under engine brace stripped?

[gamble_it]

Hello there cb7tuner. didn't really know where this would go...

so, it's about time for a new oil pan, which i'm going to skid plate this time so i don't have to keep doing this. anyways, my biggest problem when it comes to doing this job, is the brace (what would this be called by the way?) that runs from the front of the car, under the engine/oil pan, and then connects to right around the steering rack. there's 3 bolts in the front, 2 in the back.

so, when i take this thing off, it kinda springs off, like there's tension. unbolt it, do the pan, and when i go to put it back on, it doesn't line up. bolts are off by just a hair. one morning in my haste to get my car together to make it to work on time, i just tightened them in there, surely stripping the threads. i've tried putting a new brace on to see if maybe my brace was bent from hitting it all the time. nope. tried putting a new lower rad support whatever that's called to see if that would help. nope.

i guess my question is, 1) what is that brace called, because i've been calling it a cross member and i don't think that's right 2) since it's not lining up, frame damage? 3) since this car is my only form of transportation right now, how would i go about fixing these threads? heli-coil? is that strong enough for something like this? i'm going to make the holes a little bigger on the brace so it can bolt up, but i need to fix the threads so they actually tighten.

thanks for the help anyone. looking forward to hearing your input.

[steelbluesleepR]

sounds like a bit of cross member damage, probably from hitting something while driving ridiculously low.

[cp[mike]]

the reason it doesnt usually line back up is because when the car is standing on jackstands, the front of the car is lifted up off the ground and is actually bending forward from the weight. this reduces the distance from the front to the back of the engine bay, most notable by the brace that no longer fits.

if you jack up the front of the car on the crossmember, take the weight off, the brace should fit again.

btw, the crossmembers are the big main pieces that either end of that brace bolts to. the brace is just a "crossmember brace"

[gamble_it]

sounds like a bit of cross member damage, probably from hitting something while driving ridiculously low.

i have had a few suprise dips, bumps, bounces that have slammed right into the "cross member brace"

the reason it doesnt usually line back up is because when the car is standing on jackstands, the front of the car is lifted up off the ground and is actually bending forward from the weight. this reduces the distance from the front to the back of the engine bay, most notable by the brace that no longer fits.

if you jack up the front of the car on the crossmember, take the weight off, the brace should fit again.

btw, the crossmembers are the big main pieces that either end of that brace bolts to. the brace is just a "crossmember brace"

ah, the part about the car bending makes sense... question though, so, once i have the car on stands, and i do all the work, do i lift the car from the front so it's off the stands, then bolt it back? i think that's what you're saying, just trying to clarify.

so that sounds like i'll be able to get the bolts in without any drilling, but, what should i do about the stripped threads? i know i can replace the front threads, because i already have (yay i love doing stuff twice ya'know?), not too sure about the rear ones at the moment, i feel like it's part of the unibody. i'll check tomorrow when i'm under there. but even so, do you think heli-coil will work? or just simply drilling it out slightly bigger and re-tapping?

[cp[mike]]

id say re-tap them a little bigger. since they are 12mms, maybe do a 1/2"? the rear bolts up almost exactly the same way the front does - except that the rear crossmember is larger to encapsulate the steering rack. still just a hollow metal beam with nuts welded onto the back of the sheet. good luck

[Sordz]

Either make the holes bigger on the brace or leave it off, I used my car for years without it.

[Stoner51]

Either make the holes bigger on the brace or leave it off, I used my car for years without it.

Well I've been looking at ESP traction bars lately and If I'm not mistaken you take this support out and don't put it back on.

So I assume you could remove it with little to no damage.

This is just a theory, Mine is still on my car.

steve

[Fleetw00d]

I replaced the front crossmember on my 93 LX (accident damage); it wasn't too hard. Remove the radius rods to the lower control arms, then the four bolts that hold the crossmember to the body structure. The Honda manual indicates the bolts should be replaced, I used Loctite blue when reinstalling them. An EX has part of the ABS system bolted to the top of the cross member on the right side.

[gamble_it]

Either make the holes bigger on the brace or leave it off, I used my car for years without it.

really? the brace that goes from the front to rear crossmember? you can just leave that off? i always felt like that's a pretty important brace? i guess not...

Well I've been looking at ESP traction bars lately and If I'm not mistaken you take this support out and don't put it back on.

So I assume you could remove it with little to no damage.

This is just a theory, Mine is still on my car.

steve

damn, you guys are both talking about the brace for the front to rear crossmembers?

I replaced the front crossmember on my 93 LX (accident damage); it wasn't too hard. Remove the radius rods to the lower control arms, then the four bolts that hold the crossmember to the body structure. The Honda manual indicates the bolts should be replaced, I used Loctite blue when reinstalling them. An EX has part of the ABS system bolted to the top of the cross member on the right side.

i have already replaced this front crossmember, i'd say around june this year, as well as the brace to see if it would help the holes line up since i thought i had damaged mine from dips,etc. it didn't help it line up any better, but it's nice having the three front threads not stripped. the rear two are pretty bad now. i have no option right now except put it back together and drive it till at least this thursday. local junkyard is doing 50% off so i can get a new rear crossmember for around $25 which i can barely afford as is.


but shit, if people are driving around with this off? i don't know if i can actually, even if other people are doing it. my rides really bouncy due to basically no travel in my front shocks, really need extended top hats. rear is stiff as hell too so it doesn't help ride quality at all...

[Sordz]

really? the brace that goes from the front to rear crossmember? you can just leave that off? i always felt like that's a pretty important brace? i guess not...

Why dont you post a picture? Because some people are talking about the actual subframe and some the brace. The brace I am talking about is #1 and yes, you can remove this. Like Stoner51 said you have no choice when installing a traction bar anyway. This is not as important as you think...