Replacing Clutch help

[rawb_dbap]

Sup guise, i gotta 92 cb stock, i was reading on here that it's useless getting an expensive racing clutch so i wanted to know if i should get an Exedy OEM replacement clutch ? also what else should i change now that i drop the tranny? what kinda flywheel would be good also? thanks

[tJoodz]

It would be useless to get a more expensive clutch when your stock. You aren't making enough power to have anything more than the OEM clutch. The Exedy OEM replacement clutch is a good one for you to choose. It's a good reliable clutch.

When installing your clutch make sure you use some blue loctite on your pressure plate bolts and your flywheel bolts.

The vibration can make them get loose and make you have to drop your transmission again. Make sure you torque everything down to spec and in a criscross pattern.

As far as a flywheel it kind of depends on your goals. A lighter flywheel is good for N/A. You will notice a huge difference between how touchy your gas pedal is when you first take off and it will rev up faster.

If I were you, I would replace the throwout bearing while you have the transmission out.

[rawb_dbap]

It would be useless to get a more expensive clutch when your stock. You aren't making enough power to have anything more than the OEM clutch. The Exedy OEM replacement clutch is a good one for you to choose. It's a good reliable clutch.

When installing your clutch make sure you use some blue loctite on your pressure plate bolts and your flywheel bolts.

The vibration can make them get loose and make you have to drop your transmission again. Make sure you torque everything down to spec and in a criscross pattern.

As far as a flywheel it kind of depends on your goals. A lighter flywheel is good for N/A. You will notice a huge difference between how touchy your gas pedal is when you first take off and it will rev up faster.

If I were you, I would replace the throwout bearing while you have the transmission out.

alright cool, thanks. So the lighter the flywheel the more delicate it is when revving? and stuff?

[Granite CB7]

Def. make sure your rear main seal isn't leaking. Also, lightly lube the splines on the input shaft so the disk is able to slide nicely. Also lube both pivot ball posts for release fork. Also, when the tranny is out, check the condition of your rear motor mount, it's so much easier to get out now, esp. is it's the tall EX manual mount.

I'm still on the fence about light f/w's. I ran the stocker for years, then went to a Bisimoto 8.9lb f/w (actual weight 9 lb 13 oz, go figure) and then eventually went back to stock f/w. Bisi wasn't bad at all, didn't experience a real loss in inertia but also didn't notice a real gain either. I mean, once you get the stocker spining, that'll be inertia that will work for you. That's how I look @ it at least.

H series tranny>light weight f/w IMO.

[Fleetw00d]

I simply had my existing flywheel resurfaced. The other thing that should be replaced while the transmission it out is the rear main crank seal on tbe block. You can either replace the seal in the plate that mounts to tbe block (requires proper installation depth), or buy the plate with the new seal already installed.

[deevergote]

I ran a lightweight flywheel, and I liked it. It takes some getting used to, though. I stalled a few times because the RPMs would drop more rapidly when I let off the gas.

Better than just checking the rear main seal, you should simply replace it. If that seal fails, your engine is going to be toast. Better safe than sorry!
Also, use a throwout bearing from Honda. I've heard the bearings that come with the Exedy kits are good, and they probably are... but I ran an aftermarket bearing in my car, and it failed... frying everything clutch-related.

[93redcb7]

Sup guise, i gotta 92 cb stock, i was reading on here that it's useless getting an expensive racing clutch so i wanted to know if i should get an Exedy OEM replacement clutch ? also what else should i change now that i drop the tranny? what kinda flywheel would be good also? thanks

if you plan on doing a bunch of motor work then yes get better than oem... but if not oem would be just fine.
agree with everyone else with replacing rear main

[deevergote]

An OEM replacement clutch will handle H22A power... so you'd need to do SERIOUS work (or turbo) to require anything stronger. A stronger clutch will wear the flywheel and pressure plate faster... much like racing brake pads eat rotors.

[Granite CB7]

A small upgrade would be buying an Exedy H22 clutch as opposed to an F22 clutch, just an idea/thought.

[deevergote]

From what I could tell, they're essentially the same thing... it's been a while since I actually looked into it, though.

[Granite CB7]

Going by Honda PN's, H22 clutch is a p13 plate, GSR, yes DC2 GSR P72 disk. Accord is well, Accord parts, PTO IIRC on the plate and disk.

[deevergote]

Interesting. I wonder if there's a real difference between the parts. I suppose there would be, if the numbers are different...

[Granite CB7]

^it is, do I actually know if this clutch can hold more torque or is more sporty, no. But I mean on paper a p13 plate should have alittle more holding power. A p72 disk on paper should also be slightly better than the accord's disk.

[deevergote]

That is true. And seeing as it's still made for a relatively mild factory car (wow... calling 200hp N/A mild...) it should still work just as well as stock, and provide a bit more holding power for mods.

[rawb_dbap]

A small upgrade would be buying an Exedy H22 clutch as opposed to an F22 clutch, just an idea/thought.

will it fit though? first time actually changing my clutch..?