Drum Brake Spring

[XCRN]

I have been having issues with the upper spring. I have been looking up different guides and videos, but my spring is different. Instead of the smaller spring going along side the adjuster, the adjuster is inside the spring, and this spring is large and almost impossible to stretch. Any suggestions to hook the spring to the other shoe.

[illinois_erik]

first if you havnt already; get you a service manual
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

it has come in handy and is way better then the parts store manuals.


and it sounds like you might have the wrong hardware?? or someone before you rigged it up..this is for a CB right?



and I like using majestic or whatever, honda sites for the blown up parts diagrams..a pictures worth a thousand words.. eventually when I get this color laser printer going
Im going to run a ream thru it printing all the diagrams and the FSM pdf and bind it all into a book

[XCRN]

That looks right. When I was searching videos, the 98-01 looked exactly like mine and the 90-93 looks different. I think my issue is upper body strength, any good substitutes for that.

[Bad_dude]

The upper springs are really tough to get on. Watch the cylinders do not get push out too far and oil will come out then you have to bleed the brakes.

[illinois_erik]

That looks right. When I was searching videos, the 98-01 looked exactly like mine and the 90-93 looks different. I think my issue is upper body strength, any good substitutes for that.

leverage, and using those big multi pliers they usually have a sweeping hook on the ends to get the spring hook around, you get it to the pin and you basically roll the springs hook off the tool onto the peg.
example:


have you seen the eric the car guys video (im sure you have) on drums? its good if you havnt


or a stout friend.

[cb7 calling]

Install the shoe with the e- brake cable first. Hook the spring through that one and the other shoe. Pull the whole shoe over to the front of the car and install. I like to make sure the installed shoe is not touching the drum at all. Either in front of or behind it, this will still take more than one try because the spring or adjuster comes off but it works. Then set the shoes into the drum. I like to leave the other side of the car intact as a quick reference to what goes where.

[XCRN]

I will try attaching the shoe first and if that does not work then I will get a set of pliers. I am annoyed to find out it was not worn shoes making the noise, but it is probably the bearing. Well after this ordeal I will go rear disc for sure.

[illinois_erik]

I will try attaching the shoe first and if that does not work then I will get a set of pliers. I am annoyed to find out it was not worn shoes making the noise, but it is probably the bearing. Well after this ordeal I will go rear disc for sure.

check the inside of the drum for heavy scoring. If there are grooves, they act like giant screw threads so as you apply the brakes the shoes will walk and pop and repeat. They can turn drums too. good luck.

[Losiracer2]

The simplest way I found to do the upper spring is with two flathead screwdrivers.

1. Hook the spring onto the shaft of the screwdriver, then put the end of the screwdriver into the hole where the spring is supposed to lock into.

2. Stretch the spring with the flathead then use the other screwdriver to slide the spring into the hole. You might have to tap the spring with the screwdriver since it is going to be under tension.

I usually do it until the spring "bites" some of the hole where it needs to go, then use the other screwdriver to push it and lock it into place.

This is probably the best, quickest and most stress free way to do it. Takes about 10 sec if done right.

I've purchased that stupid return spring tool and messed around with it for an hour before getting nowhere and resorting to this method.

[XCRN]

Losi got me closer than ever, but it is probably time to quit when you throw tools at the wall and they make sizeable holes. My next option is to either use a tow truck or get the spring in there without the adjuster and drive to the shop less than a mile away. Is it possible to go very temporarily without the adjuster or to not have that spring at all.

[XCRN]

Or another question. Would the parts for a rear disc swap be cheaper than paying a shop to do the shoes assuming an average price for just the shoe replacement.

[schierholz]

My drivers side drum pissed me off. It started with the passenger side that went together fine and two clicks of the E-brake it had little movement.... On drivers side I copied the passenger exactly and it just will not work as it should even when I went to bleed all the brakes so in sense for some reason I can pull the E-brake all the way up and its way to easy but does keep the car in one place. but I guess when I feel like looking at it again I can see if i missed something and along with XCRN I would not mind trying a disk swap it would more complete a true 91 SE conversion just gotta find a good deal on all the parts.

[XCRN]

I was doing some maths, and on winter break so you know I'm serious, looking at pick-n-pull's pricing, the trailing arms are ~$20, rotors w/o hub is $13, E-brake cable $14, caliper $17. Multiply that by 2 is $81. Might be a bit more, but so far that seems to be the cheaper option. I can change a trailing arm, but not a brake shoe, FML.

[cb7 calling]

I like the sound of that flat head screwdriver method. Going rear discs is one solution but being able to do drum brakes is probly useful. Sounds like you where close, it just takes practice.

[bobbycos]

I went 5 lug and stayed drum in the rear. Just take your time and follow the post involving the screwdriver method. Unless you get the tool with the little hook at the end of it.