Does anyone know how to make a positive and negative post terminals in the engine bay

[likwid2u]

or..............http://www.daymotorsports.com/proddisp.php?ln=9297

[cloudasc]

To the op, have you ever looked into Jumper Terminals? Alot of RACE cars have the tiniest of motorcycle battery's which don't have enough CCA to turn over the motor, but are there to smooth out the alternators voltages the same way a capacitor does.

They usually mount "posts" in a location thats easily accessable on the car, typically bumpers.

When they want to start the car, they hook up a jumper pack to the posts, and crank.

Heres a quick example image:


Heres a link to them on Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...umper+terminal

[pike0825]

To the op, have you ever looked into Jumper Terminals? Alot of RACE cars have the tiniest of motorcycle battery's which don't have enough CCA to turn over the motor, but are there to smooth out the alternators voltages the same way a capacitor does.

They usually mount "posts" in a location thats easily accessable on the car, typically bumpers.

When they want to start the car, they hook up a jumper pack to the posts, and crank.

Heres a quick example image:


Heres a link to them on Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...umper+terminal

Ohh cool are those the terminals with the on/ off shutoff switch? Yeah something like that is Wat I'm looking for. Essentially I whant 2 posts( negative, positive) but I was thinking mounting it inside the engine bay. I don't really like the idea of having the battery posts sticking outside the car because somebody can just shot your battery if they wanted to lol

[cloudasc]

You can mount those terminals wherever you want. Look at that link I posted, there are mounting plates available for the terminals that you can use under the hood. The picture I posted is the most common application of them. That's why they are called "jumper terminals" or "remote battery terminals".

[MortsAccord]

Fuse, solderand insulate all new connections made. I would have use 1/0 gauge to relocate a battery. The only thing you really need is a distribution block. And that would be to jump a vehicle from the front.

To know if the power wire is large enough measure voltage from the frame to the alternators hot wire, then compare that to the positive battery terminal and ground with the car running. If the voltage is less in the rear then the connection is bad or the wire is too small.

[oyajicool]

There is a chart to know exactly what gage wire required for each application so you don't have to do trial-and-error.

[pike0825]

There is a chart to know exactly what gage wire required for each application so you don't have to do try-and-error.

I was thinking running 4 gauge wire for both post terminals.

[oyajicool]

Quickly glancing over the chart, #4 gage wire should do the job. But, wasn't there a wire/cable included in the re-locating kit?

[pike0825]

Quickly glancing over the chart, #4 gage wire should do the job. But, wasn't there a wire/cable included in the re-locating kit?

Well, when I relocated my battery I first used 4 gauge but then I heard that the longer the wire the more power you will loose so I upgraded to 2 gauge. I don't really need all the power I can get to these post terminals I will be mounting in the engine bay so I'm going to be using 4 gauge.

[oyajicool]

You'll need all the juice from battery when you are cranking the engine. If you have #2 gauge already, why not use it?

[pike0825]

You'll need all the juice from battery when you are cranking the engine. If you have #2 gauge already, why not use it?

I am Using 2 gauge wire to wire my alt. to fuse box and then fuse
Box to positive terminal on battery all with 2 gauge wire. Ima run 4 gauge wire from both the positive and negative on the battery all the way to the positive and negative post terminals I will essentially be mounting in the engine bay. Then I can just use those terminals in the engine bay to power up whatever I have to power up in the future ( like my msd ignition) using battery power( instead of running wire all the way to the battery I the trunk.) u get me?

[oyajicool]

I thought;
All you need to do is to relocate the battery.
Run the positive cable from new location into the engine bay to tie with the original positive cable along with the original wire that's run to the fuse box.
For negative, you can run another cable from battery into the bay tie with original negative cable.
Or, ground the negative post of the battery to chassis and ground the original negative to chassis.

There is no need to replace existing ALT out put cable with #2 gauge. There is no increase in demand for ALT power out put by relocating the battery. Unless you replace existing alternator with high out put alternator and, also, increase current demand by installing big amps for sound system. Even then, #2 gauge is overkill, to me.

Current demand is at highest during cranking. That is why you need beefier cable from positive terminal to starter motor regardless of location of battery.

But, what do I know, I am not chassis electric engineer.

[pike0825]

I thought;
All you need to do is to relocate the battery.
Run the positive cable from new location into the engine bay to tie with the original positive cable along with the original wire that's run to the fuse box.
For negative, you can run another cable from battery into the bay tie with original negative cable.
Or, ground the negative post of the battery to chassis and ground the original negative to chassis.

There is no need to replace existing ALT out put cable with #2 gauge. There is no increase in demand for ALT power out put by relocating the battery. Unless you replace existing alternator with high out put alternator and, also, increase current demand by installing big amps for sound system. Even then, #2 gauge is overkill, to me.

Current demand is at highest during cranking. That is why you need beefier cable from positive terminal to starter motor regardless of location of battery.

But, what do I know, I am not chassis electric engineer.

My battery is already relocatEd. I think your confused about what I was originally seeking help in. I'm just saying that my battery is in the trunk but I wish I had a possitive and negative post terminal ( not a whole battery, just post terminals) with powers so I can use them when needed.

[oyajicool]

I do believe I understood what you were asking. That is why I had suggested to fabricate a junction box within the engine bay to which positive cables and wires could come in and be protected from shorting out to the ground.

The word "junction box" didn't really ring a bell with you, I assume.

[MortsAccord]

Lol you guys crack me up.

Your forgetting that EVERYTHING METAL in your car is pretty much ground. All you need for ground is a nice post off a large bolt. This can be achieved by using flat stock, or just clamping anywhere in the engine bay/frame.

No wire is needed for ground, just pick a place to bolt something to that would allow you to hook things up to it. Like a distribution block. Im sure your local electrical store has one, or just google one.

The only difference with the positive, is that it must not touch anything. And it MUST be fused. Do you have a fuse in the rear of your car at the positive battery post? This should be around the same rating as the main fuse in your car. (100A I think). If not, and that wire gets shorted out, your car is going up in flames.

Bcae1.com check it out. Learn about fuses, or everything there. Great site.

Last but not least solder all your connections. Propane torch for sweating pipe and flux core solder/rosin core solder. They do also make solder paste, which usually comes in a pipe sweating kit, the solder in that kit is usually just solder and has no flux in it. This wont help you for shit, if a newbie trys to use that crap he's gonna end up pissed off with a mess everywhere. The advantage of flux core is your putting the cleaning agent right where you need it.