Not starting when hot

[My300kCoupe]

Ok, all the basic symptoms of the "car wont start after getting gas after a 30 min drive".
1. i've had the main relay out and re-soldered it last summer. ive had absolutely 0 issues with it since, so i think thats out of the question.
2.Everything pointed to the ignitor issue, witch is almost identicle to the main relay symptoms, except the cel acts slightly different.
3. replaced the ignitor last week, and for the most part it was cleared up, but yesterday i got stuck in a parking lot again with the same no-start issue.
4. checked cel codes and got egr, which i took care off imediatly and cleared up, and also got a temp. sensor code. I don't think either of these are cousing this issue, i just figured id throw that info in there.

My question is, What the fu*k could be the next thing to look at? i know this car in and out, but this issue is really getting old. Im a 27 year old single dad with twin girls and im getting tired of saying "dont worry girl's, daddy will get the car started in a few min".lol Oh, and i learned that i can cramk and cramk the car and nothing, but if i disconect the battery for a few seconds, it will start right up.

Anyone got any ideas?

[evil_demon_01]

Fuel or spark.
Which one does it NOT have when it won't start.


That is the ONLY way to even start diagnosing your problem.
Otherwise everything is just guessing.

[cloudasc]

Oh, and i learned that i can cramk and cramk the car and nothing, but if i disconect the battery for a few seconds, it will start right up.

Anyone got any ideas?

When you unplug the battery your essentially resetting the ecu. It tells the main relay what to do, and pretty much everything else for your car. I would try another ecu and see if it fixes the problem.

[My300kCoupe]

it does not have enough spark. The car is well maintained and has new plugs, and obviously ive had the distributer apart in have replaced the cap and rotor. It is not a fuel issue

[My300kCoupe]

When you unplug the battery your essentially resetting the ecu. It tells the main relay what to do, and pretty much everything else for your car. I would try another ecu and see if it fixes the problem.

I have done the A6 conversion to the car, it was an a4. I really dont think its the main realy. For those that have a main realy issue, the way to overcome this it when you car wont start, leave the key on accesory. watch the check engine light closely. eventually you will see it flash 1 time. It will do this ramdomly, whenever it wants to, but right after it flashes, your car will start.

With my issue, i had no cel when it didnt start.

I have the pt6 in the car at the moment. I have the pt3 also. Does this really sound like an issue with the ECU? It doesnt to me, but im asking for help. I guess i should ask if its safe to run an a6 with a pt3?

[Fleetw00d]

My wife's car (the 93 LX sedan) had this type of issue. I changed in the ignition control module, which helped for a while. When I did that, I noticed oil in the distributor. I eventually bought a seal - when I took the distributor off and apart to replace the seal, the insulation on the wires to the sensors within the distributor was cracked and coming off. A new distributor body solved the problem for good.

[deevergote]

It's possible to take the distributor apart and not reassemble it correctly, causing it to function improperly.

It's also possible to get a weak spark due to bad battery or ground connections. Make sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.

[cloudasc]

I have done the A6 conversion to the car, it was an a4. I really dont think its the main realy. For those that have a main realy issue, the way to overcome this it when you car wont start, leave the key on accesory. watch the check engine light closely. eventually you will see it flash 1 time. It will do this ramdomly, whenever it wants to, but right after it flashes, your car will start.

With my issue, i had no cel when it didnt start.

I have the pt6 in the car at the moment. I have the pt3 also. Does this really sound like an issue with the ECU? It doesnt to me, but im asking for help. I guess i should ask if its safe to run an a6 with a pt3?

A pt3 will be able to start and run the car just fine, enough to test if its the issue. Worst case scenario it gives you something to rule out.

[My300kCoupe]

A pt3 will be able to start and run the car just fine, enough to test if its the issue. Worst case scenario it gives you something to rule out.

Well, the thing is, i can go out right now and drive the car with no issues. And on SEVERAL ocasions this week, since i changed the ignitor, ive shut the car off, when i know it wouldnt have started befor, and i had no issue. i made it a point to do this often to test it. i would start it 3 times just to test it. And i changed the whole distributer becouse my old one was in the condition stated above, all the wiring protection was gone. It was used, from a friend off a well running car.
Ive driven the car for 2 hours straight. then stoped, turned it off, and it started 5min. later without issue. Then, out of no where it began not starting again, but only on occasion.

[tJoodz]

Are you sure it's not your main relay? I had basically the same problems as you, it would randomly start and not start. So i resoldered my old main relay and that worked for awhile. Then after awhile I had the same problems again. So i replaced the main relay with a new one and it worked fine after that.

I would double check your main relay.

[TheNextAZN]

This is gonna sound nebbish and wierd, but I can't find the references or threads for what I'm about to try and explain, lol

But, a member here had a similar issue, and he replaced the grey heatsink looking thing on the driver side, under the hood, located basically above the wheel. I forgot what it's called and I don't have a picture for reference, but pop ur hood and when you look to ur right u will see the grey rectangular(approx. 1.5"x4"x1.5") thing with slats that make it look like a heatsink. Find out what it's called buy one should be cheap and hope it works! Lol.

[evil_demon_01]

This is gonna sound nebbish and wierd, but I can't find the references or threads for what I'm about to try and explain, lol

But, a member here had a similar issue, and he replaced the grey heatsink looking thing on the driver side, under the hood, located basically above the wheel. I forgot what it's called and I don't have a picture for reference, but pop ur hood and when you look to ur right u will see the grey rectangular(approx. 1.5"x4"x1.5") thing with slats that make it look like a heatsink. Find out what it's called buy one should be cheap and hope it works! Lol.

Injector resistor Unit.

[wed3k]

yea but except when my injector resistor box went out it would sputter and die.

if the computer is giving you random codes and it doesn't seem like any is making sense. id look into slamming another computer.

my friend's ford that had a bad computer also had a broken ground and a bad o2 sensor. im wondering if one of those was the culprit to taking the computer out. i mean, it showed like 5 codes.

[laloquera]

Same issue here, swap out my main relay three years agon and have not had any issue since. Do a search bar, there use to be a killer DIY sticky back in the day, thats how I nailed my issue. E-Z as uno, dos & tres. Good luck.
Sticky might be over on honda tech forum. Sorry, its been while for me.

[My300kCoupe]

still having the issue. just put up a detailed post, but I couldnt post it.