91 accord wagon EX
car has:
H22A4
roughly a 98 or 99 motor
brand new distributor, jdm H22 OBD1
93-96 USDM H22 injectors
P13 ECU
F22A6 wiring harness
new plugs, wires, cap, rotor button
has 200 PSI across all 4 cylinders
I just got done driving the car for the first time since 4/07
I’ve got a vacuum line undone to keep the idle decent, otherwise it will die with sudden throttle plate closure.
when i put the stock ecu back in, check engine light works good, self tests at accessory position II, and comes on for codes
then if i put the p13 back in, i get no check engine light period
i have no checking engine light to go off of. Even though i know its throwing some.
I went and filled it up with fresh premium.
Even with the engine warmed up, if you shut it off and restart, it idles like at 300rpm and if i give it throttle, it spudders.
After about 10-15 seconds of running like this, it stops. Like a light switch. Instantly runs good.
When driving, the car feels out of time. If standing on the passenger side of the car and looking towards the driver’s side, I’ve got the distributor turned as far as it goes in a clockwise direction. Even then it still feels sluggish under a load.
I do not have vtec or the sensor next to it wired up yet. Its the least of my concern.
I’ve also recently heard that I may need my knock sensor hooked up, but if that’s a big problem, how come when I put the stock ECU back in, it runs the same? The stock ECU isn’t looking for a knock sensor, so I’m ruling it out of the equation for now.
When driving, the car falls on its face at any RPM under 2000, obviously due to the timing
While I had the car at my dads shop, they checked the timing a bunch of times, so I’m pretty certain that its good.
Please provide feedback, even if your comment is “I’ve got no clue”
Moderators, please remove my old post, I have no clue how to change the title of that post. I posted in that post asking for help on this subject and I received no replies
car has:
H22A4
roughly a 98 or 99 motor
brand new distributor, jdm H22 OBD1
93-96 USDM H22 injectors
P13 ECU
F22A6 wiring harness
new plugs, wires, cap, rotor button
has 200 PSI across all 4 cylinders
I just got done driving the car for the first time since 4/07
I’ve got a vacuum line undone to keep the idle decent, otherwise it will die with sudden throttle plate closure.
when i put the stock ecu back in, check engine light works good, self tests at accessory position II, and comes on for codes
then if i put the p13 back in, i get no check engine light period
i have no checking engine light to go off of. Even though i know its throwing some.
I went and filled it up with fresh premium.
Even with the engine warmed up, if you shut it off and restart, it idles like at 300rpm and if i give it throttle, it spudders.
After about 10-15 seconds of running like this, it stops. Like a light switch. Instantly runs good.
When driving, the car feels out of time. If standing on the passenger side of the car and looking towards the driver’s side, I’ve got the distributor turned as far as it goes in a clockwise direction. Even then it still feels sluggish under a load.
I do not have vtec or the sensor next to it wired up yet. Its the least of my concern.
I’ve also recently heard that I may need my knock sensor hooked up, but if that’s a big problem, how come when I put the stock ECU back in, it runs the same? The stock ECU isn’t looking for a knock sensor, so I’m ruling it out of the equation for now.
When driving, the car falls on its face at any RPM under 2000, obviously due to the timing
While I had the car at my dads shop, they checked the timing a bunch of times, so I’m pretty certain that its good.
Please provide feedback, even if your comment is “I’ve got no clue”
Moderators, please remove my old post, I have no clue how to change the title of that post. I posted in that post asking for help on this subject and I received no replies


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