fuel pressure problem

[cloudasc]

I think I said in an earlier post that my EGR and o2 are throwing codes. I've checked the codes myself. It's been that way for a year and a half, so that's why I was thinking it wasn't the cause of limp mode. I may try a new o2 sensor when I get paid just to see. A friend of mine said his cb7 went into limp mode over the o2 sensor (stock motor and ecu), so I guess it can't hurt to try.

Oh, I just got back from another "test run," haha. I let it warm up, then held it at nearly wot through first and second gear. After that, I drove normally. Before I got out of 4th gear, the car gave me the "limp mode jerk," as I've dubbed it after feeling it countless times this past week, lol. So yeah, back in limp mode.

Sorry there was so much information in this thread, I guess I missed that post (I see it now).

Both EGR and O2 sensors can cause hesitation issues.

Is the EGR wired up correctly and hooked to vacuum?

In regards to the O2 Sensor, is it plugged into its harness/connector?

If either of them are still 'hooked up' it could lead to the problems your experiencing. While the car is at an idle, you can check the EGR functionality by applying a vacuum (with a hand pump as an example), and the car should die (if working properly). There are also tests you can do on your current o2 sensor with a multi-meter. Both of these methods should be documented on this site, and a quick search should uncover the information.

[Nezdude87]

Sorry there was so much information in this thread, I guess I missed that post (I see it now).

Both EGR and O2 sensors can cause hesitation issues.

Is the EGR wired up correctly and hooked to vacuum?

In regards to the O2 Sensor, is it plugged into its harness/connector?

If either of them are still 'hooked up' it could lead to the problems your experiencing. While the car is at an idle, you can check the EGR functionality by applying a vacuum (with a hand pump as an example), and the car should die (if working properly). There are also tests you can do on your current o2 sensor with a multi-meter. Both of these methods should be documented on this site, and a quick search should uncover the information.

i have unhooked both the egr and o2 before and plugged them back in, no difference whatsoever. Once, the car went into limp mode with them plugged in, and at other times it did it with them unplugged. the car has always had a small hesitation unless i go past half throttle, but never went into limp mode until a week ago. i know the egr and o2 can make it run crappy, but from all the research i've done on the web this past week, they shouldn't cause the 3k rev limit.

[cloudasc]

When was the last time you tried pulling codes? The next time it acts up, I would recheck your codes, instead of just 2 (for egr and o2), you might have a 3rd that shows up and not know it, especially if your going into limp mode.

The ecu is detecting some problem that's why its putting you in limp mode, and the resulting code should be stored as long as you keep the ignition in the 'on' position if/after the car dies on you or starts acting funny.

[Nezdude87]

I've checked them over and over again, haha. After resetting they came back the same after about 10ish minutes of running. Those are the only two codes it's ever thrown since I've owned it. I know, I know, that should tell me something, but it also tells me that it didn't go into limp mode for the last year and a half over it either. So I dunno, I know this is ALMOST a unique situation with my f23 and poa ecu, I've just been searching and searching for general info on what causes limp mode in the first place. I've searched specifically about the poa ecu as well. I've read the throttle position sensor and crank position sensor could do it, but I don't know if codes would even show up for those things, and I don't even know where they're located lol. I've also wondered if the mechanic actually did find the right faulty part (fuel injector resistor) and because it was faulty, the ecu was fried. I found a poa ecu on ebay for 50 bucks, and if I can find one in a junkyard I'm gonna try it as well just to rule out the ecu taking a dump on me.

Also, is there any other obd1 ecu that would run the f23 decently? Vtec is not an issue, as it's never worked or made itself apparent that it was kicking in at any point since I've owned it lol. I have a thread in the beginner section where I eventually found it unhooked and wired it back up, and noticed hardly any change if any. So, if there's any obd1 ecu capable of plugging right in and having a chance of running this cursed thing please give me the info, it would be greatly appreciated.

[cloudasc]

The best ecu for your motor would be a chipped p06 that you had tuned and setup for your motor. The f23 has no obd1 equiv ecu, and the p0a from the f22b1 is really your only option, and even then its not right. For reference: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=137399

[Accord problems]

i had this problem with mine not revving past 3k ( limp mode ) . i had to replace the ecu . and clean your egr system .

[fstacrd]

I think it can be the fuel pump.. even if it turns on and you hear it, it can be only pushing so much fuel or the sock can be clogged, or it can be faulty injectors? it is your fuel system for sure.