Hi all,
My mom's been on my case lately about something going on with her car. The car has a bog/hesitation around 1500 rpm, only after the engine is up to normal operating temperature.
If I'm driving along and it kicks into OD and the revs drop to around 1.5K it'll go fine, but when I tap the accelerator, it bogs and then accelerates. If I keep it above roughly 1.5K it runs like a champ. However, if I accelerate from a dead stop, or if the engine speed is below 1.5K, it does the same bog.
A quick scan of the service records that came with the car when we purchased it shows that the car had the EGR valve cleaned out, the fuel filter replaced and a bottle of fuel system treatment added. There was no notation of thet EGR ports being touched in the intake manifold. The note said the the mehanic suspected the ECU, but I have a hard time believing that honestly. I reset the ECU after it threw a one time CEL (O2 sensor heater), but that hasn't returned since. I've always been under the impression a stock ECU would either be good or bad, since a fuel/timing curve can't randomly change. If my car was auto, I'd swap in my ECU just for kicks, but I'm aware a manual ECU won't run an auto (that's correct, right?).
I'm ruling out the transmission as any culprit, as it happens in any/every gear, and I had the fluid changed at Honda about 2 months ago. The sport light isn't blinking, and I have no reason to suspect a malfunctioning TCU or anything of the like.
Searching on this topic, I could only find a few solutions and one of them was that it was EGR related. It makes sense in a way because it only starts to act up once the car is at normal operating temperature, and from my understanding of the EGR system, the system only turns on if you will when the engine is warm.
Could clogged ports be the root cause of this? I know this can be a tedious task, so is there any way I can test my theory without having to actually go in there and drill them out before hand that won't do any damage to the car?
I thought about just disconnecting the EGR, but will that affect the drivability enough that I won't be able to rule out the EGR as an issue?
Like I said, I did pull up similar topics, mainly posted by alb_accord, but I couldn't find a resolved answer for my question.
Thanks in advance.
My mom's been on my case lately about something going on with her car. The car has a bog/hesitation around 1500 rpm, only after the engine is up to normal operating temperature.
If I'm driving along and it kicks into OD and the revs drop to around 1.5K it'll go fine, but when I tap the accelerator, it bogs and then accelerates. If I keep it above roughly 1.5K it runs like a champ. However, if I accelerate from a dead stop, or if the engine speed is below 1.5K, it does the same bog.
A quick scan of the service records that came with the car when we purchased it shows that the car had the EGR valve cleaned out, the fuel filter replaced and a bottle of fuel system treatment added. There was no notation of thet EGR ports being touched in the intake manifold. The note said the the mehanic suspected the ECU, but I have a hard time believing that honestly. I reset the ECU after it threw a one time CEL (O2 sensor heater), but that hasn't returned since. I've always been under the impression a stock ECU would either be good or bad, since a fuel/timing curve can't randomly change. If my car was auto, I'd swap in my ECU just for kicks, but I'm aware a manual ECU won't run an auto (that's correct, right?).
I'm ruling out the transmission as any culprit, as it happens in any/every gear, and I had the fluid changed at Honda about 2 months ago. The sport light isn't blinking, and I have no reason to suspect a malfunctioning TCU or anything of the like.
Searching on this topic, I could only find a few solutions and one of them was that it was EGR related. It makes sense in a way because it only starts to act up once the car is at normal operating temperature, and from my understanding of the EGR system, the system only turns on if you will when the engine is warm.
Could clogged ports be the root cause of this? I know this can be a tedious task, so is there any way I can test my theory without having to actually go in there and drill them out before hand that won't do any damage to the car?
I thought about just disconnecting the EGR, but will that affect the drivability enough that I won't be able to rule out the EGR as an issue?
Like I said, I did pull up similar topics, mainly posted by alb_accord, but I couldn't find a resolved answer for my question.
Thanks in advance.
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