Tnwagn : 1991 Accord LX

[JoshM]

Any updates on the retrofit?

[Tnwagn]

Ahh... the axle. i forgot about that! lol I feel like a retard now.

Exactly how I felt when I had the car up on the jack, wheel off, and with one stud knocked out.

D'OH!

[90Cb7sleeper]

Ahh... the axle. i forgot about that! lol I feel like a retard now.

[Tnwagn]

slide hammer bolted to the oem lug studs? i've seen that done before. you dont have to take the hub apart. just pull the wheel bearing/ hub out as an assembly. then they will fit.

Yeah, I know I can do it without pressing out the hub. I didn't have a 36mm socket to take out the staked axle nut and I didn't feel like running out to the store.

I'll do it sometime in the next month or so. Not going to rush anything, especially after all the problems I've had so far when rushing stuff.

[90Cb7sleeper]

slide hammer bolted to the oem lug studs? i've seen that done before. you dont have to take the hub apart. just pull the wheel bearing/ hub out as an assembly. then they will fit.

[Tnwagn]

Nic was right, you can't install extended studs without removing the hub from the knuckle. If you leave it on there, they hit the knuckle when trying to put them in from the back. I'm in the middle of it right now, so wish me luck on not screwing up the hub.

EDIT: Screw this, I'm going to do it next weekend.


Installed the progress rear sway yesterday and all i have to say is

[Tnwagn]

Thanks, I'll see what I can do tomorrow. I've got a ton of things I need to get done. Hopefully I won't be lazy and will get everything installed

[djcaz_aom]

Yoe can just get 100mm bolts and insert them temp. and use an air hammer and just drive the hub out. This is actually the way Honda techs do it.

Looking good bro.

[90Cb7sleeper]

you can pop a stock stud out easily with the caliper removed, but with the added length of the extended studs, your not allowed as great of an angle to get it in. Mine were hitting the knuckle IIRC. you can take a 10mm socket and hit the head of it in a criss cross pattern to get the front hub out to install the studs. I had to do this when i replaced my lowered ball joint.

I messed up the threads on one trying to get it in.

also, mine were Skunk2 studs. it maybe different with ARP

[Tnwagn]

Sounds good man.

Im kinda doing the same thing. Not reverting back to stock, just getting everything up to a SOLID platform that can be used to begin modification.

Exactly! I'm just trying to eliminate anything that could cause problems down the road.

installation of extended wheel studs on the front requires removal of the hub... I fucked a stud up trying to proove myself wrong.

rear drums can be removed with a BFH, it takes alot to mess one up, dont be afraid to whale on it... i have xtras if you wind up needing one.

Hmm, I really want to avoid taking off the front hub, as I don't want to risk damaging it. I've seen guides that show there being an area up front that you can pop the studs out easily without removing anything. How did you mess up your stud?

As for the rear, thanks for the info, but I'm going to wait until later to replace it. I have enough to work on this weekend as it is.

[90Cb7sleeper]

installation of extended wheel studs on the front requires removal of the hub... I fucked a stud up trying to proove myself wrong.

rear drums can be removed with a BFH, it takes alot to mess one up, dont be afraid to whale on it... i have xtras if you wind up needing one.

[MikeW]

Sounds good man.

Im kinda doing the same thing. Not reverting back to stock, just getting everything up to a SOLID platform that can be used to begin modification.

[Tnwagn]

Anyways, George, you can change out rear studs without taking the hub off.

You do have to take the drum off, which is a PITA then hammer them bitches off.
IIRC there is enough room to stick a stud back through there. Not really sure though since this was discovered as I was switching to discs out back and salvaged good studs from the drums to put on the discs.

With the rear discs studs of any length can be put in easily with the rear caliper removed.

Good info to know Gary. I thought about ordering one pack of 5 studs, but didn't want to waste the money. Looking back, it was only like $3 more, I probably should have just bought it to cover myself. Oh well

I've heard removing the rear drum can be a bitch, but then again I've heard of some people having it slide off with ease. Guess I won't know until I tackle that project. I'm not too concerned about it right now. I don't plan on Auto-X'ing or Tracking the car anytime soon (if ever) so I feel alright driving around like that.

And I'm in the process of putting together a list of all the problems I have with my car that I'm going to take care of over the next few years. I don't really want to put money into a new used car when I have a very reliable platform that gets good mileage that I know how to work on. I figure that even if I go all out and get the best parts I can find I still will save money restoring this car vs. buying a newer used car and just driving it. Plus, insurance is sooooooooooo cheap on my car. The insurance company pretty much sees my car as the least threatening vehicle out there, so my rate is awesome, even for my age. I can't wait for 5 years when I hit 25. My rate is going to be pretty much nothing

Anyway, here is the beginning of the list. So far I've just started listing Exterior and Interior issues. Those that look at the pictures and think my car has no problems, guess again

Exterior:

- Front Passenger’s side inner fender liner ripped out
- Wiper Arms have faded black paint
- New paint needed
- Driver’s door has bent trim piece
- Rear Driver’s side door has bent trim piece
- Window Visors have insufficient double sided tape
- Window Visors are faded
- Rear Passenger’s side quarter panel has rust
- Rear Driver’s side quarter panel leaks water into cabin of car badly

Interior:

- Glove box dampener broken
- Cup Holder will not stay in
- Both Front doors leak water, causing water lines on speaker grills
- Driver’s door speaker grill needs to re-glued down
- Driver’s door has ripped weather-stripping
- Rear Driver’s side door panel has gouges
- 6”x9” Speaker and Panel aren’t installed
- Hatch Carpet isn’t properly fitted
- Unknown squeaks all around cabin

[The G-Man]

Anyways, George, you can change out rear studs without taking the hub off.

You do have to take the drum off, which is a PITA then hammer them bitches off.
IIRC there is enough room to stick a stud back through there. Not really sure though since this was discovered as I was switching to discs out back and salvaged good studs from the drums to put on the discs.

With the rear discs studs of any length can be put in easily with the rear caliper removed.

[Tnwagn]

nice.. If i may ask how much did those run you? And do they make shorter ones or just the extended ones?

I ordered from Summit just because they have great service. Probably not the best prices, but I trust them above any other company I have dealt with. I paid 45.55 shipped.

ARP makes both stock length and extended length metric studs that are the same dimensions as our stock studs.

Stock Length Wheel Studs 4 Pack --- ARP P/N: 100-7709
Stock Length Wheel Studs 5 Pack --- ARP P/N: 100-7710
Extended Wheel Studs 4 Pack ------- ARP P/N: 100-7711
Extended Wheel Studs 5 Pack ------- ARP P/N: 100-7712

The lugnuts are OEM Honda P/N: 90381-SV1-901. They ran 3.36 a piece for me at the dealership today.