Does anyone know how to make a positive and negative post terminals in the engine bay

[oyajicool]

Lol you guys crack me up.


Your (You are) forgetting that EVERYTHING METAL in your car is pretty much ground. All you need for ground is a nice post off a large bolt. This can be achieved by using flat stock, or just clamping anywhere in the engine bay/frame.
If you read my post in regards to ground/negative, I have mentioned about use of chassis as a source ground. I included of running a separate cable for negative/ground into the engine compartment because there may be some electronics/equipment require a ground of it's own. Certain avionics equipments do so. So, I through that in there as an idea.

No wire is needed for ground, just pick a place to bolt something to that would allow you to hook things up to it. Like a distribution block. Im sure your local electrical store has one, or just google one.

The only difference with the positive, is that it must not touch anything. And it MUST be fused. Do you have a fuse in the rear of your car at the positive battery post? This should be around the same rating as the main fuse in your car. (100A I think). If not, and that wire gets shorted out, your car is going up in flames.
I would not install a fuse in the location you are calling for. If the current draw of cranking of engine surpass the current supported by the fuse, the fuse will blow and you'll be loosing all of electric power. Looking at the wiring diagram for the car, there is no fuse installed in the starting circuit, from positive post direct to the starter motor. However, you are correct about the need of good insulation for this positive cable.

Bcae1.com check it out. Learn about fuses, or everything there. Great site.

Last but not least solder all your connections. Propane torch for sweating pipe and flux core solder/rosin core solder. They do also make solder paste, which usually comes in a pipe sweating kit, the solder in that kit is usually just solder and has no flux in it. This wont help you for shit, if a newbie trys to use that crap he's gonna end up pissed off with a mess everywhere. The advantage of flux core is your putting the cleaning agent right where you need it.
I would no recommend the use of torch to solder electric wires of any size. Especially, insulation material used for automotive wires and cables may not withstand the excess heat. Potentially you'll be melting it before you realize. Also, wires and cables are much easier to run through fire wall and bulkheads with out terminals installed. That means you may have to use open flame for soldering terminal ends inside the car or engine bay after the cable is in place. I see this more of fire hazard than running un-fused positive wire/cable from back to the engine bay. If you use proper crimping tool for the size of terminals there is no need for soldering.

Well, this is my way of doing this project if it was mine to do.

[pike0825]

I do believe I understood what you were asking. That is why I had suggested to fabricate a junction box within the engine bay to which positive cables and wires could come in and be protected from shorting out to the ground.

The word "junction box" didn't really ring a bell with you, I assume.

Yeah, I get it lol.
As far as having a fuse in the rear by the battery, no I don't have one. Only the in line fuse from amp to battery. I don't feel the need of fusing anything because the only thing I did different from stock as far as relocating the battery is simply extend the wires all the way to the trunk( starter, fuse box) im guessing the fuse box takes care of that. Also, as far as soldering to any of my relocation mod, no I did not, I just crimped some proper terminals and insulated exposed terminal with insulation black tape. Anyway, thanks I will be using a junction box for my positive post and just use any chassi metal ground.

[evil_demon_01]

Yeah, I get it lol.
As far as having a fuse in the rear by the battery, no I don't have one. Only the in line fuse from amp to battery. I don't feel the need of fusing anything because the only thing I did different from stock as far as relocating the battery is simply extend the wires all the way to the trunk( starter, fuse box) im guessing the fuse box takes care of that. Also, as far as soldering to any of my relocation mod, no I did not, I just crimped some proper terminals and insulated exposed terminal with insulation black tape. Anyway, thanks I will be using a junction box for my positive post and just use any chassi metal ground.

If the positive cable cuts through and shorts on the chassis (for example through the firewall) that cable WILL set the car on fire and you will have NO way of putting it out.

You should really have a circuit breaker within a foot of the battery.

[oyajicool]

No.

What you need is a good insulation, good supports and grommets as needed to keep the cable from possibility of chafing with the chassis. This one goes with out saying regardless of having a circuit protection or not. You do this job properly and you should not have to install a circuit protection.

Having a circuit protection in that location may cause problem/INOP for cranking/starting the engine as I said already.

If you install a circuit protection there, I would recommend installing a shunt to by-pass it just in case that protection has tripped and you need to get out of that bad neighborhood.

Or, you could install a battery solenoid but doing so will require more wiring and mod to keep radio memory alive.

[evil_demon_01]

No.

What you need is a good insulation, good supports and grommets as needed to keep the cable from possibility of chafing with the chassis. This one goes with out saying regardless of having a circuit protection or not. You do this job properly and you should not have to install a circuit protection.

Yes, Otherwise why bother putting a fuse on an amp setup that draws FAR less than a main battery cable.


What happens if you have an accident?
In the OEM location, worst case only a foot of wire will glow red.

To the trunk, the whole length will glow, including the interior of the car . . .

[FatManChunk]

You could always wire in one of these "junction boxes" from a early Chevy truck. All the lugs are connected behind the molded plastic and it has two mounting holes(one on each side). If you wire one side directly to the battery, you can mount anything to it you needed and have a solid source for power. You could go ever further and put in a new Chevy truck "jumping post" boxes. Those two items would solve all your issues.

[FatManChunk]

The edit button only worked for one try so I must make a new post. In relation to my previous picture, it is actually called a "BUSS BLOCK". Early GM trucks were abundent with them.

And this is the "jumper post" thing i was talking about looks like this. Newer GM's like the Tahoe have them under the hood.

[pike0825]

Wow I didn't realized how hazzardous the 2 gauge power wire ( running from battery in trunk to under hood fuse box) can be. What size fuse should I use if I were to do this for safety precautions? And is it just like an amp in line fuse, if not how do u install a fuse like that? Those gm junction boxes is what I was looking for. Something like that. If anyone's got something like this installed in our cb7 I would like to see some pics. That will really help. Thanks a lot people.

[Other1]

There's two main wires coming out of the fuse box I hooked up the msd + to the left terminal that's fused and leads to the starter and the ground to the motor where the original battery wire ground goes. So, from the battery(trunk mounted) I use 2g wire fused(100amp) to the starter.

[oyajicool]

Yes, Otherwise why bother putting a fuse on an amp setup that draws FAR less than a main battery cable.


What happens if you have an accident?
In the OEM location, worst case only a foot of wire will glow red.

To the trunk, the whole length will glow, including the interior of the car . . .

I maintain aircrafts for living. All of aircrafts I work (12V or 24V system) does not have a circuit protection in starting circuit regardless of locations, let it be in the wings, behind of cabins or in engine compartment. Positive cable runs along with fuel lines, runs next to the fuel tanks and/or pilots depending on aircrafts. They do, however, have battery solenoids which are controlled manually.

This industry is very sensitive to crashes and conscious to safety, yet there's no circuit protection installed in the circuit involves starting the engine.

[oyajicool]

I was reading some posts on a forum catered for electric stuff.

One of posters on the forum was saying normal current draw on 2L size automotive engine being 60 to 200 amps when engine is hot and oil is thin. The poster went on to say that, "if engine is cold and oil is thick, these numbers can easily be doubled".

This makes the requirement for fuse capacity must be at least 400 amps for starting circuit.

The current draw will be much less once the engine is cranking.

[evil_demon_01]

Thats why you use a circuit breaker like I said, not a fuse.

[pike0825]

Thats why you use a circuit breaker like I said, not a fuse.

How do I do that exactly? Links?

[oyajicool]

My point is not what is used as a circuit protection.

Let it be a 400 amp circuit breaker or fuse, it will be troublesome for the operator/driver if it keeps popping because of low OAT and cranking needs. The engine will never start in such case.

I've never seen this in person but I'm guessing the cable would be mighty hot to trip the 400 amp circuit protection. It could be red hot at the location where the insulation is breached in case of an accident, which could be a fire hazard already. And, having 400 amp protection may not be enough for cold cranking. By raising the capacity to meet CCA of the battery will further increase the chance of fire hazard.

I have recommended of having a shunt to by-pass the circuit protection earlier in this thread in case of tripping. Now I have another solution. I suggest to install a manually operated N/O solenoid to by-pass the circuit protection during cranking. Call it starting solenoid rather than battery solenoid. With this solenoid installed, you can reduce the capacity of the circuit protection down to 100 amp or whatever the capacity the Honda manual calls for.

This solenoid can be wired to ignition switch so there will no need for separate switch and operation is automatic.

[evil_demon_01]

My point is not what is used as a circuit protection.

Let it be a 400 amp circuit breaker or fuse, it will be troublesome for the operator/driver if it keeps popping because of low OAT and cranking needs. The engine will never start in such case.

I've never seen this in person but I'm guessing the cable would be mighty hot to trip the 400 amp circuit protection. It could be red hot at the location where the insulation is breached in case of an accident, which could be a fire hazard already. And, having 400 amp protection may not be enough for cold cranking. By raising the capacity to meet CCA of the battery will further increase the chance of fire hazard.

I have recommended of having a shunt to by-pass the circuit protection earlier in this thread in case of tripping. Now I have another solution. I suggest to install a manually operated N/O solenoid to by-pass the circuit protection during cranking. Call it starting solenoid rather than battery solenoid. With this solenoid installed, you can reduce the capacity of the circuit protection down to 100 amp or whatever the capacity the Honda manual calls for.

This solenoid can be wired to ignition switch so there will no need for separate switch and operation is automatic.

Actually the circuit breaker should be no bigger than the max wiring Amperage rating - Why would you want to exceed the wire rating?
That's just asking for trouble.

You seem to be making this all so complicated for no reason.




The Main battery line needs some form of Circuit protection on it if it travels through the interior of the car.

If you decide not to do that - That's fine, it's your choice.

How do I do that exactly? Links?

Google "battery in trunk circuit breaker" or "battery relocation trunk circuit breaker" and you will find enough resource to make your own decision.