Power Window Master Switch problem

[DCB7]

My driver door window stopped working a couple times over last month. Yesterday, it stopped working for good, stuck half way. I heard a delayed click after pressing the switch, so I figured it was the switch.


I cleaned the brown goo out of the connectors, still didn't work


I pulled it apart and cleaned the connectors, but when I put it back together and tried it, I noticed the fuse was blown. I switched a fuse over, and it blew immediately with a flash and puff of smoke.

I put a new fuse in with the battery disconnected, but as soon as I put the key in the on position the fuse blew again.

Any ideas? need help

[cloudasc]

Sounds like you have a serious short somewhere, I would start by reviewing the wiring schematic, and be ready to bust out the volt meter:

[DCB7]

Sounds like you have a serious short somewhere, I would start byh reviewing the wiring schematic, and be ready to bust out the volt meter:

Thanks man, hopefully the short is in the switch itself.
I scoured the junk yard today but all the master switches were taken out.
I'm going to keep trying to get a new one.

and thanks for the diagram, I dont have electrical experience.
butI'm going to get a voltmeter anyway,
cause I'm going to try to install an alarm as well.

Is there anyway to put the window up manually in the mean time?

[cloudasc]

If I am reading the diagram right, you should ground the red/yellow wire, and apply power to the red/blue wire. If that rolls the window down, just reverse the wires/polarity.

[DCB7]

ok, I think I got that.
But just to be clear, Im going to cut the yellow white, touch that on the body of the car, then cut the red blue wire, and connect that to a known power wire (dont have a voltmeter right now) Do you know a definite power wire I can use? from the diagram or else where?
And excuse me if this is a dumb question, but cant i just connect the red/blue wire to the yellow/white wire to complete the circuit? and reverse polarity means do it the other way around right?

[cloudasc]

I wouldn't cut the wire, you should be able to jump the pins. Solid black wire should be ground, and power White/Yellow. Something like a paperclip might do the trick.

EDIT: In my previous response I meant red/yellow not white/yellow, as such my previous post has been edited, so re-read it.

[DCB7]

Thanks for taking the time man.
So I can ground the pin of the black wire, and use a paper clip to jump/connect the red/yellow pin to the red/blue pin? I'm down to my last 20a fuse, just want to make sure.

[cloudasc]

Just don't plug the connectors back into the switch/control box and you shouldn't burn a fuse.

Jump black (ground) to yellow/red, jump white/yellow (power) to red/blue, and if that rolls the window down, then try black to red/blue, and yellow/red to red/blue.

If neither option work to move the window, the blue wire/pin might also need to be jumped to black.

[oyajicool]

When all else fails, you could bring the car over. I have a short circuit detector which works pretty good finding a short.

[DCB7]

Just don't plug the connectors back into the switch/control box and you shouldn't burn a fuse.

Jump black (ground) to yellow/red, jump white/yellow (power) to red/blue, and if that rolls the window down, then try black to red/blue, and yellow/red to red/blue.

If neither option work to move the window, the blue wire/pin might also need to be jumped to black.

I tried these and some more combinations (before a rain storm came in and lightning knocked the lights out), plenty of spark from the white/yellow pin, the fuse didn't blow, but the window didn't move. There was a click inside the door, but no movement.
I used speaker wire to jump it, don't know if that makes a difference.

When all else fails, you could bring the car over. I have a short circuit detector which works pretty good finding a short.

Thanks Marc. I was going to save your help for the IM swap, but if all else fails I might just be pulling up to your place in the next few days