drum to disc conversion

[ca93accord]

my last stroll thru pick n pull yard, i saw two accords with rear discs. the rear disc itself seemed really thin and not as thick as my front disc. it didn't seem right to pull so here i am asking the experts

if i pick the rear set up off it, am i able to buy the required parts to make the rear match the front?

or is it better to pick off a compatible vehicle for the conversion since i don't know what the previous owner picked it off from. and maybe that is why it is in the yard because the brakes didn't work.

what vehicle is preferred to pick from? i have read here a 90-97 accord will work.

[xtotek]

my last stroll thru pick n pull yard, i saw two accords with rear discs. the rear disc itself seemed really thin and not as thick as my front disc. it didn't seem right to pull so here i am asking the experts

if i pick the rear set up off it, am i able to buy the required parts to make the rear match the front?

or is it better to pick off a compatible vehicle for the conversion since i don't know what the previous owner picked it off from. and maybe that is why it is in the yard because the brakes didn't work.

what vehicle is preferred to pick from? i have read here a 90-97 accord will work.

Good question - I've also wondered about doing this as well. Never thought it would be worth the effort but I wasn't 100% sure of all that would need to be done.

[SSMAccord]

my last stroll thru pick n pull yard, i saw two accords with rear discs. the rear disc itself seemed really thin and not as thick as my front disc. it didn't seem right to pull so here i am asking the experts

if i pick the rear set up off it, am i able to buy the required parts to make the rear match the front?

or is it better to pick off a compatible vehicle for the conversion since i don't know what the previous owner picked it off from. and maybe that is why it is in the yard because the brakes didn't work.

what vehicle is preferred to pick from? i have read here a 90-97 accord will work.

The parts that are on the donor car in the Pick and Pull are the parts needed to convert the car to a disc set up. Usually that also means pairing the rear components with 40/40 proportioning valve from an non ABS Integra.

The rear disc on almost all Honda vehicles, except the NSX, RL, etc... are solid disc. These are thinner and will not appear to be the same as the front discs which are internally vented. To get a vented set up for the rear you have to go aftermarket or retrofit brakes from a different vehicle such as an NSX or something that has vented rear discs.

[Fleetw00d]

The rear brakes are less substantial because almost 2/3 of the weight of the vehicle is on the front and only 1/3 on the rear.

At the very least, you need the entire rear knuckles and parking brakes cables. I believe many will take the entire rear suspension (trailing arms, control arms, cross member, etc) and swap it as an assembly. Unless you can verify that the calipers are working correctly, it would be a good idea to rebuild or replace the calipers and possibly the rear bearings while you're at it. Good opportunity to install new rear shocks as well if they are in need of attention. Make sure the lower control arm adjusting bolts can be freed up before installing the suspension.

Here is a DIY thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10495

[ca93accord]

Thank you againfor all ur knowlwdge. I will be on the lookout foe those mentioned vehicles

[Crankshaft]

rear disk conversion

If you are gonna do the swap and your car does not come with a factory rear sway bar, do your self a favor and find a donor car with rear disk brakes and a rear crossmember with the mounting brackets for one; as it will give you options for upgrading to a factory, vigor or any other that suits your fancy . I did this swap on my 90 lx along with stainless steel brake lines, front wagon brake upgrade, integra prop valve and prelude master cylinder(it was cheap and i was already doing everything else) but overlooked the rear sway bar and i regret not just having bought everything together. Just take your time and make sure you bleed everything afterwards as i saw a guy forget to do so before.

[oni_cb7]

If you are gonna do the swap and your car does not come with a factory rear sway bar, do your self a favor and find a donor car with rear disk brakes and a rear crossmember with the mounting brackets for one; as it will give you options for upgrading to a factory, vigor or any other that suits your fancy.

No.

If you are putting on an aftermarket rear sway bar, you do NOT need to change the rear crossmember for one that had a stock sway bar. The aftermarket bars are made to install on ANY 90-93 accord, no matter what trim level.

As for factory/oem upgrades, I am pretty sure you can just drill the holes in the crossmember to bolt the sway bar up to it (same as aftermarket).

Why waste the time and money swapping out the crossmember when you can just drill a couple holes?

[Jarrett]

Easy there, bud. Black Spider is right. To install an OEM Honda bar, be it a 15mm '94-'97 Accord EX rear bar or a 16mm '92-'94 Vigor/'97-'99 CL rear bar, you need a subframe with provisions to mount the brackets. The OEM rear sway bars do not mount the rear sway bar in the same position that an aftermarket bar does. A sway bar-compatible subframe has tabs welded onto the back for the bushing mounts to attach to.

You're right about the aftermarket bars, though. Those are designed to install on any rear subframe. However, he said "or any other that suits your fancy", which you assumed to mean aftermarket and not any of the other OEM options that he likely didn't feel like naming off ('95-'98 2.5TL, '96-'98 3.2TL).

[ukemike]

We installed the anti-roll bar off a Vigor on our 91 LX without swapping the rear cross member. So you don't need the crossmember, but that way will certainly work.

We held the whole thing in place and marked the cross member where the mounting bracket holes were. Then we used threat inserts in the holes and bolted it right on. It has lasted for about 5,500 miles of endurance racing. Another option that doesn't require swapping the cross member would be to weld the mounting brackets onto the existing cross member.

[Crankshaft]

Crossmember

If he is already doing the brake swap the crossmember is an extra 6 bolts and prices are $37 for rear crossmember and $19 for rear sway bar assembly so I really don't see why it would cost anyone more time nor more money to do than an aftermarket. But to each his own, this to me is the easiest way if you are already removing the whole rear suspension but as I stated it is simply my point of view.

[Losiracer2]

it might now be cheaper to buy a 9293 EX Accord donor car. I've seen some go as low as 300 here in AZ with blown headgaskets. That way, you'll have all the little nuts and bolts you need plus spare parts galore, granted if you have the space.

[Crankshaft]

Donor car

Problem is that you buy a donor car for parts and end up with two project cars lol at one point we had 9 cars between me and my dad alone.

[oni_cb7]

Easy there, bud. Black Spider is right. To install an OEM Honda bar, be it a 15mm '94-'97 Accord EX rear bar or a 16mm '92-'94 Vigor/'97-'99 CL rear bar, you need a subframe with provisions to mount the brackets. The OEM rear sway bars do not mount the rear sway bar in the same position that an aftermarket bar does. A sway bar-compatible subframe has tabs welded onto the back for the bushing mounts to attach to.

You're right about the aftermarket bars, though. Those are designed to install on any rear subframe. However, he said "or any other that suits your fancy", which you assumed to mean aftermarket and not any of the other OEM options that he likely didn't feel like naming off ('95-'98 2.5TL, '96-'98 3.2TL).

FYI, I said that I am pretty sure about the oem upgrade (I NEVER said that my answer was 100% correct).

However:

We installed the anti-roll bar off a Vigor on our 91 LX without swapping the rear cross member. So you don't need the crossmember, but that way will certainly work.

Technically, I'm still right.

If he is already doing the brake swap the crossmember is an extra 6 bolts and prices are $37 for rear crossmember and $19 for rear sway bar assembly so I really don't see why it would cost anyone more time nor more money to do than an aftermarket.

Well, first of all, paying for the crossmember and sway bar is an extra cost; even more of an extra cost if he decides to upgrade to an aftermarket sway bar that only requires a couple holes being drilled. It may be small to you, but that could be a lot to someone else. The brake swap can be completed safely without it and is not required. And it does take some time to pull a crossmember and install a new one; it's easy to see that this would add more work (aka take more time).