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Axle problems :confused:

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    Axle problems :confused:

    Ok so me being the newbie i am have no idea what im doing when it comes to alot of things and axels are one of them today i decided to check out my spacer issue ( im going to need front spacers so i was getting measurements) ok anyways i pulled the tire off and was like whats all that grease at the moment i have an oil leak so i figured it was that but then i looked again and was like the boots ripped and i checked the other side and its the same way so i wanna how im going to fix that its a 91 lx 5 speed you might have to dumb some things down for me 😂

    #2
    You can change the axle boots but its probably easier to change the axles. They are about 100 dollars at auto zone. The boots can be changed but hopefully the bearings are still good. Does it click when it turns? if so, the bearings will need to be changed also.
    Procrastination is a THIEF of time!!

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      #3
      Replace the axle. Best to replace both of them.

      Once the boot rips, dirt can get in the grease. Even if you replace the boot, the CV joint can fail very soon after.

      In the future, please at least make an attempt to use proper punctuation. You're asking experienced people for help. Most of those experienced people don't care to take the time to decipher one long run-on sentence.






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        #4
        If you're on a tight budget, you might get lucky and find axles with intact boots at a JY or on craigslist from someone parting a car out. The manual transmission cars have an intermediate shaft mounted to the back of the block and a short axle on the left side (most, if not all, automatics have a long left axle directly from the transmission to the hub.

        Where are you in Ohio?
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          #5
          Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
          If you're on a tight budget, you might get lucky and find axles with intact boots at a JY or on craigslist from someone parting a car out. The manual transmission cars have an intermediate shaft mounted to the back of the block and a short axle on the left side (most, if not all, automatics have a long left axle directly from the transmission to the hub.

          Where are you in Ohio?
          Im down in Newark lol. Sorry Deev I always for get to use periods. Anyways it does click when i turn. But how hard and long will it take to change and what do i need because i have never messed with an axel before. And at rockauto they had like left and right and i was wondering if anyone has seen a full axel on there? Thanks guys i know i sound really uneducated and im sorry for that but i really am uneducated.😂

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            #6
            Ok like i said i am really under educated on things with cars. So i just watched this video on youtube and changing the axel seems easy enough except for getting the axel nut off. I think our front axel nut is a 36mm I'm not sure and how do you pull that stupid notch off the axel nut. I broke a screwdriver last time and i feel like there is a better way

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              #7
              I used a thick chisel to "unbend" or the proper term un-stake the nut from the groove and to get the nut off I had to use a torch to get mine off. I tried a 36" breaker bar with a 7 foot pole and that only resulted in a broken breaker bar and a bent pole. But you may be lucky enough where sheer force is all you need.

              If you are low on money, that axle can wait a bit for you to get the money for a new or remanufactured axle. I drove maybe 6 months with the boot in 2 pieces and there was no noises so I never knew it was ripped.
              Be unique, like every other person.

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                #8
                Originally posted by XCRN View Post
                I used a thick chisel to "unbend" or the proper term un-stake the nut from the groove and to get the nut off I had to use a torch to get mine off. I tried a 36" breaker bar with a 7 foot pole and that only resulted in a broken breaker bar and a bent pole. But you may be lucky enough where sheer force is all you need.

                If you are low on money, that axle can wait a bit for you to get the money for a new or remanufactured axle. I drove maybe 6 months with the boot in 2 pieces and there was no noises so I never knew it was ripped.
                Thanks that was really helpful info😀. I feel like that is why my car shakes like crazy doing 70 mph but i cant find any info on it.

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                  #9
                  A lot of times, that notch will break itself once you ptu presuure on the nut with the breaker bar. If you have access to an impact, just zip it off. Your other challenge will be breaking the brake roter hub from the ball joint without breaking the boot. Both O reilly and Autozone have tools you can borrow to make it happen. Good luck Bro
                  Procrastination is a THIEF of time!!

                  MY MRT

                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203992

                  My First CB7

                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/705233/1990-honda-accord/


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                    #10
                    Originally posted by dahubby View Post
                    A lot of times, that notch will break itself once you ptu presuure on the nut with the breaker bar. If you have access to an impact, just zip it off. Your other challenge will be breaking the brake roter hub from the ball joint without breaking the boot. Both O reilly and Autozone have tools you can borrow to make it happen. Good luck Bro
                    Ok wait what?? Can you explain that a little more i thought you didnt have to take the rotors off ? I thought you just push the axle out through the knuckle assembly ?

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                      #11
                      Axles from Napa are the best way to go. Lifetime warranty

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Red4doorAccord View Post
                        Ok wait what?? Can you explain that a little more i thought you didnt have to take the rotors off ? I thought you just push the axle out through the knuckle assembly ?
                        he meant the knuckle. you have to pop the bottom ball joint out to get the axle out. don't use a pickle fork to do that, you'll just tear the boot on your ball joint. use a pry bar to force the LCA down while you smack the area around the ball joint on the LCA with a hammer. I've had good luck with a round, metal-tipped dead-blow.

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                          #13
                          Ok so got my axles from rockauto.com and im pretty sure i bought the right ones. I was just wondering how you can tell a difference because they look pretty close to me any help is appreciated

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                            #14
                            im thinking the part numbers are 7074 and 7075... and as for breaking the lower ball joints apart ive always ripped my ball joint boot with a pickle fork so i just use a 3# sledge and hit the lower control arm on the flat spot outside of the ball joint. i keep the castle nut on there so when it pops it contains it altogether.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by SimplyJDM90CB7 View Post
                              im thinking the part numbers are 7074 and 7075... and as for breaking the lower ball joints apart ive always ripped my ball joint boot with a pickle fork so i just use a 3# sledge and hit the lower control arm on the flat spot outside of the ball joint. i keep the castle nut on there so when it pops it contains it altogether.
                              So what is the difference between the two because they are exactly the same to me. Boxes look the same and everything and i dont want to mess up my only car. And im pretty one should be longer should it not?

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