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    New engine break-in method?

    okay when i finish my motor project which is the best way to break it in? do i take it easy? or run it hard? so all you engine builders out their give me some ideas. cuz this sounds legit http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    it mostly talks about motorcycles but he says its for all 4 stroke motors.

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    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=140230 <--MY ongoing ENGINE BUILD!..

    #2
    run it hard. just keep the rpms down under 5k. running it hard though is the only way to properly break the rings in. I also suggest getting some break in oil.

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      #3
      Originally posted by turbo90accord View Post
      run it hard. just keep the rpms down under 5k. running it hard though is the only way to properly break the rings in. I also suggest getting some break in oil.
      thanks thats what i was thinkin

      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=91030 <--MY RIDE!
      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=140230 <--MY ongoing ENGINE BUILD!..

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        #4
        Well i havent had to break in any engines myself but i have been in many cars my brother has built for work. He always takes it easy for the first 1000 miles. No reving above 3k and never turning the boost up. Even from the factory when you buy a car new they always say drive lightly for the first 1000 miles to break in the engine.

        I would not drive it hard. Things arent seated together properly and running it hard could break them. One of the engines my brother rebuilt, the guy who owned the car turned up the boost and drove it hard before it was broken in and blew a brand new engine.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
          Well i havent had to break in any engines myself but i have been in many cars my brother has built for work. He always takes it easy for the first 1000 miles. No reving above 3k and never turning the boost up. Even from the factory when you buy a car new they always say drive lightly for the first 1000 miles to break in the engine.

          I would not drive it hard. Things arent seated together properly and running it hard could break them. One of the engines my brother rebuilt, the guy who owned the car turned up the boost and drove it hard before it was broken in and blew a brand new engine.
          then something was wrong with that motor, you should read the link that i posted..

          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=91030 <--MY RIDE!
          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=140230 <--MY ongoing ENGINE BUILD!..

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            #6
            I read that mototune article a few years back when I started my build. I asked a local engine builder/dyno tech about breaking my engine in the way that is described in that article. He said he does it that way on his dyno with all of his motors. If he trusts his engines on it I figure I'll trust it as well.
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              #7
              this is how i have always broke my motors in


              remove all spark plugs, remove ecu fuse, crank until oil pressure light goes

              out (it takes awhile).

              prime fuel system 3 times and check for leaks.

              when u start the car check timing to be sure the distributor is correct and

              check for leaks again.

              when i broke my motor in i used rotella t oil with lucas break-in oil

              addicitive(contains zinc) it is good(high stress oil properties) for seating the rings against the walls
              ''COUPE''




              ''WAGON''

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                #8
                then go to a low traffic road and do a couple 3rd gear pull about half throttle up to about 4k rpms
                let the motor slow itself down in gear then do another couple pulls this way but raising the amount of throttle each time .
                then go to 4th and same process
                when you get to about 15 to 25 miles go and change your oil and filter
                ''COUPE''




                ''WAGON''

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                  #9
                  after first oil change do not ride at constant speed always vary your speed by about 10mph try to stay in 3rd or 4th so you can put a good load on the rings
                  ''COUPE''




                  ''WAGON''

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by motobmx105 View Post
                    then something was wrong with that motor, you should read the link that i posted..
                    Nothing was wrong its just the dumbass drove it too hard before it was broken in. They rebuilt it again ( mind you this car had 3000 miles on it ) and my brother personally broke it in and its still running just fine 6 months later.

                    I dont like what that article had to say. I think you take it easy untill the motor is all worn in.
                    Last edited by Tippey764; 04-16-2010, 10:02 PM.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post

                      I dont like what that article had to say. I think you take it easy untill the motor is all worn in.
                      if you take it easy the rings never fully seat properly and you just end up glazing the cylinder walls. The point of driving it hard is to force the rings outward on compression as well as high vacuum. that doesnt occur if you just take it easy and the rings just ride on the hone job until they glaze over netting compression losses and other issues. Talk to the people that build real motors... They all drive the shit out of them to break them in, and their motors are the ones that last the longest.

                      My Wiretuck/ Insane engine bay
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                      11.86@120mph T66 turbo 612hp F22A
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                      People can hate all they want, my f22 is faster than yours.
                      I have literally been on this site for 10 years, I know what i am talking about!
                      John 10:18 "No one takes it from me, but I lay it down of my own accord. I have authority to lay it down and authority to take it up again. "

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                        #12
                        high gear, high loads.

                        NOO cruising. either strong on the gas, or not on the gas at all. keep it in conservative rpms at all times (<4k-5k). change oil after first full ride, then 500 miles after that, then 1000 after THAT, and good to go from there

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                          #13
                          I was always told to let the motor warm up about half way and before moving the car at all and for the first 5 or 10 miles to stay below 3k rpms. After about to miles keep in in 3rd and keep the rpms varied between 3k-5k letting the motor slow itself down till you get to about 30 miles the do it in 4th staying between 4k and 6k till about 50 miles and for the next 50 to drive it throughout the entire rpm range pretty hard. The person who told me this has built many motors and ive never seen any of his motors blow up or have any major problems. But everyone has there own ways.
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                            #14
                            Originally posted by turbo90accord View Post
                            if you take it easy the rings never fully seat properly and you just end up glazing the cylinder walls. The point of driving it hard is to force the rings outward on compression as well as high vacuum. that doesnt occur if you just take it easy and the rings just ride on the hone job until they glaze over netting compression losses and other issues. Talk to the people that build real motors... They all drive the shit out of them to break them in, and their motors are the ones that last the longest.
                            depends on which stone they use to finish. if you cant drive the car on the street then you have to break it in on the dyno or in the shop.
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                              #15
                              Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                              depends on which stone they use to finish. if you cant drive the car on the street then you have to break it in on the dyno or in the shop.
                              I personally dont use stones, reason being that stones can glide over grooves or valleys in cylinder walls. I use a ball hone which allows for the balls to flex into those valleys. Most pro-mod and top fuel guys use ball hones for this same reason.

                              My Wiretuck/ Insane engine bay
                              member ride thread
                              11.86@120mph T66 turbo 612hp F22A
                              DIVULGE MOTORSPORTS
                              People can hate all they want, my f22 is faster than yours.
                              I have literally been on this site for 10 years, I know what i am talking about!
                              John 10:18 "No one takes it from me, but I lay it down of my own accord. I have authority to lay it down and authority to take it up again. "

                              Comment

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