Okay so pretty much since I've had my wagon I've been battling this idle issue, at first it always fluctuated when it got up to operating temperature. It would spike up to around 2k and drop back to 1k spike and drop, spike and drop over and over. I cleared all my CEL's (iacv, fuel supply, and egr) my egr system is like completely new at this point, even cleaned the main runner. The other parts I just took off and cleaned and the codes went away. Okay so that fixed my bouncing idle, but the car has always idled low since then, around 500 rpms. I bled coolant, set my base idle, and it always comes back to 500 rpms at idle. Now this morning it was unrealistically cold for Georgia weather, the car acted like it didn't wanna start at all. And when it finally did, this bouncing idle had returned with a vengeance. Now once the car heated up it went back to just idling low. But I'm running short of ideas... Im sorry that was so long winded but I'm running myself up the wall thinking about it. What do you guys think?
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Just to make sure, when you say 500, are you basing that on the tach in the dash? What mark are you calling 500? Note that the tach essentially starts at 500 (the large mark at the bottom, just above the peg where it rests when shut off). Each mark between that one and 1000 is 100 rpm. It should idle roughly half way between.
If it is really at 500, then likely base idle is set incorrectly or IACV does not work correctly.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner ForumsComment
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Another Atl person, cool. I can help you out.
I agree with the base idle. I'm assuming you read the DIY section already. I hope you don't have any vacuum leaksComment
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I had the same problem with my '90 LX sedan, where it would idle erratically when cold, then stabilize once warm. It might be the FITV - it's supposed to help warm the car up faster during cold weather (if I remember correct). That was the issue with mine - took it out, sprayed with brake or carb cleaner (can't remember which, don't think it matters, really), made sure everything was nice and shiny, and reinstalled. Also made sure to torque down the plastic screw plate on top by hand, I believe I used a quarter. After that, my idle was fixed.
Just my 2 cents, hope it helps. That bouncing idle drove me nuts...Originally posted by crazymikeyComment
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Hm okay, well I didn't know that, so thank you. Lol. I guess it does idle out somewhere in the middle or maybe a touch under that. But it idles really rough, when I'm on the accelerator it seems fine though. No shakes, no fluctuation or anything of that nature. It just idles rough when I'm at a stop. But to the other guys, I definitely appreciate the advice, but I've gone through my base idle set up like 3 or 4 times and it'll stabilize at a good rpm immediately after, but when I shut the car off and reset the ecu to kill the CEL and start it back up it will be the same rough idle all over again, like I never set the base idle. I've also cleaned the iacv, fitv, and the ab valve... So I guess the next step would be checking again for vacuum leaks, and mybe replacing the iacv? I know for a fact I need to replace my oil pan gasket, could that cause vacuum leak type symptoms?Comment
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If you're pulling air from the oil pan, you may want to do a leak-down test as air would have to go past the piston rings. I doubt that that's an issue. It should be warm-ish this weekend. A good time to check for vacuum leaks if you aren't busy.Comment
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I'm pickin up what your puttin down, but when you say leak down test what exactly do you mean? And is there a better way to test for vacuum leaks than spraying down hose areas with TB cleaner? I've done that a few times and can't seem to cause a spike in the idle, but maybe I'm not hitting the right areas?Comment
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I was just saying what would have to happen for a bad oil pan gasket to affect your idle. A leak-down test is good for seeing how well your sealing is in the compression chamber. It's an awesome test for determining the health of an engine.
I use a spray bottle with water in it and listen for a sucking sound. That's how I found mine at least. Make sure you hit the manifold gaskets as well.Comment
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So effectively the same idea as a compression test? But okay I gotcha, is the sucking sound relatively easy to identify? I've never heard of anyone using water, not saying that it couldn't work cause I've never tried it. I'd just imagine that the noise in the engine bay would make it kind of hard to hear? Sorry if that sounds dumb... lolComment
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You'll hear it, it's very noticeable...it'll sound like trying to get the last bit of juice out of a cup through a straw. And your engine will stutter a bit.
It's similar to a compression test, they're in the same familyComment
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i had that same problem with my fast idle valve but i had to open mine up and screw the valve down it was loose and after that she idles just fine now. hope that helps as wellOriginally posted by Agent87 View PostComment
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When you say you had to open it up and then tighten it down do you mean you had to back it out first and then it went down further? Cause I tried to tighten mine down but it was pretty snug already. I didn't wan a beat up the plastic too bad. But alright on the leak down test... I hate to sound incompetent but what exactly is a leak down test and how do you perform one? Sorry... I'm just tryin to make sure I totally understand.Comment
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i took the two screws off the fast idle and screwed down the plastic. sounds like yours was good.Comment
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