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Old 06-12-2018, 10:40 PM   #1
fleetw00d
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fleetw00d : 1992 Accord EX (2)

Picked up #12, 1992 EX auto, 190k, another rescue project:

92 EX Rosewood by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

ENGINE
- Stock F22A6 (needed head gasket)
- Stock automatic transmission
- OEM style exhaust (needs muffler tips)

EXTERIOR
- Stock, rust at the rear of the wheel wells

INTERIOR
- Stock maroon cloth in pretty good shape

SUSPENSION/WHEELS
- Stock suspension
- Stock 6 spoke wheels

AUDIO/ELECTRONICS
- OEM radio (doesn't appear to work)

FUTURE PLANS
- No mods planned, get it running , try to address cosmetic issues

Already has new radiator, exhaust (behind cat), and newer tires.
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90 LX 4dr 5 spd 382,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
92 EX coupe auto 196,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210341 Sold 11/11/19
07 Element EX AWD 183,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210623

INVENTORY REDUCTION! LOTS of CB7 parts - make me an offer http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=192583 or watch for banner ad at upper right

Last edited by fleetw00d; 09-11-2018 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:37 PM   #2
cp[mike]
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Looks good! Reminds me of my old '92 EX coupe (the one that got stolen), even down to the patch of missing paint on the passenger mirror...
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- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:44 AM   #3
wtfisafleek
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#12....really?? Looks like a good find.
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My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
Current mileage: 395150 11/21/19

My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:09 PM   #4
fleetw00d
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First repair - put a fender liner clip in the brake pedal arm hole to actuate the switch so the brake lights don't drain the battery. Hopefully the battery will respond to the charger.

June 14, 2018: Quick vacuum and wipe down of the interior.

92 EX int front by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

92 EX int rear by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

June 16, 2018: Power washed trunk carpeting and floor mats. Started disassembly for head removal.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 06-16-2018 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:43 PM   #5
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OOoo, a sunroof ... I spy Ruby in the background ...
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http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ighlight=wagon
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PakaloloHonda View Post
OOoo, a sunroof ... I spy Ruby in the background ...
Actually, that's Rose, my other 92 EX coupe - opposite this one - red on the outside, gray on the inside.

June 29, 2018: Head is off, removed rocker assembly and cam. The head is grungy enough that I'll probably pull the valves and have it cleaned and install new seals. Parts starting to arrive. Planning to take July 5 and 6 off to make some progress on this, my wife's Pilot (one of her rear shock blew leaving a puddle of oil on the driveway, needs brake pads too), and other projects.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 07-01-2018 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:58 AM   #7
hiptech
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Congrats on another splendid acquisition! I have hard enough time keeping track of three cars how do you manage your fleet? Do u maintain your service records on an Excel spreadsheet, hand written in a book or just scraps of paper floating everywhere?
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:52 PM   #8
fleetw00d
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I'm not sure how splendid it is, like most rescue projects, the more you work on it the more you find that needs to be addressed.

I have an Excel spreadsheet for each vehicle, although I'm not always good about entering every little thing.

July 7, 2018: Head went to the shop, installed new heater hoses, oil cooler seal, water pump, crank seal, balance shaft seal and retainer, timing belt (loose on top), balance shaft belt, oil pan gasket, fuel filter and bracket. The oil pan had been hit from below; I was able to flatten the bottom of it again. The exhaust system is relatively new from cat back; but the flex pipe isn't so great and the front studs/nuts at the converter are rusted all to heck. I think I can replace the studs on the converter. Contemplating a ebay low cost header/flex pipe combination (cheaper than OEM style flex pipe) and keeping the A6 exhaust manifold for possibly converting the wagon from A1 to A6 (already have a head - needs to be rebuilt - and intake manifold). Clay barred and waxed passenger fender and door to see how well they'd clean up.

July 10, 2018: Bad news from the shop, the head is cracked in two places. Dug out the head from the SE rescue project and started disassembling that, looks like every valve is bent. Hopefully I can get one good head from two and be left with a set of A6 valve springs and cam that could still be used for an upgrade on an A1. If the head is bad, the cam retainers in the rocker assembly are machined to match the head, so they are basically unusable as well, correct?

July 12, 2018: That was quick. Dropped the second head at the shop yesterday, it checked okay, ready for pickup this afternoon. Almost a shame to put this refurbished head on a rescue project.

July 17, 2018: Disassembled and cleaned the intake manifold including throttle body and EGR passages, thermostat housing, installed new thermostat in housing; can't find a second plenum gasket locally to reassemble. Made sure all valve adjusting screws and nuts were free.

Sept. 4, 2018: Haven't been able to spend a lot of time on this one. Have the head, timing belts, intake manifold, new hoses, rebuilt PS pump, and alternator reinstalled. Got oil pressure when cranking without the plugs. Need to clean up and install the exhaust manifold before attempting to fire it. I want to make sure it runs before I address the other issues with the car.

Sept. 10, 2018: It's alive! After installing the exhaust manifold and a set of plugs, it fired up. Very loud running with nothing attached to the manifold - my wife thought I had a Harley in the driveway. Had a fuel leak at the supply line (forgot to tighten it). Still have a small one at the #3 injector; I think I used aftermarket o-rings. I'll get a set of OEM o-rings and replace them all again. Managed to drill out the cut studs on the OEM catalytic converter, just need a flex pipe and some bolts to put the exhaust together. Buying a new O2 sensor (old one was welded into the bad flex pipe); I'll put the new one in Ruby and install Ruby's in here. Did a similar thing with the battery, installed a new one in Ruby and put the used one in here (5 year old DieHard Gold, but still starts fine).

92 Rosewood EX Engine by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Pleasant surprise: Started it today and let it idle a while to bake the high temp paint on the exhaust manifold cover and valve cover. Tried the AC and it works! It looks like it is still R12 in the system.

Sept. 12, 2018: The left headlight bracket was broken - looks like it took a light hit there - the glass was intact, but the support above it was pushed back about 5/8 inch. Was able to pry it back out. The radiator support needs a little straightening as well unless someone out there has a good Rosewood Brown support.

Sept. 13, 2018: Installed new left axle and seal, left outer tie rod. Looks like lower ball joints and upper control arms have already been replaced, no play and the boots are in good condition.

Sept. 15, 2018: Straightened the radiator support as best I could, also had to work some more on the bulkhead above the headlight to get it to fit correctly. Flex pipe arrived yesterday, installed complete exhaust. Started it up, then panicked when it started to belch white smoke. Didn't smell like coolant, fuel, or oil - smelled like wet firewood. Shut it down and separated the cat from the flex pipe and restarted it - exhaust was clear as can be there. Reconnected it and restarted - more smoke. Took about ten minutes with operation up to 4000 rpm to bake out whatever water must have been sitting in the B pipe and muffler.

Sept. 20, 2018: Redid the brakes on the left front (cleaned up rotors, painted, new brake pads). Cleaned up the rotor on the right side. While running (used the car to turn the rotor while I cleaned with abrasive disc) I had coolant draining off the back of the engine - traced it to the water pipe to thermostat housing joint. I had installed a new o-ring, not sure what went wrong. Upper ball joint had noticeable play, so replaced that. Installed new outer tie rod. Need to install new brake pads. Picked up a new o-ring for the water pipe.

Oct. 2, 2018: Installed o-ring for water pipe. Installed new rear calipers and pads. Cleaned up rotors. Installed NOS OEM rear shocks on the springs, but the lower knuckle bushing is so stiff that I can't get the bolt to line up through the bottom of the shock - removed those bushings today, will get new ones tomorrow. Went to bleed the brakes this evening; RF bleeder screw broke (rats!); screw extractor broke trying to get it out. Had a spare caliper, so I'm cleaning that up.

Nov. 6, 2018: Installed new front shock/spring assemblies. Got the brakes worked out. RF caliper was clamping the outer pad because the small grommet on the end of the top slider pin was trapping grease at the bottom of the hole. Drove it down the street (don't have plates on it yet). Painted the radiator support and the sections of the front bulkhead above the headlights (practice for doing rust repair on quarters). Steering is a bit clunky, hoping that works itself out some with more driving. I had already installed rebuilt pump.

March 14, 2018: This one sat while I tore apart Rose. Transferred the plate from Rose so I could drive it legally. Driving it worked the air out of the PS system. Tweaked the tie rods to get the steering wheel straight. My local Tire Discounters used to do free alignment checks; with the toe information I should be able to calculate how much to adjust the tie rods. Drove it about 60 miles today, runs pretty well. Unfortunately, it sat in the rain Saturday and the driver side footwells were both soaked; not sure where it is coming in. It was sitting nose down in the driveway (sloped slightly away from the house); with it parked nose up, it hasn't leaked.

March 17, 2019: I spent the last couple days tracking the leak down. When pouring a bucket of water over the top of the door, it would run out the front bottom end of the body opening weatherstrip. Pulling that off, the water was draining from the bottom of the pinch weld all the way up to to the top. Also noticed some water on the inside of the top left corner of the windshield. I pulled the chrome trim from above the door and replaced all the clip gaskets. Pulled the left side windshield trim, the left end of the top trim, and the channel strip. Replaced the torn up door weatherstrip with the one from Rose. Also adjusted the door to account for some sag from the worn hinge. While I had the fender liner loose, tried to undo a dent in the fender. In the first inch or so of the trough, the sealer was cracked. Cleaned, sanded this area some, took some loose rubber out from around the top corner of the windshield, then sealed these areas with liquid Flex Seal. It passed the bucket leak test this afternoon. I put an extra coat of Flex Seal on, then put it all back together.

April 6, 2019: Had it aligned today, but they couldn't break the left rear adjusting bolt loose. I suppose I'll swap in one of my sets of rear control arms/cross members with loose adjusting bolts. Also figured out why it turns over slow even with a fully charged battery:

20190406_204950 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Replaced it with another cable in better shape.

April 9, 2019: Swapped rear cross member and lower control arms last night. Will get it back to complete the alignment.

June 18, 2019: My daughter is driving this while I work on her Element. Stopped by today with a flat tire, intermittent transmission code 7 (shift solenoid A) and ECU code 12 (EGR). Couldn't get to a tire store quick enough to have the tire patched; had to use a can of Fix-a-Flat. It appears to have stopped the leak (long screw in the tire). Replaced the shift solenoid pair with ones from Rose's transmission. Going to leave the EGR alone for now; I had previously replaced the valve and maybe even the control black box.

June 28, 2019: It's always something. Daughter reported that is has started cutting out briefly (up to a few seconds); tach was jumpy above 4,000 rpm. Ran over to Indy yesterday evening and swapped the distributor, made sure the thermostat ground was tight (loosened and retightened), checked the fuel pump connector (in good shape) and main relay (best looking one I've ever seen). Short test drive with multiple runs to 6,000 rpm and it acted normal. She reported no problems today. I think I'll need to prepare another distributor though, the one I put had some oil in it.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 06-28-2019 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 09-28-2019, 09:58 PM   #9
fleetw00d
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Got this one back from my daughter today. She did about a 3500 mile test drive for me over the last 4 months. It needs some more brake work before I put it on the market, they just don't grab very well. I have a set of machined rotors for the front.
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Any idea why Honda leaves part of that cable exposed? My RSX's was like that, too, so when I replaced all the wiring off the battery with brand new OEM harnesses, I made sure to wrap that section in plumber's tape and then heat shrink.
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
Any idea why Honda leaves part of that cable exposed? My RSX's was like that, too, so when I replaced all the wiring off the battery with brand new OEM harnesses, I made sure to wrap that section in plumber's tape and then heat shrink.
My understanding is that cables "sweat" (condensate) and need to breath. If fully wrapped it can potentially trap condensation. (bet it will never do this from sweating though)
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:15 AM   #12
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I could see that happening if the cable passed from a place at one temperature to another place that's a different temperature (like the engine-to-ECU harness, which isn't exposed like that), but that ground cable's maybe a couple feet long and it's all in basically the same place. Just guessing, though, I couldn't even pretend to be an engineer...
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Old 10-05-2019, 10:18 PM   #13
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Installed the machined rotors; used a Scotchbrite disk on the pads,; brakes felt much better on a short test drive.

Cleaned it up some today, still had a lot of red pinstripe left from doing the Element:

20191006_155642 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20191006_160658 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20191012_183943 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Oct. 7, 2019: Transmission was shifting hard and seemed too soon. Did a drain and fill and lengthened the transmission throttle cable some. It acted more normal afterward.

Power washed engine compartment:
20191009_185942 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

This one is now on the market; unfortunately, I was going to try to do some of the body work, but I'm too far underwater on it already. I'll include some repair panels and paint if the buyer wants them. It served my daughter well while I worked on her Element.

Nov. 9, 2019: Sale pending.

Nov. 11, 2019: Sold today.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 11-11-2019 at 08:17 PM.
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