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    Rebuild time.

    Well guys, the time has come to rebuild my tired f22a1. She's got almost 250,000 hard, abusive miles on her and its starting to show. I'm just looking for any tips or things to look out for before I begin tackling the rebuild. As of now, I've already got a freshly rebuilt a6 head I planed on swapping anyway. So I'm looking to clean and re-ring my pistons, hone the cylinder walls, and replace all bearings, seals and gaskets I encounter along the way. Also doing a full timing, water pump replacement. Am I missing anything? Thanks guys!

    #2
    Oil pump, F22A6/H22A* windage tray and oil pickup, F22A6 or H23A1 IM, with AIBs with black box, F22A4/6 exhaust and a PT6 ECU, thermostat, and the list goes on and on...

    Take your time and do it slow, also this isn't really a technical post so this is in the wrong section.

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      #3
      Already got the h23 IM and full exhaust covered but alright, I guess it can be moved if necessary!

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        #4
        Are you rebuilding with it in the car? I recommend pulling it out.

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          #5
          Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
          Are you rebuilding with it in the car? I recommend pulling it out.
          If the cylinders are going to be honed, I hope the block is coming out of the car and going to a machine shop. If not all the timing belt, water pump, etc, would be easier out of the car.
          -1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
          -1993 Accord EX SOLD
          -1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
          -2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4

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            #6
            I imagine it's coming out of the car. I think wild bill just ask cause he is crazy enough to do it in the car lol. Also Dont forget in my mind one of the really important things balance shaft seal retainer worth the 1.50 to not have oil go all over a fresh rebuild.

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              #7
              Originally posted by GunRunner View Post
              If the cylinders are going to be honed, I hope the block is coming out of the car and going to a machine shop. If not all the timing belt, water pump, etc, would be easier out of the car.
              I am crazy enough... I tried it before, what a nightmare. I used a rigid hone and completely stripped the block in my integra. It took me a long time to get it put back together and a few busted knuckles...

              Keep us posted with photos, if you have questions shoot me a PM. Rebuilds is something I find relaxing and fun to do (as long as it is out of the car).

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                #8
                Alright guys, yes, more than likely ill be pulling the motor. Ill be heading to harbor freight to see about an engine stand sometime this week. Once i get the stand, ill begin teardown. Ill be sure to take as many pictures as i can! My only question so far is ring gap. Do i need to gap my rings? Or will they come pre gapped? I can't seem to find a strait answer on the subject. Thanks!

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                  #9
                  Regardless of rings size you get (STD or OS) or brand, you need to make sure the gaps are within tolerance.

                  I wouldn't just install them without checking the specs.
                  Last edited by oyajicool; 07-30-2013, 01:07 AM.
                  A&P-IA

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                    #10
                    Gotcha! Would you happen to know the size for standard 85mm bore with stock pistons? I know each ring has a different gap spec depending on its location on the piston, too.

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                      #11
                      Hynes manual shows different numbers for different M/Y of the car. Not by engine M/N.
                      A&P-IA

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