F22A Bisimoto Header Detailed Photos

[Losiracer2]

I had this exact same issue when I bought a Hotshot header a couple years back for my H22. I ended up having it TIG welded for 120 bucks at the collector and that solved the leak, but then it wouldn't fit in my car at all without completely notching the front cross member.

So I cut my losses, I paid 260 for it used, 120 for the welding and I think another 60 a first time to get it to fit at an exhaust shop.....ended up selling it for 400 to a guy with a CRX. Man what a nightmare it was having to deal with that exhaust leak all the time. It really gave me a headache and made driving the car no fun. So I put my Greddy 421 back on my H22 and enlarged the collector to 2.5".

Didn't show anywhere near the gains the Hotshot would've but I've got no leaks and my car drives decently now.

[GhostAccord]

It would still stay a 2 piece unit. The main manifold and collector is one piece. The down pipe would be cut just under the collector and a flange would be welded to connect the manifold to the down pipe.

I'm still going to try and make it work though and if all else fails just get it welded how I explained above. I'm staying optimistic though that it will fit how it was intended to fit, just needs some finesse.

Send the POS back and have them fix it.

Or they will probably say "that is how a 'custom' slip fit header is supposed to fit up"..... Or some race header BS like that! he knows that these headers aren't going on all out race cars. Should make some mention about all the leaks and ill fitment on his website or make it known before you go into a group buy..... Never trust a snake oil salesman!

I wouldn't waste my money on this garbage for just this reason. I've seen more fitment and cracking issues than the $50 headers from China.

[reklipz]

Instead of welding the collector on there, why not just weld up material on the slip with the gap? You could build it up where the gap is, or probably better, build it up on the opposite side. Lay a quick bead, pull out some sand paper/dremel and go to town.

That seems obvious to me... am I the only one? Did I miss something?

[AstroVannin]

I still lol at the million dollar leaky header.

Awesome!!

[Vex]

Dang, I remember seeing those group buys and have always regret'd not joining in. Thinking i'll be missing out AGAIN on such a good header and at a cheaper price.

Seeing this, it just makes me kind of mad. No, I don't own one but for sure I no longer want to buy one. I understand it's custom, takes time, and calculations blah blah blah. But where on earth did bisi think this leak was "acceptable"?

It's like selling a brand new car with 250k miles? -.- (exactly, we just don't get it..)

[cloudasc]

The issue looks to be caused by the expansion of a primary on the collector after heated, due to the way the everything lines up. Its not exactly slip on, its more like twist/flex, and requires the ram part of the header to be mounted on the car, as there is no dry fitting it by yourself due to the design. That extra sideways pressure causes it to out of round. I believe it might be preventable with a hose clamp or equivalent. Header wrap might be an alternative too.

[oyajicool]

^^^^^I don't think you know what you are talking about. See photos below. There's no heat expansion or what ever BS you are talking about. I work with an FAA certified exhaust system repair station for my exhaust repair needs on aircraft I work. The repair station has a water tank to presser test for leaks on their products before they certify the parts. Since I don't have large enough tank to test the Bisi pipe, I used soapy water.











The collector joints on Bisi are slip joints which goes on only one way. There's no room for adjusting this way or that way, they are spring loaded. So, it doesn't matter who install this POS.

If it is leaker, it will be a leaker until the leak is fixed.

[illinois_erik]

Damn, I never figured Id have money to blow on a bisimoto product; what the fuck is that though..Id charge back that shit. Anywho Im glad I decided to spring on a hytech tri-y.. boo ya.

[cloudasc]

^^^^^I don't think you know what you are talking about. See photos below. There's no heat expansion or what ever BS you are talking about. I work with an FAA certified exhaust system repair station for my exhaust repair needs on aircraft I work. The repair station has a water tank to presser test for leaks on their products before they certify the parts. Since I don't have large enough tank to test the Bisi pipe, I used soapy water.

The collector joints on Bisi are slip joints which goes on only one way. There's no room for adjusting this way or that way, they are spring loaded. So, it doesn't matter who install this POS.

If it is leaker, it will be a leaker until the leak is fixed.

I'm talking about the header I have that I got from the group buy, and when I tried to test fit mine. If 3 of the primary's for the "ram horn part" line up with the collector, one needs to be flexed/bent to align with the final tube. I have not tried to mount mine to the car, I just tried to get it to slip together on my floor, and there is no dam way I can get it to line up / slip on without the "ram horn part" being mounted to the car. Visually when I lined up my header for each primary to the collector, I did not see any visible gap or cause of issues other then what I mentioned above, and is the basis for my previous post.

Here are the pictures I took a couple years ago when I received the header, would you like me to snap some new pictures so I can show you what I'm talking about?

[GhostAccord]

The issue is that the quality assurance department sucks and no one actually checks to make sure the slip fit connections actually slip fit before they pack them up and ship them.

This is an issue with using a jig and having two different people welding the top half and bottom half, or the one person just not caring that the tw0 parts don't fit once they have cooled and been removed from the welding jigs.

This comes back to the "fact" that he farms his group buy headers out to an over seas fabrication company. Has them built over there and shipped back here in bulk. Only to be removed from the containers only to band stuck into a new Bisimoto box w/the invoice and stickers. I would bet that not one person @ his shop checks the fitment of these headers before they go out the door to you the customer.

It's pretty evident from what I have seen in their fitment and the non existent handling of these issues.



Like I have said before, all these people with issues should ship them back and ask to have them be fixed. See what happens! That should be easy enough for a company to do for a $500-$1200 header.

[oyajicool]

I'm talking about the header I have that I got from the group buy, and when I tried to test fit mine. If 3 of the primary's for the "ram horn part" line up with the collector, one needs to be flexed/bent to align with the final tube. I have not tried to mount mine to the car, I just tried to get it to slip together on my floor, and there is no dam way I can get it to line up / slip on without the "ram horn part" being mounted to the car. Visually when I lined up my header for each primary to the collector, I did not see any visible gap or cause of issues other then what I mentioned above, and is the basis for my previous post.

Here are the pictures I took a couple years ago when I received the header, would you like me to snap some new pictures so I can show you what I'm talking about?

I still say you don't know what you are talking about.

If you try to tweak one pipe out of four to line up the collector, that pipe will be out of angle and/or out of position. You may never be able to assemble the two pieces (upper and lower) together. Having said that, who knows, you may get lucky.

One of ways to correct this leak issue is to cut off a section of offending/leaking pipe just above of it engages to the collector. And then weld a piece of pipe that matches the ID of collector while two sections are engaged/assembled.

I can have my welder do this job, but I lost interest on working with this POS pipe for now. Why do I have to spend more time and money when this kind of problem should never ever happened in the first place?

Like I have said before, all these people with issues should ship them back and ask to have them be fixed. See what happens! That should be easy enough for a company to do for a $500-$1200 header.

They are in CA, I'm in FL. Shipping costs $$$. The way these people from Bisi is being quiet for these threads talking about how bad these pipes are, I am not so optimistic about them admitting that this is an issue to be concerned. Because they are selling a "racing header". I fear the pipe will come back as they left from me, just waste the time and money. I'd rather work with people I know and can see face to face in situation like this.

[GhostAccord]

They are in CA, I'm in FL. Shipping costs $$$. The way these people from Bisi is being quiet for these threads talking about how bad these pipes are, I am not so optimistic about them admitting that this is an issue to be concerned. Because they are selling a "racing header". I fear the pipe will come back as they left from me, just waste the time and money. I'd rather work with people I know and can see face to face in situation like this.

That is exactly what they want to hear... I give up!.. You paid for it and now you have to put up with it's sub standard performance...... Seems like they are counting on that point of view from most of their customers. Good luck with that, glad I never bought in

[oyajicool]

That is exactly what they want to hear...

Yes, they are hearing that and also they are hearing me as well as others saying the exhaust pipes they sold us are POS, leaker.

As a business owner which one would I want to hear more?????? I wonder?????

[Madpol]

imo.......weld the primaries in place and cut the pipe after it has joined into one and create a flange to join the 2 cut pieces together so you can still unbolt it just like the non bisi headers do.
BUT!! why should you have to do any work to them....it should be a good product in the first place

after readign about all the leaking and trouble its made up my mind......why pay all that money to kill your self or make your self ill..if i wanted a leaky exhaust i would just go to the wreckers and by a crappy rusty exhaust for about $50.
sorry but bisi have let them selves down....you cant have a well known name like that and produce crap like that

[reklipz]

So, the question becomes:

Is the cost of fixing the leak (welding the slips on), and adding a flange to the collector worth the price/performance? This would assume a used Bisi header, as apparently the consensus is that there's no reason to buy a new one if it's broken out of the box.