MikeW : 2001 Honda Accord V6

[MikeW]

Im going for subtle drop. Classy drop. Sports drop. Not ultimate slammage, lol. I want the ride quality to be as close to OEM while still ridding myself of some of that tire gap.

[Straight Success]

Many pages, so there must be a lot going on here, Mike. Give me some time to dissect the pages. I know I'll be impressed.

[MikeW]

Uh....there will be disappoint, lol.

Long story-short; exhaust, HIDs, LEDs, tint, woodgrain everywhere, Si wheels and EDM tails. Oh, and fog lights.

That's. About. It.

[Shadow1]

What Konis are you finding for $250-300? The reds or the yellows? If your finding the yellows fir that much let me know. Lol. But if your finding the reds for that price too, I might end up going with that combo as well.

[MikeW]

Yellows.

Tirerack or some website has them for like $125 each in the spring/summertime. I'll postup if/when i come across them.

[owequitit]

Debadge? Nevar!

Eh, the thought has crossed my mind. It came with gold emblems but they were all pitted and gross so I went out and bought new silver ones. Hell, I have the "V6" badge on their and fools still try to race me. So I guess, either way, it wouldn't matter, lol.

Im trying for a nav unit in the next coming weeks and then i'll be working on suspension. More than likely going Koni Yellows and GC sleeves set to a certain rate. Currently trying to find out how much extra custom rates will cost, if anything, and then just saving for them.

People try to race you because these V6's are SLOW!!!!

I like to do things right, even if it costs more money. That's just my prerogative.

If I do suspension, it's gonna either be F2T2 or Koni/GC or Koni/Eibach.

The Koni's are like $250-$300 all day long. Eibachs are a little more than that and the GCs we dont know yet. Probably not that expensive either. Last I checked, T2s go for close a grand. Either of the Koni setups will cost 2/3 that.

Trust me. Ive spent a good amount of time talking to Adam(mndude07) about suspension and we both concluded that a spring/shock combo would suit my needs/wants best.

And it's one of those things that's gonna be hard for me to pull the trigger on. This is my ONLY car. My DD. I drive to work in this thing, I grocery get in this thing, I drive long distances in this thing, I drive in the snow in this thing. So any suspension work has to be able to handle those conditions. Plus, in my mind, a drop plays with the overall re-sale-ability of the vehicle. If I dont play with suspension, I can sell it to any ordinary Joe Shmoe. However, in my mind, if I do a drop or any major suspension work, no ordinary Joe Shmoe is gonna want the car. And that lessens my chances of selling and narrows the field of buyers. Not that I plan on selling it anytime soon but in the off-chance that I do or need to, I dont want to have to sit on it forever, waiting for some kid who wants a lowered Honda to come along and buy it from me.

Personally, I would highly consider Neuspeeds if they make them as well. You just can't beat the ride quality with a good set of shocks. I don't have any problems with Eibach per se, but make sure whatever you get is progressive rate. That is what will really preserve ride quality.

[MikeW]

People try to race you because these V6's are SLOW!!!!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH SCOTT!

Lol. Sadly, I know. I meant little ricer civics and 4cyl accords. Buddy of mine has a CB with an H23 built for NOS, minus the nitrous, and he gave me a run.

Personally, I would highly consider Neuspeeds if they make them as well. You just can't beat the ride quality with a good set of shocks. I don't have any problems with Eibach per se, but make sure whatever you get is progressive rate. That is what will really preserve ride quality.

Ive thought about Neuspeed. A 6G cup kit, of sorts. And Im definitely shooting for progressive rates. I dont want a harsh ride, if I can avoid it, and Im definitely not shooting for slammage or tucking tires. Id just want little to no gap on the 17s and I dont really care about it on the 16s as they'll be winter tires.

[MikeW]

Who's up for some TL strut bars...?

[ThatOneAccord]

is it weird that until around decemeber of last year, i didn't realize that the tailighs of the 6th gen accord coupe were remeniscent of the Acura/Honda NSX?

[C91BLX7]

Who's up for some TL strut bars...?

Wat

[MikeW]

is it weird that until around decemeber of last year, i didn't realize that the tailighs of the 6th gen accord coupe was remeniscent of the Acura/Honda NSX?

No. I get that a lot actually. I notice it myself. Especially at night.

Wat

Werd.

Front is like $50. RSB, with Moog bushing is gonna be in the $150 range. Unless I go progressive RSB.

[Shadow1]

Not sure if you know this but you can use the RSB from the '04-07 TL 6spd on the CG. Instead of paying $150+ for 23mm you can get 22mm I think for $65 from the dealership.

[F20A CB7]

That's cool u guys have oem strut bars, is it the same for the rear?

[C91BLX7]

Not sure if you know this but you can use the RSB from the '04-07 TL 6spd on the CG. Instead of paying $150+ for 23mm you can get 22mm I think for $65 from the dealership.

I'm pretty sure they are 20mm.

[MikeW]

Not sure if you know this but you can use the RSB from the '04-07 TL 6spd on the CG. Instead of paying $150+ for 23mm you can get 22mm I think for $65 from the dealership.

I'm pretty sure they are 20mm.

This.

07 MT TL bar is 20 or 21mm. Progressive is 24mm.

The TL bar, yes, is cheap. Throw in Moog bushings and it's another $50. Im not track racer or anything, but I figure, if Im gonna spend $100+ on the thing, I might as well go for the gold.