Ok so I am just about done making my subharness. I put in a intermediate plug so. Don't have tO cut my wires if I need to take the motor out later. But here is what I got so far and a question. The IAB solenoid is wired to the quick release the blk/yellow wire is ground but I read that's a 12v so should I wire that to the iacv 12v and what color is that one
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Originally posted by BustedLX View PostSwap Faq's for the CB7
General Swap Info:
...[snip]...
Pin locations for OBD-1 ECU’s:
- Vtec solenoid: Pin A4
- Vtec pressure switch: Pin D6
- Knock sensor: Pin D3
- Secondary Intake Solenoid: Pin A17 (Connect Black/Yellow wire on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A17)
- FPR Solenoid: Pin A10 (Connect Black/Yellow on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A10. This Solenoid is not found on all H22’s but it is on some. It will not hurt anything if you don’t use it, but should you want to this is the correct way to connect it. It is located near the fuel rail next to the IAC on the H22)
* Using a 94/95 Accord ECU (P0A/P0B)? Swap pin A6 with A11 on the ECU harness. This is necessary since the 5th gen was wired opposite of the 4th gen for these two pins.
Where to get pins:
Go to a junkyard, find any OBD-1 Honda, and cut the ECU harness out. There you have a ready supply of ECU pins. Just remove the style pin you need and install it in the blank spot on your current plug. Of course cut enough so you can splice to
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Plug identification and numbering:
The largest plug is “A”, the middle and smallest is “B”, the last and second largest plug is “D”. Plug “C” only exists on 4WS vehicles. The pins are numbers in the “Zig-Zag” fashion and from the wire side. Meaning looking at the plug from the wire side pin 1 will be on the left, pin 2 below it, pin 3 to the right of pin 1 on the top row, so on and so fourth. Top row is odd and the bottom row is even.
[snip]...The BLK/YLW coming out of the solenoid can splice to any BLK/YLW or YLW/BLK in the engine harness. It all gets the same power and you'd be wiring it in parallel, not in series, by doing this so no harm done to any other component's source voltage. The other wire coming out of the solenoid goes straight to the ECU at Pin A17.Originally posted by BustedLX View PostBasically any source that has 12 volt positive when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. You can connect that wire to any black/yellow or yellow/black in the engine harness.Originally posted by cb7-R View PostWhat do you mean (bustedlx) when you say to connect the black /yellow wire to switched ignition.(the secondary intake connector) Can you tell what I should connect it to,thanx.
EDIT - I figure I'll post this correction, for the sake of future readers not having to worry about being unknowingly misinformed for not having read the rest of this thread:
Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostJust to avoid any confusion - BLK/YLW is not the same as YLW/BLK.
The first named colour is the predominant colour, with the 2nd colour being the trace colour.
There are both BLK/YLW and YLW/BLK wires in the engine bay, and the YLW/BLK wires have different functions depending on what system uses them.
For an ignition ON 12v source you need to use any BLK/YLW wire.
Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-06-2011, 09:46 AM.
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Hot dog, well if you feed a moose molasses it will sweeten the meat. That is just what i was looking for. Thanks.Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostThe BLK/YLW coming out of the solenoid can splice to any BLK/YLW or YLW/BLK in the engine harness. It all gets the same power and you'd be wiring it in parallel, not in series, by doing this so no harm done to any other component's source voltage. The other wire coming out of the solenoid goes straight to the ECU at Pin A17.
Man I can't wait til i'm running my H. Whowee you dun made me bout the happiest summ*itch around.
No really thanks i appreciate the answer. I saw the first one about the switched ignition but didn't get the second quote was on point. Again its much appreciated.
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Will it really?Originally posted by IridiumCore View PostHot dog, well if you feed a moose molasses it will sweeten the meat. That is just what i was looking for. Thanks.MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
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Just to avoid any confusion - BLK/YLW is not the same as YLW/BLK.Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostThe BLK/YLW coming out of the solenoid can splice to any BLK/YLW or YLW/BLK in the engine harness.
The first named colour is the predominant colour, with the 2nd colour being the trace colour.
There are both BLK/YLW and YLW/BLK wires in the engine bay, and the YLW/BLK wires have different functions depending on what system uses them.
For an ignition ON 12v source you need to use any BLK/YLW wire.Last edited by evil_demon_01; 12-22-2010, 12:58 AM.
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
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I havent started the actual swap yet. That will take place in June. so far I have completed the harness, replaced water pump, and belts. Next i need to replace the knock sensor and Ian solenoid.Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostI'm just curious, how's the swap coming along?
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sweet going the smart route by replacing all the maintenance stuff and then some

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1992 Accord EX Coupe
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Originally posted by deevergoteBoosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.
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yeah since this is my first swap I wanna take my time. I think it was Isaac Newton that said "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong." so I just look over it, look over it some more and replace something I learned here, that are good to replace.Originally posted by almostJDM View Postsweet going the smart route by replacing all the maintenance stuff and then some
I'm looking at about another buck 25 to go for now and then I'll prolly paint my valve cover and replace the lower tube seals. I realy hope that is easier that it seems.
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