Since it will be a LONG time before I can put the H23 in my car and since I need to do the clutch soon, why not put the M2S4 on the F22 while everything is off. I know I need to drill and tap the holes on the top for the passenger mount, but is there anything else I will need to do to install it on the F22?
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No.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency! -
Thanks, hopefully the engine will be soon to follow.Be unique, like every other person.
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So is there anything preventing me with the M2S4 swap from just cutting the power steering hoses off of the H2U5 and using them to connect both of the (my best way to describe) male connections on the rack and the transmission? I know what those hoses are for and I am sure the hose connections on the transmission are for the same use, adjusting the assist depending on speed, a function I would like to keep.Be unique, like every other person.
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They all have the same part number. So I say no need to disconnect the hoses, just use the f22 assembly.
h23
56500-PT3-010, #008 , qty 001 SENSOR ASSY., POWER STEERING
f22
56500-PT3-010, #009 , qty 001 SENSOR ASSY., POWER STEERING
h22
56500-PT3-010, #008 , qty 001 SENSOR ASSY., POWER STEERINGLast edited by Tishock; 09-12-2013, 04:02 AM.
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They come off the transmission side? They looked to be permanently fixed on there last time I was in that area. Thanks. Another question, I only have the bottom of the VSS, the rotating square peg is exposed can I use the F22 or will that cause inaccurate readings.Last edited by XCRN; 09-12-2013, 11:52 AM.Be unique, like every other person.
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The VSS are same. Use the F22
#8 (bottom left). Also make sure to check the O-rings.
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I am guessing a lot of this information you have found while working on your Swap Chronicles, but thanks a lot for the info.Be unique, like every other person.
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do it
i got that trans on my motor , i just had to tap them holes n that was it ... its the second one i put in my cb ... i love it its strong as fuk i flat shift alot and i just beat the crap out of it and it loves it.. its crazy..Comment
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So this is also my first clutch job too so just to be sure I have to use brake cleaner on the friction surfaces on the flywheel and the pressure plate? What about the friction disk?Be unique, like every other person.
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I wouldn't touch the clutch disc with anything, just like a brake pad/shoe.
I also wouldn't be too concerned with cleaning the pressure plate / flywheel. If they're shiny and clean (which they ought to be from wear on the clutch disc), they'll be fine. I suppose brake cleaner can't really hurt these two though.
Clutch is a fairly straight-forward job; the only critical pieces is making sure the clutch disc stays aligned while you torque down the pressure plate so that you can install the transmission; there's no easy way to remove the pressure plate tension on the clutch disc other than the clutch fork mechanism, and that only works then the transmission is installed. That's why we have "clutch alignment tools," but generally any dowel that keeps the disc relatively well aligned (the alignment tools I've used aren't anything spectatular I've found; usually have quite a bit of wiggle if I want it to) with the opening should work fine.Last edited by reklipz; 09-17-2013, 11:34 AM.Comment
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Another question. I am incredibly paranoid that the engine will fall on me if I remove the mounting bolts that are in the bottom rear, where they hold the rear engine mount and the engine together. Am I just too paranoid? Also I am having one hell of a time removing the rod that connects to the strut from the cross member in the front. Do I absolutely need to remove it?Be unique, like every other person.
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when i took my M2B4 out for a rebuild, I just put a jack and a 2x4 under the oil pan of the engine and that held it in fine with the driverside mount and front mount still attached.
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93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
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Cool, now I have rounded off one of the lower bolts. So you know how there are 4 on the bottom rear, 3 that go through the rear mount bracket and 1 that is closest to the flywheel cover. I have rounded the one next to the cover and I am unable to go pick up any tools to fix this. I know that it is not threaded on the block and that the threads only are on the transmission so could I just saw through it and slide it out when I remove the transmission?Be unique, like every other person.
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12 pt socket might get it out.
It would be tough getting a saw down there. But If you could I don't see why you couldn't
If I remember one of those bolts just bolts the mount to the engine and doesn't go into the tranny. I think.
steve
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