Originally posted by hatchninja
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Well, when i type shit Im blunt and straight to the point... Im the same way in person as well, seems to work better in person then it does over the net... I guess I need to learn to type with a little less agressive tone ::shrugs:: -
Tooth increments are by .125Originally posted by hatchninja
1 addtional tooth = +.125 in length, 2 = .250, etc, etcComment
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Wow, I'm finally sensing some peace between Rick and the other guys in this thread for the first time!
Been watching this page like a hawk and Rick sure has a lot of info to bring to the table. If this build does work out, it would be awesome to have it featured in a magazine! Great work guys esp. hatchninja.
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The major things are going to be the gasket, P to V clearance, piston to head clearance, valve to relief compatibility as well as a few other little things...Originally posted by Granite CB7Wow, I'm finally sensing some peace between Rick and the other guys in this thread for the first time! Been watching this page like a hawk and Rick sure has a lot of info to bring to the table. If this build does work out, it would be awesome to have it featured in a magazine! Great work guys esp. hatchninja.
Your also going to want to get the dome volume of those pistons before you even think about putting them in a F motor, you may acutally be going through all this trouble to puta piston in a motor that can potentially raise your compression... Gotta calc' compression ratios first and formost...
Ill be perfectly honest with you, its not going to work, way too much gasket and not enough sleeve for the top ring to safely ride on... The top ring can potentially move about the deck at TDC (has anyone measure the distance from the deck to the top ring?)
In the end, with everything needed (custom gasket, longer head studs, longer T' belt) its going to pass the point of reason...
Anyways, I can help get you to a point in which you can find out for sure on your own...
There are times when hearing about a horse with 2 dick's isnt enough, sometimes you gotta go see it for yourself
Last edited by Rick Solis; 05-07-2005, 09:21 PM.Comment
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Heres a little tip that will help you out, its going to cost around $150-$300 to do though...
Offset the pin bore on the rods down towards the BE of the rod/rod journal...
This will decrease the center to center length of the rod and force you to have the rods rebushed with a custom offset pin bore... Its expensive but can potentially bring the piston back down in the hole up to .020 (varies per application)
But realisticly, its getting way too expensive to make it pheasable... Its has far surpassed the price of a set of forged pistons already with the required list of parts, the additional cost of the offset pin bore/bushed rods would make it obsurdly unreasonalbe...Comment
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there's a pic a couple of pages back of the piston being 4mm out, i don't think the top ring was out there...these pistons have a lot more material above the pin than honda pistons do. I'd like to calculate the compression, i'll look for the formula again. why would we need to bring it back down .020 if we have enough clearance without doing that? IF we need to do that i'm sure we'll just go with forged everything. I also don't think we'll have to o-ring anything....i've yet to call the company....
*feasableFormer Ride:
93 Accord Coupe
Jdm H22 w/ LSD
Type S pistons and cams
New Ride:
Bone stock 99 2.3CL
Black on Black Leather
5spd
"Experience: that most brutal of teachers. But you learn, my God do you learn."
C. S. LewisComment
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makes a good point........thinking about it the ring wasnt out of the deck but it was real close pic really does that no justice ill be at home all day tomm if you 2 wanna see it first hand .......... in rotation it is possible that the ring wouldnt have enough sleeve to ride on ......i can always put it back in and check if you guys would likeand give you some measurements or for you to seenot enough sleeve for the top ring to safely ride on... The top ring can potentially move about the deck at TDC (has anyone measure the distance from the deck to the top ring?)F22A1:blew up
F22A1/H22:blew up
F22A6/H22: " "
F22A4/H22: " "
H23A1 boosted:blew up
H23A1:traded
H23A1/H22 built:still in progress (getting my feet wet)
drive it like you stole it
FCB7(FRANKENSTEIN CB7 CLUB)
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The formula for compression calculations wont do you any good if you dont have the dome volume specs of the piston you are going to use... Youll need that first, Ill calc' everything for you once you have that available...Originally posted by exratedaccord93
Your going to want to get as much deck back as possible, any way you can... That gasket idea is not a good idea at all... Your going to want to rely on that as little as possible...
Gaskets will change, shrink, expand, warp, pinch for numerous reasons... The more gasket you have the less margin for gasket failure error you have...
Copper gaskets do require steel o-rings...
Its really a lot of trouble and money for not a lot... The OE 4G63 piston is made of fairly brittle 4032 alloy... Its very heavy compared to a aftermarket forged 2618 alloy piston... 2618 is standard issue alloy for the majority of the piston industry (Highest strength to weight ratio alloy available)
The 4032 4G63 piston is stronger than honda's OE cast A3XX alloy but with all the expense and effort its going to cost you to put the 4G63 pistons in the F block you might as well buy a SRP 4032 alloy forged piston that is made for the F22 for under $400...
Also, keep in mind that with proper tuning, even the stock honda pistons can handle up to 300 WHP safely...
Just my $.02
Ive always tried to steer people away from doing anything on a budget... If you put cost first your goingto cut corners somewhere, theres no way around that... If you cant afford to do it the right way, take some time, sae a little more and get the good shit... It will take a little more time for you to do it that way but fuck it... Whats the rush? Were all young, none of us have a deadline thats going to cost us our life if we dont make it...
Nobody ever has the time or money to do things right the first time... But, those same people always find the time and the money to do it right the second time once the first go 'round takes a shit on them...
2 builds cost more than one, remember that next time the word budget comes to mind when you are planning a build/project...Last edited by Rick Solis; 05-07-2005, 11:50 PM.Comment
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Haven't I seen you reccomending Arais pistons on other forums? They are made of the same "brittle" 4032 alloy...Originally posted by Rick SolisRIP Lifsatrip7
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2618 alloy is standard issue unless specified otherwise... Call Tom Jung at Arias, hell tell you the same...Originally posted by ZigenBallZ
http://www.ariaspistons.com/products/ARIAS2005cat.pdf
You can tell from the gram weights of the pistons listed in their catalog that they are definitely a 2618 alloy. Thats right on par with what a 2618 alloy full skirt, non internally milled piston weighs...
4032 pistons are generally 2%-11% heavier than 2618 (depending on skirt type/design) and the amount or lack of internal profiling that goes into the final machined product.Last edited by Rick Solis; 05-08-2005, 09:56 AM.Comment
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You are completely right... I had never really looked into the alloy composition on any other apps than F series... My fault, my misunderstanding...Originally posted by Rick Solis
But I was under the impression that the Arias F series pistons are 4032 alloy...RIP Lifsatrip7
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*feasibleOriginally posted by exratedaccord93
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4032 is generally used in a lot OE FI applications for its strength (stronger than cast), low expansion rates and cost...
But for all out strength and light weight, no question about it... 2618Comment
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/\ oh boy, i dint know you were registered here too!
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wow bump.. dont give up on thisComment
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