Project Acclipse underway!!

[ringmaster]

great but i think ill wait till I see if thats even the problem though... plus it sounds like a chainsaw and i don't feel like waking everyone here up. lol
don't worry ill let you know if thats what it was

[WiKKeDV16]

well even with the 2nd map hes sending u.. im pretty sure ur gonna have that low idle (almost wanting to die) feel.. until its really tuned really well.. lol.. so raising the idle is a way to cheat it.. wont cure it fully but will help stabilize the problem

[ringmaster]

so I might have to cheat it for a while then as all the dynos' here are pretty booked.

[WiKKeDV16]

well u dont need a dyno.. u need a chip burner.. and a laptop and wideband

street tune it baybe..number 1 way to go

[ringmaster]

ill just go out back to where the money tree grows and pick that stuff up then! not.

In time I will learn how to use uberdata and ill get a wideband but im still paying off my CC bill for most of this project.

[ringmaster]

just got my new chip today so i put it in, double checked all my connections and re tightened all bolts and fittings and fired her up again. it ran much smoother than before and didnt backfire nearly as much as when i started it on the first chip. so i decided to take it around the block and heres what i found:

- lol hard to stay out of boost.. had to keep forcing it to downshift so it wouldnt try and spool up

- When I started it and through out the trip I noticed the "S" for sportmode was blinking a code at me and didnt change when I pressed the sport button... i checked haynes and they didnt list and codes for the transmition so does anyone know how to pull a code here or what they mean???

- I have no dash lights?? and also no spedo when i turn the headlights on. the signal(s) left or right blink very fast when signaling. and sugestions??

- The upper rad hose looked like a fat expanded worm ready to burst... i didnt have to look at it long to realize that I should shut off the car and close the hood. I remember reading on here about some guys with this same problem so im just searching for that thread right now but if anyone has and ideas or knows of a fix please mention it to me. perhaps a new thermostat and or rad cap??

[i_love_cb7]

- I have no dash lights?? and also no spedo when i turn the headlights on. the signal

Is ur belt tighten right?? or maybe battery needs rechage but sounds also like the 5 sp p06 with ur auto...(I hope not, crossing finger for u)

Good luck!!!

[Backfire32]

wow i hope mine won't bee like that when starting i up!

[ringmaster]

so after a bit of reading I decided the problem was a fried TCU... after pulling it apart there is no evidence of the three burnt resistors that would indicate failure. so on a hunch I popped the first chip MRX sent me back in and NO SPORTMODE flashing.... weird i think.
Midnite: are there any options on uber that were on the first chip that were not put on the second or the other way around? maby its something my guy here in town can fix if its just a matter of checking a box in uberdata.

[ringmaster]

so i guess I solved one of my problems through searching. After reading about troubles that theone and midnite racer x had with their cooling systems I have decided to order a high preasure rad cap (19-22psi) to keep the preasure up in the system and boiling point up as well. Ill also flush the coolant and use 75% water and 25% coolant and im looking into the JR 160 degree thermostat as well as the OBX reinforced rad hoses (RH06)

[MRX]

did you tell me you had an auto!?!?!? I don't ever remember you mentioning it at all! I can't believe you didn't tell me that. I don't have my laptop with me to check the maps but the only difference would have been one map was in 1.66 and the other 1.7. Other than that uber has no boxes or settings to adjust for auto trannies. So the ecu you used was a 5 speed right? The tranny still operates through all the gears right? I wonder if the auto guys should use an auto ecu. Congrats tho, u just opened up a door that hasn't been opened b4...pioneer

P.S. I have a Greddy rad cap if you'd like to purchase it, brand new and un-used

[WiKKeDV16]

HA! that means the auto boys are stuck in 1.66? or 1.7? either way it fucking works.. and this is good news for a project im working on

"i wonder if the auto guys should use an auto ecu"



thats what i mentioned to u earlier.. but did u send ringmaster a 5spd? if its working then fuck it.. lol.. just maybe they cant function in either 1.66 or 1.7.. HURRY UP AND TELL ME WHICH DAMNIT!

[MRX]

i only sent him a chip...i won't know till i can get to my laptop...around 10ish tonight

[ringmaster]

LOL man i can't believe i didnt mention that either!!! well I AM using an auto P06 ECU to run the thing.... i knew enough to buy that instead of a 5spd. I think upon reflecting on my test drive that it must have started in second or third from a stop because it took like 2000rpm to even get going and like I mentioned earlier it got very hot very fast. I only took it for about 5 min max.
I know from reading that starting in a gear other than first means that your TCU is throwing a code... or four in my case.

how much you want for that cap? also what psi is it rated to?

[Boost_Lee]

this doesnt sound good for auto guys...*swallows hard* (dont blow that out of proportion Los)...we do need to find out fast! I run a 5spd PT6 on my car and its fine, leading me to believe that one of the Uber versions is not compatable. ringmaster, you said that the first chip threw no tranny codes right?