map sensor vacume line, collapse?

[peekin]

if my vacume line going to my map sensor were to collapse under high rpm or normal driving this should cut off the vacume going to the sensor and the car should quit right? then at idle there is less vacume the collapsed hose will open and the car should start running again? i'm just wondering if this thought is correct or on the right path to solving my accord problem

[toycar]

if my vacume line going to my map sensor were to collapse under high rpm or normal driving this should cut off the vacume going to the sensor and the car should quit right? then at idle there is less vacume the collapsed hose will open and the car should start running again? i'm just wondering if this thought is correct or on the right path to solving my accord problem

Not impossible, not very likely either.


Whats the deal w/the car? Whats wrong w/it? Have you considered replacing the vac line, to rule out this possibility? Vac lines are about .50

[peekin]

i'm gonna give that a try here in about an hour or 2, i need some more coffee and a couple of cigarettes first, its flippin cold outside up here in canada lol i'm sick of the snow too

[visualpoet]

Your car creates more vacuum at idle than at high rpms. I think you're going down the wrong path.

[peekin]

good to know , thanks for the input, regardless for the price of a new line i prob will change it, 21 year old line it could be rotted lol

[GhostAccord]

If the vacuum is cut off from the MAP sensor it should throw a code and the check engine light would come on before it quit.

There is more noticeable vacuum at idle with a closed throttle than at high RPM with an open throttle. However, if you were to push the car up to a high rpm and then close the throttle rapidly. That would cause a vacuum spike and a drastic reduction in fuel should follow. But it shouldn't stall or quit, the ECU is equipped with what is called a fuel cut. Usually activated when it reads high vacuum (MAP) with a high rpm (VSS).

What is the problem that you are having? Is your car cutting out under certain load conditions or throttle positions? Is the check engine light on?

[peekin]

yea it will just cut out like its not getting fuel, it will sit there and idle perfect all day but once you start driving it will work ok for about a minute then it will just die, if i press in the clutch the tach will go down to idle it will spit and sputter then idle fine, drive along for another minute just fine then die again

[toycar]

Getting any check engine lights?

Describe the sounds/symptoms better. doesnt really sounds like a MAP problem.

[peekin]

so i changed the map sensor and its doing the same thing, idles fine now when you rev it up it skips ?

[GhostAccord]

Check your plugs, wires, cap, rotor and test your coil. Sounds more like an ignition or possibly a fuel issue.

[92F20Bhatch]

yeah your car actually creates no vaccum while accelerating

[peekin]

when you pull the plug wire out of the cap while the car is running should the fire be bright blue or orange? because mine is flickering blue then orange at times

[GhostAccord]

Should be bright blue, orange is a week spark.

[peekin]

so the way things are looking my distributor is going

[GhostAccord]

When was the last time you did an ignition tuneup? It's probably not your entire distributor, could just be your cap and rotor, maybe even just be your plugs and wires. It kind of sounds like you just need an ignition tune up.

Spark plugs - NGK
Spark plug wires - SUMITOMO
Distributor Cap - TEC
Distributor Rotor - TEC

You should also test your coil (TEC) and ignitor (NEC/ELESYS) as well.