Myths, misconceptions, and misinformation...

[Dv8]

*General Honda misconception* -That they are difficult to work on.

[wed3k]

MYTH: A/C and P/S weigh a lot and provide significant weight savings when removed

BUST: All the P/S stuff weighs about 10# tops, and ALL the A/C stuff, lines, compressor, condensor, evaporator, weighs about 40#, TOPS. I bought my car without it, and recently put back the bulk of the A/C stuff, and it feels EXACTLY THE SAME. The front end isn't lower and it's not slower at any noticeable level. Do they slow you down when they're on... YEA... but IMO it's stupid to take that stuff out on a daily driver...

every pound counts in a race car, even when you get below the allowable weight. that is when you use ballast at your advantage.

so it would depend more on the application.

it was dyno'd on a civic that removed p/s gained 4 hp to the wheels as well. (how to build honda horsepower)

[gloryaccordy]

every pound counts in a race car, even when you get below the allowable weight. that is when you use ballast at your advantage.

so it would depend more on the application.

it was dyno'd on a civic that removed p/s gained 4 hp to the wheels as well. (how to build honda horsepower)

Well on a race car or something like uslspct's car I could definitely understand. But if your CB is your only car, IMO, there's no reason to punish yourself for 50#

[Dv8]

If you have a well tuned chassis, and really have a feel for your car, you WILL notice 40-50 lbs difference.

[93EXaesthetic]

interesting thread

*non car related*

a woman cant get pregnant if shes on top....gravity

*knocked up* hahaha

lol.. my loads defy gravity

[turbomaxx]

intake/header/exhaust means your car is super fast.

[Accord R33]

My contribution:

myth: A turbo motor requires more "maintenance" than a non-turbo motor.

myth: A turbo puts more stress on the motor than an N/A build of equal HP.

[Dv8]

myth: A turbo motor requires more "maintenance" than a non-turbo motor.

More frequent oil changes recommended. lol.

[gloryaccordy]

If you have a well tuned chassis, and really have a feel for your car, you WILL notice 40-50 lbs difference.

40-50# on a CB is about 2% of it's curb weight... that's 2% more acceleration in all directions. I really don't think you would feel much of a difference...

Being able to drive in the heat and rain with your windows closed >>>>> .01 seconds in the 1320

*EDIT* Also, a turbo motor of equal HP of a N/A motor WILL put more stress on the internals as turbo motors almost always make more torque than their N/A counterparts, just by the nature of how turbo motors operate... they run at much higher cylinder pressures, that makes for more stress on the motor

[Dv8]

40-50# on a CB is about 2% of it's curb weight... that's 2% more acceleration in all directions. I really don't think you would feel much of a difference...

I havnt played around with a cb7 chassis all that much, so really I dont know, right?

With my Skyline, I can notice the most subtle change, if theres a spare tire, even if the small tool case is in the back seat. I am guessing, when and if I have an Accord set up similar to the Nissan, I will be able to notice the same inconsistancies.

[d112crzy]

Mine are fine

YOU THINK they are fine.

You don't know any better because you've never had any personal experience.

Eric took what I was gona say. damn him.

[deevergote]

its not wrong...the common misconception is to throw on all this suspension mods without even taking a look at tires.

this si coming from experience and thank god im still alive otherwise id be somewhere down the mountain if i would have spun out the other direction.

What you said is certainly correct... but this thread is to point out misconceptions and misinformation. Therefore, your statement appears to be saying that it is untrue that tires are a good modification for twisties.




And Eric, I would have to disagree about the turbo engines requiring more maintenance. Perhaps not a significant amount, but it depends very much on the equipment used. If you don't have a turbo timer and decide to simply cut the engine immediately after a stop time after time, you're going to have coking issues. "maintenance" isn't really applicable, but it requires more attention. There are more things to be aware of with a turbo car. I agree that the misinformation floating around about it is limited to "maintenance" and often no details are given about what that entails.






To add to the list:

The more air you let out of your tires at the drag strip, the more traction you get.
Wrong.
Going from 32psi to 28psi might help a little by increasing the contact patch and allowing a little flex in the tire upon acceleration. Take that to 15psi or less so they look like wrinkle slicks, and you're only going to make things worse. Radial tires are made to be properly inflated. Underinflate one a significant amount, and your contact patch will buckle, causing you to put the majority of your tires' force on the sidewall. I don't know about you, but the last time I looked at my tires, the sidewalls don't really strike me as being made to give lots of traction!
Let out a little air, ok. Let out a lot of air... buy some real slicks.

[AccordWarrior]

That JDM is the end all of the Honda world.

[bruno8747]

H23 Sleeves are Iron Like the F22. They are FRM just like the H22.

A DSM turbo setup is Reliable on our engines....I'm talking over 1 year full time use.

[d112crzy]

h22/h23 sleeves are weak. They can't handle boost.

They can handle boost well enough. They just can't handle idiots.