressurizing them. Record your findings.

damn i have to find someone who has air.

[HondaFan81]

If you plan to work on cars, great investment...air compressor & air tools.

[PR CB7]

i have air but live in o-town

[Grumpys93]

Update:

Figured out what was causing the car to smoke real bad.

After watching the smoke pour out i noticed it had a blue tint to it so i knew it was oil. So i then proceeded to start taking the head off. But when i removed the turbo i noticed oil was around the manifold. I then looked in the exhaust ports on cylinder 3 and found oil all over the place. So i then came to the conclusion that the seal blew allowing oil to get into the turbo which then started to coke and evenutally lead to it burn in the turbo and cause the smoke to pour out the exhaust. So i currently have the head off and luckly i have 2 other heads and am now putting a new one on. Car should be up and running tonight.

Thanks for all the help guys

[WiKKeDV16]

dirty ripper vids or ban.....

[HondaFan81]

Update:

Figured out what was causing the car to smoke real bad.

After watching the smoke pour out i noticed it had a blue tint to it so i knew it was oil. So i then proceeded to start taking the head off. But when i removed the turbo i noticed oil was around the manifold. I then looked in the exhaust ports on cylinder 3 and found oil all over the place. So i then came to the conclusion that the seal blew allowing oil to get into the turbo which then started to coke and evenutally lead to it burn in the turbo and cause the smoke to pour out the exhaust. So i currently have the head off and luckly i have 2 other heads and am now putting a new one on. Car should be up and running tonight.

Thanks for all the help guys

Excellent, so leaking valve stem seals. Nice. if you throw in another head, if they are old, replace the valve stem seals. I'd also check that the valves are sealing and you need to make sure the mating surface is flat. If need be, get it reconditioned at a machine shop (resurface, valve job, valve stem seals. You will be wasting money and time if this is the motor you're building up and expect to perform. If this is a temporary motor then nevermind.

Do it right now or pay later. You'll just be back to this same point.

[HondaFan81]

Sorry, been busy and didn't get a chance to call you back. Only reason I was on this forum last night was to upload photos of my interior, was on the phone with other calls. PM me if you can ask the question through that, I check it daily. Otherwise, I might give u a call tonight.

[Grumpys93]

Excellent, so leaking valve stem seals. Nice. if you throw in another head, if they are old, replace the valve stem seals. I'd also check that the valves are sealing and you need to make sure the mating surface is flat. If need be, get it reconditioned at a machine shop (resurface, valve job, valve stem seals. You will be wasting money and time if this is the motor you're building up and expect to perform. If this is a temporary motor then nevermind.

Do it right now or pay later. You'll just be back to this same point.

Sorry, been busy and didn't get a chance to call you back. Only reason I was on this forum last night was to upload photos of my interior, was on the phone with other calls. PM me if you can ask the question through that, I check it daily. Otherwise, I might give u a call tonight.

Ya this is a temp head this is the head we pulled off when i did the dohc head swap. So i know its in working condition. As for how long it will last that is unknown. But i am currently having the other head rebuilt as we speak. But that is going on the other block .

Its cool i just wanted to tell you the news lol. But ya if you still feel like calling me go for it i am usually up till about 2 am est time

[Grumpys93]

Update:
The car is running, smoke-free. I first primed the motor a couple of times to put oil in the head since it was a little dry and to build up pressure. I did this bout 3-4 times then cranked the car. I started to smoke again so i took it for a spin and it cleared out. I forgot to clean out the turbo so my guess is that it was burning off the oil that was still in the turbo. But it cleared out in less then a minute of driving. So car is running and running good. I ran into a small/big problem but can easily be fixed. And that is a really bad oil leak. I have an idea on where it is located. Since i only touched one oil fitting and didn't have an oil leak before. I am guessing that i did not tighten it all the way so i will go back and retighten and possibly put some of that tap on it. But all in all car is up and running and i will upload some pics of the new set-up asap

[WiKKeDV16]

wtf are my dirty ripper vids.....


dont make me come up there....