*Official Weight Reduction thread*

[scudweiser]

11 pounds damn i would of never guess that high, has anybody weighed all the trunk crap plus backseats ????? or is the list updated ???

i had all of the tar paper from the trunk in a trash bag and it was about 6 lbs, not including whats under the rear seat and carpet

[93 LX COUPE]

i have a question about wr. can i remove all the a/c crap without messing with the heater at all. i really need the heat i live in chicago. i can deal with heat. i'll just roll the windows down if it's to hot, but come winter i need that heat. so if anyone knows about this please post

[tn_accord]

yeah pullin the pump and lines will not affect your heat..heat comes from the engine not an acc. lol

[93 LX COUPE]

thanks tn accord. i'm thinking about removing my a/c because it has a bad leak and it's only hot for about 4-5 months up here anyways.

[tn_accord]

yo welcome bruh...just go to a parts store and tell them you need a belt for an accord dx without the ac option and you'll be set. lol

[WilliamW]

Yeah, unless you get ungodly heat waves EVERY year, the AC is overrated. If you want to go the full route, you'll need to take out the compressor, lines, evaporator core, condenser, and tid bits here and there. Most people will leave the input lines showing on their firewall, but it's so much nicer when you get the core out from under your dash.

*TIP* When you remove the evaporator core from under the dash, KEEP the rubber grommet with the dual holes in it. If you take 2 small zip ties and zip tie the holes closed, your firewall will look clean and keep the water out.


I also removed my heater core and all the lines and replaced it with a summit racing one and it works MUCH better, weighs less, and It allowed me to remove my entire dash but still keep a heater and heater ducting-both of which are aftermarket.

[rexload]

I have some questions/thoughts

1. for a car that is driven in winter, are there any alternatives to running the stock blower motor? that thing is pretty heavy! but I need to defrost my windshield in the AM in winter.
could I run just a fan in front of the heater core and only one vent blowing at the windshield? (but this may not be enough to defrost the windshield?)

OR would it be a good idea to get rid of everything including the heater core and run some type of compact electrical heater to defrost the windshield?

2. I noticed that the window regulators/motors are pretty heavy too. I was thinking that removing all of them besides the drivers door would save a decent amount of weight. However, it would be necessary to make custom brackets to hold the window glass in place. But all the brackets would obviously weight less than a pound.
Any thoughts on this? good or bad idea for a daily driven car?

EDIT: one more thought
3. what are my options for a more compact windshield washer reservoir?

another EDIT:
this may sound kinda crazy but the ECU weighs a couple lbs only because of its metal case, so making a plastic case for it would definitely save some weight

[WilliamW]

I have some questions/thoughts

1. for a car that is driven in winter, are there any alternatives to running the stock blower motor? that thing is pretty heavy! but I need to defrost my windshield in the AM in winter.
could I run just a fan in front of the heater core and only one vent blowing at the windshield? (but this may not be enough to defrost the windshield?)

OR would it be a good idea to get rid of everything including the heater core and run some type of compact electrical heater to defrost the windshield?

2. I noticed that the window regulators/motors are pretty heavy too. I was thinking that removing all of them besides the drivers door would save a decent amount of weight. However, it would be necessary to make custom brackets to hold the window glass in place. But all the brackets would obviously weight less than a pound.
Any thoughts on this? good or bad idea for a daily driven car?

EDIT: one more thought
3. what are my options for a more compact windshield washer reservoir?

another EDIT:
this may sound kinda crazy but the ECU weighs a couple lbs only because of its metal case, so making a plastic case for it would definitely save some weight

I have answers. I have done all this. except for the ECU one. I believe you NEED the metal case for the ground of the ECU.

Ok for the down and dirty stuff. I got rid of everything, heater core ducting, dash, wires I didn't need all hoses BUT you want to keep the small plastic ball valve that your temperature control actuates. It will be in your engine bay and just have a little nub on it after you take off all the connecting links.

Alright. so you have everything out of the front. you have in your had that plastic ball valve and you want some heat. Go to summit racing and buy their little (BUT POWERFUL) heater. Item name and number is "
Summit SUM-991102 - Summit® Automotive Heaters." It puts out 28,000 BTUs of heat. That's a TON for a little car. You will need 5/8" hose and some bar stock for fencing you can find at any home depot or Lowe's.

You need two people for this. I placed the heater length wise in front of the shifter right in the middle so the two ports faced up. Then with a basic frame made up for the heater outside of the car I bolted it to the heater and had a friend hold the heater in position while I welded it to the body of the car. I made it so that I could unbolt the heater and take it out but leave the frame welded into my car.

Once you do this you need to run the coolant lines from where they originally came from to where they finally wind up. You should put the ball valve on the inside of the car 6" away from the heater port preferably underneath the heater so that you can adjust the amount of coolant that goes into the core. This is important for summer times when you don't want a radiator heating you all 24/7.

This works great and started getting warm within 1/2 a mile. Fully hot within 3 miles. I have to turn down the heat or more than likely off just because it works so well.

Defrosters. If you get the ducting addition like I did, then you can bolt the face plate right to the front of the heater itself and have a 90 degree bend of tubing right on top. The second port you need to run up to the metal channel that sits behind the dash. there is an opening underneath that is just big enough to put a duct to. that way you can close off the front port and allow all the air to go to the defrosters or you can open the front and heat the inside of the car quicker and still run defrosters.

[rexload]

some more ideas (not sure if it was mentioned already)
-stock honda steering wheels with air bags are roughly 10lbs. there are aftermarket steering wheels that are 2lbs
-stock CB side mirrors are around 3lbs each, ebay mirrors are under 1lbs
-cutting your stock hood webbing is a good alternative to paying hundreds for a carbon fiber hood. i've never done it on a CB but my educated guess it that it will be about 5-9lbs depending on how much you cut. (don't forget to add hood pins)
-there is a lot of sound deadening and various unnecessary brackets behind the dash. It is possible to remove at least 30lbs from the CB dash and retain the heater
-you can get 15lbs aluminum front seats for ~110 a piece nowadays. so that is roughly a 30lbs saving per seat
-the trunk floor is heavy in a CB, i haven't weighed it but if you have a basic welder, you could cut it out and put thinner metal there. even add dynomat to it and it should still be a nice weight saving (dont forget to take off the fuel tank when welding in that area)
-bumper supports weigh about 15lbs a piece and are not needed. especially the rear one - it's not a CRX, the rear is really far from the driver.
-there are a couple of metal supports behind the rear seat, they weigh a few lbs and are not needed if you already removed the rear seat
-egr valve is heavy lol. you can get an egr block off plate for about 5buck on ebay
-running an aftermarket header and just one muffler plus aluminum rear section of the exhaust saves roughly 10-20lbs depending on how you do it
-exhaust heatshields weight several lbs but your undercoating may start melting if you remove them depengin on how close your exhaust is to the floor
-we know that door panels weigh quite a lot especially when you remove all four(on a sedan/wagon) but we forget that there is a lot more to remove from the doors. bust out that grinder and a cutoff wheel and gut those doors, there is a lot of weight there.
-the headliner actually weighs a lot
-the oem radio, speakers and antena are roughly 10lbs
-a lot of metal can be cut off from the shifter assembly without sacrificing anything whatsoever
blah I have more ideas ha will post later

[Julianachos]

some more ideas (not sure if it was mentioned already)
-stock honda steering wheels with air bags are roughly 10lbs. there are aftermarket steering wheels that are 2lbs
-stock CB side mirrors are around 3lbs each, ebay mirrors are under 1lbs
-cutting your stock hood webbing is a good alternative to paying hundreds for a carbon fiber hood. i've never done it on a CB but my educated guess it that it will be about 5-9lbs depending on how much you cut. (don't forget to add hood pins)
-there is a lot of sound deadening and various unnecessary brackets behind the dash. It is possible to remove at least 30lbs from the CB dash and retain the heater
-you can get 15lbs aluminum front seats for ~110 a piece nowadays. so that is roughly a 30lbs saving per seat
-the trunk floor is heavy in a CB, i haven't weighed it but if you have a basic welder, you could cut it out and put thinner metal there. even add dynomat to it and it should still be a nice weight saving (dont forget to take off the fuel tank when welding in that area)
-bumper supports weigh about 15lbs a piece and are not needed. especially the rear one - it's not a CRX, the rear is really far from the driver.
-there are a couple of metal supports behind the rear seat, they weigh a few lbs and are not needed if you already removed the rear seat
-egr valve is heavy lol. you can get an egr block off plate for about 5buck on ebay
-running an aftermarket header and just one muffler plus aluminum rear section of the exhaust saves roughly 10-20lbs depending on how you do it
-exhaust heatshields weight several lbs but your undercoating may start melting if you remove them depengin on how close your exhaust is to the floor
-we know that door panels weigh quite a lot especially when you remove all four(on a sedan/wagon) but we forget that there is a lot more to remove from the doors. bust out that grinder and a cutoff wheel and gut those doors, there is a lot of weight there.
-the headliner actually weighs a lot
-the oem radio, speakers and antena are roughly 10lbs
-a lot of metal can be cut off from the shifter assembly without sacrificing anything whatsoever
blah I have more ideas ha will post later

Good shit. I might look into it soon.

[scudweiser]

my radio shit the proverbial bed the other day, i made a block off plate out of aluminium and powder coated it black, my new ICE is my ipod shuffle.

[khal.lawson]

my radio shit the proverbial bed the other day, i made a block off plate out of aluminium and powder coated it black, my new ICE is my ipod shuffle.

pics ?

[scudweiser]

yeahhh

[steelbluesleepR]

right now, i have my engine delete kit on, as well as super-lightweight suspension (its not even there!) and a stripped front end, its almost light enough i can pick it up by the front of the frame!

lol


god i want my car working again...

[91_CB7_Sedan]

Removal of bumper supports - ?lbs
The stock CB7 weighs roughly 2850lbs. What can we get it down to?

I'm pretty sure that the bumper supports are within a pound or two of 50lbs.