help please

[TAHcb7]

where can i get an ecu ? how much and what would be the suggested type or brand i get, i have a pretty much bone stock 1990 cb7

[AccordWarrior]

where can i get an ecu ? how much and what would be the suggested type or brand i get, i have a pretty much bone stock 1990 cb7

You stock?

The only ECU that is potentially going to gain you anything is a P12 out of a 92-96 Prelude S.

The Prelude S had the F22a1 and was factory rated at 135 hp, where the Accord DX/LX had 125 hp out of it's F22a1.

You could find it at your local junkyard, Ebay, or the classifieds on here when you hit 30 posts. Price is really up to you as far as what you want to pay; the local yard near me charges about $35 per ECU.

Anything else isn't going to help you at this point.

[TAHcb7]

You stock?

The only ECU that is potentially going to gain you anything is a P12 out of a 92-96 Prelude S.

The Prelude S had the F22a1 and was factory rated at 135 hp, where the Accord DX/LX had 125 hp out of it's F22a1.

You could find it at your local junkyard, Ebay, or the classifieds on here when you hit 30 posts. Price is really up to you as far as what you want to pay; the local yard near me charges about $35 per ECU.

Anything else isn't going to help you at this point.

after i get the p12 what do u think i should put in my car next? im just trying to get suggestions, im new to this,

[AccordWarrior]

after i get the p12 what do u think i should put in my car next? im just trying to get suggestions, im new to this,

Really depends on what you want to do with the car...

I'd personally upgrade suspension before I'd go through the motor. I had I/H/E on my car and it wasn't noticeably faster than it was in stock form. My Mom's bone stock 90 EX with an automatic felt noticeably faster than my 90 LX with I/H/E.

I'd say do the suspension and then swap it if you want more power, unless you're willing to build the F internally (ie cams, etc). It's a more expensive route. Turbo is nice, but with the cars as old as they are, you're going to have to really know what you're doing before you just slap a turbo on.

[TAHcb7]

Really depends on what you want to do with the car...

I'd personally upgrade suspension before I'd go through the motor. I had I/H/E on my car and it wasn't noticeably faster than it was in stock form. My Mom's bone stock 90 EX with an automatic felt noticeably faster than my 90 LX with I/H/E.

I'd say do the suspension and then swap it if you want more power, unless you're willing to build the F internally (ie cams, etc). It's a more expensive route. Turbo is nice, but with the cars as old as they are, you're going to have to really know what you're doing before you just slap a turbo on.

i have an 90 ex, automatic, what kind of suspension do u suggest?

[turboAccordHSF]

Really depends on what you want to do with the car...

I'd personally upgrade suspension before I'd go through the motor. I had I/H/E on my car and it wasn't noticeably faster than it was in stock form. My Mom's bone stock 90 EX with an automatic felt noticeably faster than my 90 LX with I/H/E.

I'd say do the suspension and then swap it if you want more power, unless you're willing to build the F internally (ie cams, etc). It's a more expensive route. Turbo is nice, but with the cars as old as they are, you're going to have to really know what you're doing before you just slap a turbo on.

Hey Accordwarrior this guy needs to fix his car b4 the mods don't you think....

listen bro(THAcb7) I'm not trying to be a dick dude ok, it will be best if you fix the car up to normal 100% b4 moding it!...I'm 17 and i'm having a kid but b4 i got performance parts or started doing upgrades I actually fixed my car and made it 100% by asking these fellas right here in cb7tuner.comthey gave me all the details then i started asking them for suggestions on what to do next......

[TAHcb7]

Hey Accordwarrior this guy needs to fix his car b4 the mods don't you think....

listen bro(THAcb7) I'm not trying to be a dick dude ok, it will be best if you fix the car up to normal 100% b4 moding it!...I'm 17 and i'm having a kid but b4 i got performance parts or started doing upgrades I actually fixed my car and made it 100% by asking these fellas right here in cb7tuner.comthey gave me all the details then i started asking them for suggestions on what to do next......

no its cool, but i did fix up my body a little, ill put up new pictures today, it looks alot better

[deevergote]

The ECU isn't something you really need to worry about now. The gains are minimal. The P12 will help a little, but there are other things worth doing.

Fix the car up, make it run right, be sure the brakes and suspension are right... then get to work modding it. You have 2 options... spend money to make REAL power, or drop a little here and there on cheap crap parts, to make a fairly unnoticeable amount of power. It's up to you... but if you're looking for a nice gain, ebay crap such as a header and exhaust for $100 a pop aren't going to get you anything worthwhile.

[visualpoet]

I've gotta disagree with AW and oddly, deeve. Suspension is nice, but I have had measurable gains from each performance upgrade I've done. It's possible that his ride is weaker than his Mom's. Each car is different. And the butt dyno isn't accurate. Just because he doesn't feel the difference doesn't mean it's not there. Many guys feel a lot more improvement than they actually get. You can't judge a mod by the feel. I ran about 112 whp stock, but with the SRI and header, I was running 118 whp and it was a noticable improvement when I added them. I've finished the exhaust and thrown in a p12 and I'm up to 146 whp. All my numbers are figured using my actual 1/4 mile times and weight of the car with me in it. My dyno numbers will be a little higher because of loss of wind resistance and other enviromental variables. I also have a Beltronix Vector Accelerometer to track changes and performance numbers. I've calibrated it to reflect my actual hp, and it makes it easy to track my improvemants.

I'd say if you want to do any build, be patient, shop eBay, craigslist and the classifieds here (after you get your 30 posts in) and buy things as they come along. If you're patient, you can find things retardedly cheap. My entire exhaust cost me a few gallons of gas and my OEM exhaust. My SRI (Weapon-R Hyper) was $10 and some gas. P12 - $54 off eBay. I'm happier with those pieces than I would be with a suspension upgrade, although that will happen when the price is right.

And when tAHSF says get your car 100%, he means mechanically. Make sure it's tuned up, the oil is changed, leaks fixed, problems solved. You can mod a beat up POS, but it's hard on the car. If something is rattling, knocking, flopping around in the breeze, fix it before you mod. I look at it as a broken part is an opportunity to upgrade.

[deevergote]

146whp? That's about what HondaFan81 made with a worked head, cam, kamikaze header, full exhaust, and a dyno tune. Simple, inexpensive bolt-ons aren't going to make that much, certainly. If for some reason they did, you likely have a freak motor.


Intakes can be cheap, as long as the filters are good (that is mainly for the safety of the engine, not for power). Headers are a waste of money unless you get quality. Unfortunately, the Bisimoto header is the only one really worth getting. Adding a larger collector to a cheaper DC header would give some improvement, though.

A cam upgrade is one of the better things you can do.






When I said brakes and suspension, I meant to make sure everything was fresh and new. Slamming on cheap crap coilovers is not "fixing the suspension". I meant that he should replace bushings, ball joints, worn struts, etc... If he wants to lower the car, I certainly recommend quality components. I'm the other way around. As much as I like my power (and I have a fair amount), I spend much more time turning than I do accelerating at full throttle. Nothing feels better than a responsive turn-in.

[visualpoet]

146whp? That's about what HondaFan81 made with a worked head, cam, kamikaze header, full exhaust, and a dyno tune. Simple, inexpensive bolt-ons aren't going to make that much, certainly. If for some reason they did, you likely have a freak motor.


Intakes can be cheap, as long as the filters are good (that is mainly for the safety of the engine, not for power). Headers are a waste of money unless you get quality. Unfortunately, the Bisimoto header is the only one really worth getting. Adding a larger collector to a cheaper DC header would give some improvement, though.

A cam upgrade is one of the better things you can do.






When I said brakes and suspension, I meant to make sure everything was fresh and new. Slamming on cheap crap coilovers is not "fixing the suspension". I meant that he should replace bushings, ball joints, worn struts, etc... If he wants to lower the car, I certainly recommend quality components. I'm the other way around. As much as I like my power (and I have a fair amount), I spend much more time turning than I do accelerating at full throttle. Nothing feels better than a responsive turn-in.

Hurray for a freak motor then! I'll take my power wherever I can get it. I'm turning the 1/4 in 16.2 at 85ish mph. I didn't realize there were people out there that really had to work to get those numbers. Maybe I'll start calling the coupe "freak". And while I love bisi's header, I wouldn't say it's the only one worth getting. The average joe can't drop $800 or more for the small gains it's going to give him. For my needs, I can't see it giving me $800 worth of performance increase (although at least $200 of that is pure sex WOW! factor when you open the hood. Maybe I can charge people $5 a peek to look at it and it will pay for itself in no time). If he's BUILDING his engine, then it's certainly justifiable, but most of us aren't really doing that and could use the money better somewhere else.

And sorry, I totally agree on the suspension. 90% of the time when I hear someone talk about suspension, they mean coil-overs and a drop. It's very important to have your suspension mechanically correct. Bad bushings, links, balljoints can all be dangerous and will rob you of performance.

[deevergote]

Honestly, I'd say a bone stock CB7 with brand new suspension components would handle better than a "slammed" car on tired bits. If you're riding on jello, it doesn't matter how low you are!


The Bisi header is really the only one out there that gives a noticeable gain. The others MIGHT give 5hp. Paired with an intake and exhaust, and an F22A1 might see an extra 15whp TOPS. The same goes for the H22. If you don't spend a chunk of change on a header, you won't see worthwhile gains... which is exactly why I don't have a header on my motor yet! (the Bisimoto H22 header will be on my car eventually) The Bisi header on the F22A PROBABLY gives somewhere in the neighborhood of 15-20whp (I have no proof of this, but I'm going by what similarly well-designed headers do for the H22A). That does, of course, depend on other modifications as well.

So, you could spend $200 on an AEM CAI, $300 on a DC Sports header, and $400 on an Apexi WS2 exhaust. Or, you could spend $10 on a cheap short ram, $150 on a cheap exhaust system, and $800 on a Bisimoto header. The ovrall cost is about the same, and the gains are greater with the Bisimoto header, I would say. The other stuff can be upgraded later. Just my thoughts.


93twodoorLX ran a 15.9 with his F22A1 (before the H23 manifold swap). He weighs about 150lbs, and he pulled every easily removable part out of the interior (no trunk contents, no door panels, no console, just a driver's seat).

146whp SHOULD pull a CB7 down the quarter mile in about 15.6-15.4 seconds. My H22 makes about 20whp over that, and I barely get out of the 15s.

[visualpoet]

93twodoorLX ran a 15.9 with his F22A1 (before the H23 manifold swap). He weighs about 150lbs, and he pulled every easily removable part out of the interior (no trunk contents, no door panels, no console, just a driver's seat).

146whp SHOULD pull a CB7 down the quarter mile in about 15.6-15.4 seconds. My H22 makes about 20whp over that, and I barely get out of the 15s.

Well, the coupe is 2850 lbs, I'm 200+, I've got about another 100 in electronics and miscellaneous crap bringing me up to 3150 lbs. Maybe the extra weight slows me down a little from what you're expecting to see. But the numbers tell me that at that weight, time and trap speed, I've got about146 whp (there's a small deviation between ET hp and trap speed hp, less than 2 hp, I think). I've ran the 1/4, checked my weights, checked several online hp calculators and done the math myself just to be sure.

HP calculator, torque calc, etc.

http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_horsepo...apsed_time.php

[deevergote]

I suppose that could be right... Putting in my car at 2900lbs (with 93twodoorLX driving, and a similar weight reduction, it got 15.023) and it shows about 169whp... which should be about right for my mods at the time.

Still doesn't seem right, though. Cisco's F22A made about 150whp with a fair amount of work... Weird.

[visualpoet]

I'm telling you deeve, this car is blessed. I paid $710 for it, and I have less than $500 more in it. Free header, free exhaust, free HU, $100 in my box subs and amp, $20 strut brace, free front tires.(potenza g009s), $55 p12, made my money back on the rims by parting out the SE I bought to get them, free not available in the USA centercaps for the rims, plus an internet friend at Kosei japan. I even am surprised at the performance level I've achieved, but I'll take it. You couldn't buy this car stock for what I have in it.

Someday I'll start dropping real money into her, but until then I have a phenomenal ride for CHEAP. lol