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    #16
    ^It really comes down to how picky the OP is regarding vibration. I was just suggesting what I would do and have done in the past. In your head, draw a straight line from side mount to tranny mount going across the valve cover. That is your pivot or axis of the engine's rocking. From a performance standpoint, having the stiffer mounts 90*/perpendicular from this axis/pivot line will prevent this rocking. Hence why I said stock sides and stiff front and rear. I guess I'm just assuming that he's going to want to strap down his built F22A as much as possible, that's what I would want w/ a built motor, get the most power and efficiency out of it

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      #17
      your steering wheel feels weird as shit huh? I noticed when I put mounts in my car that I could peel out so much better. Its quite normal.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
        ^It really comes down to how picky the OP is regarding vibration. I was just suggesting what I would do and have done in the past. In your head, draw a straight line from side mount to tranny mount going across the valve cover. That is your pivot or axis of the engine's rocking. From a performance standpoint, having the stiffer mounts 90*/perpendicular from this axis/pivot line will prevent this rocking. Hence why I said stock sides and stiff front and rear. I guess I'm just assuming that he's going to want to strap down his built F22A as much as possible, that's what I would want w/ a built motor, get the most power and efficiency out of it
        That might increase his vibrations due to the softer side mounts not absorbing enough. While I agree with you on a performance standpoint the OP is trying to reduce vibrations. In this case it is one or the other, you can't have a vibration free performance solution, it's either better performance or less vibration.

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          #19
          i know a lot of people that have the poly mounts that dont have a front mount, because they are so stiff you dont really need one. but if you have a stock one, and its not a show car that needs to hide everything possible, why not use it.

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            #20
            Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Post
            i know a lot of people that have the poly mounts that dont have a front mount, because they are so stiff you dont really need one. but if you have a stock one, and its not a show car that needs to hide everything possible, why not use it.
            Yes, you don't NEED one, but that is if you don't mind the vibrations.

            If he spreads the forces out it will reduce vibrations, I believe that is his goal.

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              #21
              Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Post
              i know a lot of people that have the poly mounts that dont have a front mount, because they are so stiff you dont really need one. but if you have a stock one, and its not a show car that needs to hide everything possible, why not use it.
              exactly its so stiff there really is no need for it but the vibration im getting use to finally. i rode in my girls truck this weekend and i couldnt tell if it was on lol i should have pics soon for ya guys!

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                #22
                Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
                I would first try stock side mounts (@ front/timing belt and tranny) and leave the Innovative rear and def. run a front torque mount. It'll be the best of both worlds, less vibration but yet keeping the motor from rocking front to back.
                This is what I am thinking of doing...keeping the stock sides (engine/trans mounts) and upgrading the rear with inovative or explicit urethane mount. I'm getting ready to drop in a H22 and wanted the up shifts and downshifts to be solid but also a comfy idle. Are most people seeing these types of results with this or similar setup?
                Last edited by ssondubs; 01-15-2013, 06:56 PM. Reason: Grammar
                1993 Accord LX Coupe 5spd

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