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    Changing Oil Pan.

    I recently just picked up a 93 lx sedan 5 speed from a small local repair shop. The guy told me the car had a SMALL oil leak and does not know where it is since he has not the time to find it.

    I bought it and took her home to find out it was dripping from the oil pan. I am almost sure it's the gasket, but will look closer this coming up weekend.

    My question is, if I were to be replacing the gasket, should I simply replace the oil pan too? And how hard would it be to change the oil pan? Just bolts that hold up the pan right? Between that is the gasket? I don't know as this will be my first attempt to replace oil pan/gasket.

    Please suggest me anything I can replace on the bottom side of the car that would make the car more reliable or simply because it needs replacing, it's been awile since having a 4th gen but i'm damn glad to have one again. (My last one I wrecked, two years ago.)



    #2
    You would only replace the pan if it is the pan itself that is leaking or is damaged, otherwise just changing the gasket should suffice. First things first, clean the underside of the engine as best you can to determine the source of the leak. Make sure it is not draining down from a location higher than the pan to block interface. If the leak is at the left (driver) end, it could be crank seal or balance shaft seal. If the leak is at tbe back of the engine, it could be the oil pressure switch or oil filter leaking and draining down. If at the right end of the engine, it could be the main crank seal (which requires the transmission to be removed to replace it). If it is the pan gasket, you will need to drop the flex pipe (you will need new seals for this when reinstalling) and center beam first. When replacing the pan gasket, make sure that all the metal spacers in the old gasket come off the pan and block. Clean both surfaces well and use the proper torque and sequence when reassembling. I suggest getting at least a Haynes or Chilton manual, if not a factory manual (from Helm Inc.).
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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      #3
      Really theres not much to it. drop the pan and then insert the new gasket then bolt it back up. I don't know about other people but i used Hondabond in the corners when i installed mine a while back. As for the pan itself, ours is made of steel i think so unless you have some major dents in it that might affect the pick up or there is something wrong with the oil plug threading, then you ought to be good with the pan you have already.

      If you do go with a new pan, make sure it's a new pan. The pick and pull here in Cincinnati punctures the oil pan to drain the oil instead of taking the time to undo the plug so that would be a dumb idea to install a pan with a hole in it that isn't the oil plug.

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        #4
        Don't forget to drop the exhaust manifold/ header down pipe, it makes it much easier.

        02 Crv
        02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
        92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
        Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

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          #5
          Thanks guys, I took more of a quick glance, and it seems to be dripping on the backside of the oil pan. I will make sure tomorrow and let you know of the results so I know what to replace. The leak is very minor. It's been leaking for days and oil level is the same. Though that doesn't mean it's safe or good, just saying


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            #6
            If you are changing gasket/pan wait at least 30 minutes before putting oil. The longer the better. By the time you finish putting back the exhaust down pipe and center beam, you should be good. By the way you also have to remove the transmission clutch case cover.

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