Since there weren't any threads when I searched on fuel pump installs and problems i'm making one.
Last week we had problems with the accord and it started sputtering. Soon enough it stopped starting, figured out the fuel pump wasn't priming anymore so figured it was time for a new one after 480k miles. Upgraded to a 255lb fuel pump, you won't be using the old school hubs the oem fuel pumps have for power +/- cables, the newer ones have a plug that have a direct positive and negative wires. We cut those and used the bridges(bought from auto zone $5) to connect the new wires from the plug to the original's on the car.
My main relay also needed to be replaced since it proved to be a problem so we just left the fuel pump in since it was time to be replaced anyway.
Before jumping to the fuel pump conclusion check the:
-Fuses
-Main Relay
-All cables and plugs that'll relate to the power to the fuel pump.
have the following ready
-Best to buy a pump that comes with a plug and filter, not all of them do so if you purchase online make sure to ask. You can buy an install kit if you want, but not really necessary.
-disconnect your battery
-relieve pressure in the lines by loosening the large bolt on the top of the fuel rail, "14", take off fuel cap.
-Take out the backseat, you'll see the cover for the fuel tank, unplug it before you drop the tank to avoid stretching/breaking wires and clips.
-Cutters/wire sliders
-Pliers,8, 10, 14 wrenches. some areas need extensions.
-Used the Hayne's manual for some reference as far as dropping the tank.
-tank is best to drop @ 1/4 tank if not empty.
-Keep a floor jack handy for tank support and a gas can/bucket to catch any fuel that'll come out the tank or lines.
- you can test your unit by connecting it to your car battery, +/- so you don't install and figure out it doesn't work.
Only have a few pics, i'll post em soon.
Last week we had problems with the accord and it started sputtering. Soon enough it stopped starting, figured out the fuel pump wasn't priming anymore so figured it was time for a new one after 480k miles. Upgraded to a 255lb fuel pump, you won't be using the old school hubs the oem fuel pumps have for power +/- cables, the newer ones have a plug that have a direct positive and negative wires. We cut those and used the bridges(bought from auto zone $5) to connect the new wires from the plug to the original's on the car.
My main relay also needed to be replaced since it proved to be a problem so we just left the fuel pump in since it was time to be replaced anyway.
Before jumping to the fuel pump conclusion check the:
-Fuses
-Main Relay
-All cables and plugs that'll relate to the power to the fuel pump.
have the following ready
-Best to buy a pump that comes with a plug and filter, not all of them do so if you purchase online make sure to ask. You can buy an install kit if you want, but not really necessary.
-disconnect your battery
-relieve pressure in the lines by loosening the large bolt on the top of the fuel rail, "14", take off fuel cap.
-Take out the backseat, you'll see the cover for the fuel tank, unplug it before you drop the tank to avoid stretching/breaking wires and clips.
-Cutters/wire sliders
-Pliers,8, 10, 14 wrenches. some areas need extensions.
-Used the Hayne's manual for some reference as far as dropping the tank.
-tank is best to drop @ 1/4 tank if not empty.
-Keep a floor jack handy for tank support and a gas can/bucket to catch any fuel that'll come out the tank or lines.
- you can test your unit by connecting it to your car battery, +/- so you don't install and figure out it doesn't work.
Only have a few pics, i'll post em soon.




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