code 43 engine bogging down

[ontheroad92]

so, i'm still having this problem. basically, the problem i've described in every other past thread i've posted. no cel is currently coming on. it was code 43. i've already put in a few oxygen sensors.

egr valve was most recent. my friend thought that was the issue. he thinks there's something electrical regarding the egr valve. any ideas? the cel is NOT coming on. i have not cleared the code. the car is still practically stopping dead. almost choking up. does not shut off.

replaced so far:
* egr valve
* spark plug wires
* distributor
* spark plugs
* fuel filter
* fuel pump

the iat sensor is at around 1. normal readings are 1-4.

i've been told the catalytic converter is fine.

i may have tested it wrong, but i tried to test the injector resistor box. see this diagram:
http://s133.photobucket.com/user/Gho...check.gif.html

[F22Chris]

What's the fuel pressure?

[Raf99]

Hi, So usually a code 43 is related to the following items:

1. Fuel Pump
2. Fuel Filter
3. Injector Resistor
4. Injector


Do you have fuel pressure at the rail?
What O2 sensor are you using? (make/model)
Does the car run?

[illinois_erik]

ohm out the injectors too along with the resister box

[ontheroad92]

the fuel pump was replaced as well as the filter. both honda. o2 sensors are denso. fuel pressure is ok. car "runs". basically, it will start fine and go a bit, sometimes at speed limit fine. then it will lose power and then sometimes jerk back up accelerating. sometimes it almost stalls out. it's been getting worse and not driven much. it used to be bad at higher speeds, now it's bad at lower speeds too.

illinois erik, i'm sorry to sound like a dumbass, but how do you do that? i have NO idea what i'm doing!

[CornDog]

Have you checked out the main relay? It does control the fuel pump and its notorious for having cracked solder joints. Cracked solder joints = intermittent connections to the fuel pump/ECU.

If you want to test the injectors use a multi-meter on the ohms or resistance setting and put it across the terminals of the injector to be tested. It must be unplugged. I believe your looking for around 3 ohms. The injector resistor box can be tested by unplugging it and probing its 5 terminals: There is one of one color and 4 of another color. Put one lead from the multi-meter on the single colored wire and use the other lead to probe the other 4 like colored wires. You will have tested 4 terminals and all their resistances should be very similar. I don't remember what the actual value is supposed to be but you shouldn't need that info, you just need to make sure they're all alike. Just an FYI, the box and the injector solenoids rarely fail. Usually if anything happens the injector just gets stopped up and that can't be tested with a multi-meter. But hey, crazy stuff happens on 25 year old cars. Test everything you can get your hands on.

[ontheroad92]

ok, sorry to update this post so late, but i got very busy with work.

anyways, i tested the resistor box, everything there came up normal at about 6 ohms.

pulled out main relay and no signs of cracks.

checked all the fuses, they look fine.

is there anything electrical/sensor wise that is connected to the egr valve? the issue was popping up when my friend was messing with the car, causing it to lose power/bog down and he said it's something connected to that. i have replaced the egr valve.

[ontheroad92]

also, cel is not coming on at the moment when driving, but i'm barely driving this thing. it's still messing up.

[CornDog]

pulled out main relay and no signs of cracks.
.

Personally I would swap it out with a known good working one. Those things can fool you! I have one sitting on my kitchen table right now that doesnt have any cracks in it either but sure enough, its bad.

I did see one awhile back that had a gas tank full of water and it ran alot like that. But seeing as how you replaced the fuel pump and filter I would think you would have noticed something like that.

[ontheroad92]

I don't drive the car much. Do you think the gas is contaminated? It's only gone 20 miles in the past few months.

I'll pop a new main relay in there to test, just to see. Last time i had main relay issues, the car wouldn't start. it's starting fine now.

No codes coming up like I said, so it's frustrating.

Could it be throttle position sensor?

I know there's an egr lift sensor. like i said, my friend did something with it and said it's an egr issue, even though no code 12 present.

[ontheroad92]

put in a new main relay. car is still acting up. went fine for a short drive then died out while driving. was driving around 35 mph. i'm absolutely stumped!

[sonikaccord]

Does the car only stall when cold or does it do it at normal operating temp too?

EGR related issues happen around 2krpm IIRC.

[ontheroad92]

the problem is acting up once the car is warmed up. i cleaned out the iac valve and replaced the gasket. seems it just keeps getting worse and worse!

[Fleetw00d]

Does it die at part throttle when you're driving or only when you let off the accelerator and it drops to idle?

[ontheroad92]

while i'm driving and my foot's on the gas. it started originally when i was at higher speeds around 45 mph and was very occasional. now it's pretty constant after driving about 10 minutes or so. it will come to a complete stop. it helps if i restart after letting it sit for a bit, but will only go for another 5-10 minutes of driving. sometimes it'll jerk too, but mostly it slows down and dies.