CEL issues

[Bruce Banner]

Here is the jist of it. I have a 93 LX Automatic, 222K Miles
Few months back I started the car, backed it out of the driveway and the CEL came up and the D4 light was blinking.
The light went away and never really came back.
Since last month I've been having Random CEL's, same thing, CEL pops up and D4 blink.
After that I would randomly get CEL's, no D4 light blink.
2 weeks ago I started the car in the morning and the car didn't want to start, I had to hold the crank for 4 seconds to get it to start.
This morning I go start the motor, it didn't want to start. I held the crank car tried to start and wouldn't.
I paused for 3 seconds and cranked it again, it started, BUT the rpms were unstable, 1500 and 1000, motor kept bouncing wanting to die.
Turned the car off, waited 5 seconds and cranked it again.
Started no CEL and drove fine.

So I know I have to pull the codes.
How do I decipher the codes? I read the sticky it said like long blink 10 short blink 1.
So if I see 4 long blinks and 2 short blinks does that mean 42?

Also aside from the codes, what could possibly be causing the issues?

TIA

[AccordReborn]

you have the right idea about how to read the codes. That would be the first thing that i would do. After that you might want to look into the main relay, that seems to be a common problem. there is a DIY on how to fix it.

[Bruce Banner]

I swapped out the main relay about 40K ago.

Also on the second start where the motor wanted to die repeatedly the red battery light went on too.
This bad starts seems to happen on my morning starts. The afternoon first starts of the day have been ok so far.

[Flatline]

it's not your relay for sure. your symptoms are the opposite. when it won't start, check for spark. It sounds like your igniter might be going bad.

[Bruce Banner]

By ignitor you mean distribution system? Distributor and cap I had replaced at 145K
I recently replaced spark plugs.
I got a deal on some autolite iridiums, normally I would stick to NGK coppers, but this time a set of iridiums costed me the same as a set of coppers so I decided to give it a try.
The first bad start a few weeks ago was on my old copper plugs, that was the crank where I held it and it did eventually start.
I'm gonna try to get the codes off the car today.

Some guy said when I see the blue connector there will be 4 holes and I shoudl put the paperclip in the 2 largest holes?

[visualpoet]

By igniter, he means part number 1:

[Bruce Banner]

Found it.
I got 6 short flashes, so this is supposed to be
6 ECT - water temperature sensor

Does that sound right to the issues I have been experiencing?

[Bruce Banner]

Should I buy OEM on this one or is there a better aftermarket brand for this?

[Bruce Banner]

Bought the OEM part.
How do I go about swapping it out?
And where is it exactly?
I took a pic is it the green plug on the right?

If so, should I expect coolant to spew out when I remove it?

[Losiracer2]

it still sounds like what I was experiencing w/ my CB. I could barely start it and had to hold the gas to keep it alive. My bad items were the main relay and the ignitor. Since your relay is newish, its prob. the ignitor.

As for that sensor, all you do is unscrew it. Do it when its bone cold, so no coolant gushes out under pressure. Some will come out regardless though, so just be ready w/ the other sensor and a rag.

[Bruce Banner]

I do suspect there to be another issue though.
I don't think this sensor would prompt the D4 light to blink.
Doesn't that mean tranny related issue as well, separate from the CEL?

[nine_deuce]

Yes, the transmission has a separate computer.

There is also another coolant temp sensor at the thermostat housing, just follow the lower radiator hose to the back of the motor. If I'm not mistaken, that one is the "ect"

[Bruce Banner]

it still sounds like what I was experiencing w/ my CB. I could barely start it and had to hold the gas to keep it alive. My bad items were the main relay and the ignitor. Since your relay is newish, its prob. the ignitor.

As for that sensor, all you do is unscrew it. Do it when its bone cold, so no coolant gushes out under pressure. Some will come out regardless though, so just be ready w/ the other sensor and a rag.

Gonna try to pop it out tomorrow.
Space under the dizzy looks tight, hoping I won't have to remove the dizzy to get to it

[Bruce Banner]

just gave it a go, looks like the dizzy cap might have to come out.
I like hondas, but their wire harnesses sometimes piss me off.
Kept squeezing the harness but couldn't pop the dam thing out.

[Losiracer2]

just gave it a go, looks like the dizzy cap might have to come out.
I like hondas, but their wire harnesses sometimes piss me off.
Kept squeezing the harness but couldn't pop the dam thing out.

you can get to the ignitor by just removing the cap and rotor, but you better be sure you have a good grip on those 2 phillips head screws that hold the ignitor in....don't want to strip them. If you can't remove them w/ the dizzy attached, then its only 3 12mm bolts to take it off. Just make sure you mark where the timing was set if you don't have a timing light.