Intake manifold questions

[DCB7]

1. What length bolts do I get for double stacking?

2. What size are the vacuum tubes(if I want to get aftermarket)? Are they all the same size?

3. When doing the IM manifold swap, can I remove the fuel rail, injectors, and black plastic piece as one assembly, and change only injector to manifold seals?

4. When wiring the IAB's, I read that the pink wire goes to pinA17, and the black one, I either ground it to the chassis, or connect it to a existing ground wire?

thanks in advance

[DCB7]

1. What length bolts do I get for double stacking?

2. What size are the vacuum tubes(if I want to get aftermarket)? Are they all the same size?
The cruise control vacuum port is bigger than the rest. I used 5/32" tubing for the fpr and it fit snug

3. When doing the IM manifold swap, can I remove the fuel rail, injectors, and black plastic piece as one assembly, and change only injector to manifold seals?
It could be done but I separated them anyway to chnge the seals

4. When wiring the IAB's, I read that the pink wire goes to pinA17, and the black one, I either ground it to the chassis, or connect it to a existing ground wire?
One DIY says to ground out the black one. The 'Swaps FAQ' says to connect it to ignition wire

thanks in advance

5. Should I have cut a track in this gasket, or is that how it should be? It idles ok but wanted to make sure


6. Except the vacuum to the MAP sensor and fuel pressure regulator, does plugging all the other ports have any effect on performance? + or -

[frohawker]

You do not need to modify the gasket. If you look closely you'll see the channel opens to the side.

[DCB7]

Thanks, I figured as much. There's a few versions of the H gaskets and the other channels had cut outs. Just making sure
The side opening is very small at the lip. The channel is deeper.

I'm thinking of deleting the black box also, and keep the charcoal cannister, since the egr is blocked off anyway.

[cb3frompoland]

pink wire goes to a17 on ecu, but ecu connects it to the ground, other wire is +. You can connect it to any positive wire from ignition key or even direct to fuse box. Many info on this forum or web, just search.

[EsperHamid]

even the idle screw doesn't need a cut to its gasket, it follows the same principle as the MAP channel. All you need is the throttle plate and the FITV and IACV to be cut open on this gasket.
However this looks different from my F22 TB, what is the third passage for ?

Edit: also if the engine has a high mileage on it, it is better if you remove the PCV and replace it with a connector then connect both the PCV outlet to the other breather outlet and let them condense inside a bottle similar in size to the Charcoal Canister.

I have found out that in a high mileage engine, the quantity of oil in blow by gases is so critical (even if you have a catch can ) that it will make your IM gasket leak when it gets soaked with oil.

If you keep your PCV and your breather hose outside your IM and Air Duct your IM gasket will last much much much longer than you think ( LESS LABOR ) and your performance will increase !!!

I have also disconnected the cooling lines from the IACV and FITV ( FITV need to be blocked though ) and your IM will stay warm to the touch but not hot !! and will cool faster when hit by the fans and on highways meaning better performance, poor fuel economy.

WARNING: use an open connector on the PCV. DO NOT // DO NOT // leave the PCV itself and block its IM inlet. Your PCV alone cannot let blow by gases out without assistance from IM vacuum therefore the PCV needs to be removed !!!

[DCB7]

pink wire goes to a17 on ecu, but ecu connects it to the ground, other wire is +. You can connect it to any positive wire from ignition key or even direct to fuse box. Many info on this forum or web, just search.

Thanks. At the time of the original post I was about to do the intake swap. I had to get the right understanding of how the things worked for some of it to finally make sense though.

First I was thinking the pink was the power (mine is more red, cut short at plug) and the black was ground. But its obvious to me now that black/yellow is +. I need to inform IgnoredCBsaviour

It says though that when wired to the ECU, the butterflies should stay open till the key is in the on position, then they close and the ecu takes over. So with no power they should be open right? However with my plug not wired up, mine stay closed all the time.

even the idle screw doesn't need a cut to its gasket, it follows the same principle as the MAP channel. All you need is the throttle plate and the FITV and IACV to be cut open on this gasket.
However this looks different from my F22 TB, what is the third passage for ?

Edit: also if the engine has a high mileage on it, it is better if you remove the PCV and replace it with a connector then connect both the PCV outlet to the other breather outlet and let them condense inside a bottle similar in size to the Charcoal Canister.

I have found out that in a high mileage engine, the quantity of oil in blow by gases is so critical (even if you have a catch can ) that it will make your IM gasket leak when it gets soaked with oil.

If you keep your PCV and your breather hose outside your IM and Air Duct your IM gasket will last much much much longer than you think ( LESS LABOR ) and your performance will increase !!!

I have also disconnected the cooling lines from the IACV and FITV ( FITV need to be blocked though ) and your IM will stay warm to the touch but not hot !! and will cool faster when hit by the fans and on highways meaning better performance, poor fuel economy.

WARNING: use an open connector on the PCV. DO NOT // DO NOT // leave the PCV itself and block its IM inlet. Your PCV alone cannot let blow by gases out without assistance from IM vacuum therefore the PCV needs to be removed !!!

There are a couple holes that bypass the throttle plate, leading to those large cutouts. The top cutout is for the idle-screw on this one. At the bottom of the TB in the picture you'll see I already have a blockoff installed for the fitv, including the coolant lines. When the engine gets real hot though, I still feel the drop in power from heat soak. Maybe thermal gasket next time.
I think I would benefit from a catch can. I want another option to the breather filter, and last time I took off the hose on the PCV there was enough oil in there for a drip. The old manifold did have black soot marks around the plenum gasket, so what you said might have been taking place

After blocking off the EGR, it probly makes no sense trying to retain the charcoal canister, I just don't like the idea of gas fumes in the bay, lol. A catch can could fit neatly right there, even if it is overkill.

I haven't deleted the black box and charcoal canister yet, so any tips on that would be appreciated. Any benefits to doing that?

[dwhacks]

......It says though that when wired to the ECU, the butterflies should stay open till the key is in the on position, then they close and the ecu takes over. So with no power they should be open right? However with my plug not wired up, mine stay closed all the time........

Something must be wrong with your IAB's, the spring or their control box. Do they open and close freely by hand? The actuator diaphragm thing works on vacuum so you could test it by connecting its vacuum line to the intake manifold and see if it opens and closes when you rev the engine. They should be spring loaded to stay open and only close when vacuum is applied to the diaphragm.

[DCB7]

You're right. It was open all the time. Sorry for the dumb question.
The hose I was using for the vacuum test was too big at first. I used some electrical tape to seal it up, and now it opens as soon as I give it some throttle! thanks. I thought I had so much torque it had to be closed, but apparently not.

I also got some 14 gauge wire, soldered that to the iab plug wires and run them in to the ecu. I just need to get a pin now to add them to the ecu plug and I'm set.

I found this thread that shows where to get power from the ecu harness
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post1760704
pin A25 - splice with black/yellow wire
pin A17 - add pin with pink wire

For anyone interested. That way I can run both neatly in the same rubber