Announcement

Collapse

Please DO NOT Post In The General Section

From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.


The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.


For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.


Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.

Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
See more
See less

supercharged H22

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • toycar
    replied
    Originally posted by cincy90h22 View Post
    Sure it will, thats were peak boost was. I have lower low end torque that a stock h22 because of my cams and intake manifold, theyre designed for top end hp. I have a 3in exhaust from the header back, I will be getting a real header when it goes back together. I only stuck with the stock one for the time being until I was satisfied this build would work. As far as power goes I think a 51hp gain on 4psi is pretty sufficient.

    What exactly do you mean my video looks slow? Which video, dyno or street?



    Just pointing out that if it were me, I wouldn't change much more about it.


    High compression, supercharged, mentioned maybe a meth kit.

    Seriously, you want to be able to drive this around town right? You have too nice of a looking car to make this a dyno queen. Keep it 300whp or less so you can atleast drive it back and fourth to work if you want.


    As you are probably already seeing, gears are becoming uselss, torque steer is a bitch, traction is becoming a problem. These and other related problems are only going to get worse with more power.


    Fuck all of that unless you are planning on doing a track car. Track cars shouldn't look as nice as your car does. Track cars get money spent on going fast.


    Cars as nice as yours are meant to be driven around regularly.


    My thoughts, keep it driveable so you'll enjoy it. Too much powa is no fun on the streets, especially in stop and go traffic.

    Leave a comment:


  • tutsuo
    replied
    Originally posted by cincy90h22 View Post

    What does that have to do with anything?

    So i can see how it's holding up... You know glassing over you'r walls or shit shaving down cracking etc... fairly common thing to do actually. -.-"

    Leave a comment:


  • cincy90h22
    replied
    Originally posted by toycar View Post
    Buddy, get a hks style pull BOV and that will cure your flutter problems.



    A greddy is pushed shut via spring pressure and is pushed open to relieve pressure in the charge pipe as it spikes when the throttle closes.

    An hks style valve pulls closed from vac and remains wide open under no load.
    I may try that, thanks

    Originally posted by tutsuo View Post
    Whens the last time you did a compression test ? and how did your cross hatches look? And are you setting ur rev limiter low 7ish or high 8+ ?

    Originally posted by tutsuo View Post
    If you ever take the head off take a picture of your cylinder walls for me.
    What does that have to do with anything?

    Originally posted by PR CB7 View Post
    you should be making more power, you graph says it, there is no way a h22 head will make peak tq at 7500 rpm, and if it does its because the exhaust is restricting it
    being that you have a stock header, you should start by that, tq might drop a little after an exhaust upgrade but you should see about 10whp more on that setup

    your video seems really slow, but i believe the graph
    Sure it will, thats were peak boost was. I have lower low end torque that a stock h22 because of my cams and intake manifold, theyre designed for top end hp. I have a 3in exhaust from the header back, I will be getting a real header when it goes back together. I only stuck with the stock one for the time being until I was satisfied this build would work. As far as power goes I think a 51hp gain on 4psi is pretty sufficient.

    What exactly do you mean my video looks slow? Which video, dyno or street?

    Leave a comment:


  • PR CB7
    replied
    you should be making more power, you graph says it, there is no way a h22 head will make peak tq at 7500 rpm, and if it does its because the exhaust is restricting it
    being that you have a stock header, you should start by that, tq might drop a little after an exhaust upgrade but you should see about 10whp more on that setup

    your video seems really slow, but i believe the graph

    Leave a comment:


  • tutsuo
    replied
    Originally posted by gloryaccordy View Post
    He is revving to 8 I think, at least he was in the vid

    Should be super interesting with the high comp pistons, def looking forward to that
    If you ever take the head off take a picture of your cylinder walls for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • gloryaccordy
    replied
    Originally posted by tutsuo View Post
    Whens the last time you did a compression test ? and how did your cross hatches look? And are you setting ur rev limiter low 7ish or high 8+ ?
    He is revving to 8 I think, at least he was in the vid

    Should be super interesting with the high comp pistons, def looking forward to that

    Leave a comment:


  • tutsuo
    replied
    Originally posted by cincy90h22 View Post
    H trans.
    Whens the last time you did a compression test ? and how did your cross hatches look? And are you setting ur rev limiter low 7ish or high 8+ ?

    Leave a comment:


  • toycar
    replied
    Buddy, get a hks style pull BOV and that will cure your flutter problems.



    A greddy is pushed shut via spring pressure and is pushed open to relieve pressure in the charge pipe as it spikes when the throttle closes.

    An hks style valve pulls closed from vac and remains wide open under no load.
    Last edited by toycar; 02-07-2013, 12:42 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cincy90h22
    replied
    H trans.

    Leave a comment:


  • tutsuo
    replied
    Are you running a F or H transmission ? Oh and do they have F LSD trans ?

    Leave a comment:


  • cincy90h22
    replied
    Yea currently just a regular greddy rs bov. Thats what I was saying a post or two back, there is so much air with the throttle closed at idle it doesnt open enough to release it adequately. When letting off the throttle, it does ok, again - I said I was contemplating running two. I have had it surge the compressor and throw the belt off.. hense my concern.

    Leave a comment:


  • deevergote
    replied
    I'm sure you've addressed it somewhere in the 236 posts of this thread, but I don't see it at a quick glance... How are you dealing with the closing of the throttle plate? I mean, the engine is still spinning the compressor, so it's still ramming air at the closed throttle plate, correct?
    WikkedV16 had that issue when he strapped a roots blower to the front of a Prelude. As soon as he lifted off the gas, it popped the charge piping right off.
    Do you just vent via a blowoff valve?

    Leave a comment:


  • cincy90h22
    replied
    But really im not interested in regulating boost on my setup. It would be an option on a clutch type supercharger if someone ever uses one.

    Leave a comment:


  • cincy90h22
    replied
    Its not a turbo.

    It could still be possible to vent off the charge air, but idk how easily/consistantly you can control pressurized air. At least when a wastegate regulates boost, its reducing speed of the compressor, so before the boost happens. I would have to release more air from the charge pipe, like a boost leak. I dont know, honestly. How well it would work, if it would.

    When this thing goes back together, im contemplating adding another bov. My greddy doesnt seem to be able to handle the airflow. I need one or two that will open at idle, not just when you release the throttle.

    Leave a comment:


  • deevergote
    replied
    The supercharger I picked up is a clutch-activated type from a Benz. I've always wondered if I could essentially turn it off until I wanted power, without totally choking out the engine.

    But yeah, on public roads, a ton of power is difficult to use. Especially if you're not conscious of it. Hell, my basically stock CTS-V (06) is a handfull, even with RWD, LSD, traction control, etc... If I'm on a rough patch of road, I have to be very careful with the clutch and throttle, or the rear end is all over the place. Traction with a FWD car is even worse, especially since the wheels that determine the car's direction are the ones that will be losing traction!

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X