Crack in Exhaust Manifold F22A1

[Losiracer2]

I found this recently on my fixer upper 91 CB7. It looks as though there's a crack between cyl 3 and 4 on the exhaust manifold. I didn't think it was that bad but now I'm thinking its causing my poor acceleration and performance. It seems as though the car has no power when you initially step on the gas and bogs down, but then it finally picks up at about 3k RPM.

Since this crack is before the o2 sensor, will this cause bad mileage and driveability? I can hear exhaust gases sputtering out of there behind the heatshield.

I do have an 92-96 H22 2-1 aftermarket downpipe thats in okish shape, would an A4 manifold bolt right up to that?

I'm trying to keep costs as economical as possible since the whole purpose of buying this car was to flip it for a profit, but I want to make it run normally.

[GeoffM]

I can't condone it but.... JB Weld.

The "What have you fixed with JB weld" Thread in OT. Somebody JB welded a manifold and it held.

[Accrdwgnguy]

Generic 4-2-1 Headers off ebay work fine and are around $50 shipped.

Welding or JB welding a cracked exhaust manifold usually results in it just cracking further, never really seen anyone have much success in this dept.

[accordztech]

what you should do is drill a little bit at the end of the crack to stop it from cracking you dont have to go all the way, then get it welded.

If its leaking air and its before the o2 sensor, the o2 will think its running lean and richen up the motor.

Im not sure about jb weld on exhaust manifolds. But exhaust manifolds are pretty common at the junk yards. Especially the a1/a4.

[Accrdwgnguy]

Welding cast iron is tricky, and therefore expensive

[lordoja]

what you should do is drill a little bit at the end of the crack to stop it from cracking you dont have to go all the way, then get it welded.

If its leaking air and its before the o2 sensor, the o2 will think its running lean and richen up the motor.

Im not sure about jb weld on exhaust manifolds. But exhaust manifolds are pretty common at the junk yards. Especially the a1/a4.

^ this

i went through it, just be safe and get the ebay header in the mean time, just have a shop cut off the heatshield mount points and weld them on the new header unless you want to waste perfectly fine heat wrap on shitty header.

[Losiracer2]

yeah i'm trying find one locally on CL but no one seems to have any accords parting out.

I was considering welding it, but wasn't sure about the material, it looks pretty rough (cast).

the problem is finding another A1 manifold that doesn't have a crack.

[accordztech]

have you checked your junkyards in arizona? Here I only seen one out of 20 that are cracked.

[Bullhorn7]

Might wanna fix that quick, this is why my head blew in my old CB.

[C91BLX7]

Every CB I've seen has this crack. Both of mine did. I doubt its your problem.

[accordztech]

Every CB I've seen has this crack. Both of mine did. I doubt its your problem.

lol everyone I seen doesnt have a crack LOL

[Losiracer2]

yeah I found one thankfully. Some guy locally in Tempe, AZ had one. My temp tags on the car expire on the 15th, TODAY! haha, so I gotta go get this thing emissioned. It cost me 25 bucks but in the process I solved another problem with the car. Apparently there are two relays in the front d/s of the engine compartment that control the radiator and condensor fans, those were jerry rigged into having the rad. fan hardwired on the entire time, which was why the engine kept getting hotter during slow speed cruising (~10mph), condensor fan never turned on. He gave me those two relays and printed up an Alldata wiring diagram, which I didn't need, just plugged and play and both fans now turn on like normal. I would've never thought to look there, so I might've had to pay a little more for the header, but I got two relays for free and a free diag. from an ASE tech.

I also found out why it was lacking so much power, due to the timing being WAY off. I advanced the dizzy all the way CCW and the red mark still isn't lining up. But it does have a lot more power now and doesn't backfire out the intake so thats good. But I'm thinking I must be a tooth off on the timing belt. Eh, if it passes emissions then it should be good right?

[lordoja]

yeah I found one thankfully. Some guy locally in Tempe, AZ had one. My temp tags on the car expire on the 15th, TODAY! haha, so I gotta go get this thing emissioned.

I found out why it was lacking so much power, due to the timing being WAY off. I advanced the dizzy all the way CCW and the red mark still isn't lining up. But it does have a lot more power and doesn't backfire out the intake now so thats good. But I'm thinking I must be a tooth off on the timing belt. Eh, if it passes then it should be good right?

they might give you shit for having your timing off, i had to swap out my A6 cam for the A4 one cus i didn't pass the first time around for this simple fact.

[accordztech]

+-2 from factory specs with base timing set. If your within that limit you are good

Jump the blue plug to check base timing. See where you are at. Maybe you couldn't get the timing where you want it cause you didn't put it in base timing

[HondaFan81]

I also found out why it was lacking so much power, due to the timing being WAY off. I advanced the dizzy all the way CCW and the red mark still isn't lining up. But it does have a lot more power now and doesn't backfire out the intake so thats good. But I'm thinking I must be a tooth off on the timing belt. Eh, if it passes emissions then it should be good right?

Physical timing is off, timing belt was not set properly. Redo the belt and reset base ignition timing, dizzy base should be near middle of slot. Then, make sure base idle is set properly afterwards.

My thoughts on cheapest fix for your F22a1 exhaust manifold is to replace it with a better condition OEM F22a1 or F22a4 exhaust manifold assembly.

I'm also guessing the manifold welds could have fractured due to excessive heat from ignition timing being off. Just a guess...