car wont start

[Shag Wagon]

I would say main relay but idk. Try that too.

[lildeez07]

ok check this out im gettin fuel to the rail it will build pressure but only under cranking it wont prime iight. the injectors are not clogged cuz i tested them in the other car and i tried new injectors. its not the fuel filter its another one on there and yes there is spark in all cylinders

[lildeez07]

ok so im about ready to effin blow this car to hell cuz i cant get the dang thing to start. can anyone help plz i dont want to sell the car but if i have to i will cuz this sucks

[cloudasc]

Have you tried pumping the gas pedal while cranking? I just started having a wierd problem, where my car will start for a split second (literally) then die, if I punch the accellerator when it "catches" for that split second, it revs and the car is fine until I turn it off again.

[IAmTheNight]

1. Check for DTCs
2. CRITICAL: Are you checking the yellow wire as soon as you turn the key to the on position? The wire de-energizes after about 2 seconds.
3. auto or manual?

My hypothesis is that it is an ignition switch problem but I need more information before I can come to a conclusion.

[batever]

could it be the ignition switch cuz i have went through everything else

how can it be the ignition switch if you say you are getting spark? Or haven't you actually checked the spark?

maybe there is more to the ignition switch than I realize.

Anyways, don't give up on the entire car just because you're frustrated. Get methodical and convinced that you will solve it and you will. Frustration oft comes before the biggest victory. You can solve this. But maybe take a break, relax a little, and sleep on it. The answer may come in your dreams.

Make sure the ECU isn't coding something. Is there a fuse related to this problem>

Good night and good luck

[lildeez07]

1. Check for DTCs
2. CRITICAL: Are you checking the yellow wire as soon as you turn the key to the on position? The wire de-energizes after about 2 seconds.
3. auto or manual?

My hypothesis is that it is an ignition switch problem but I need more information before I can come to a conclusion.

1 what is DTC

2 yes im checking the wire as soon as i turn the key in fact the voltage meter is connected while i turn the key

3 manual

[lildeez07]

how can it be the ignition switch if you say you are getting spark? Or haven't you actually checked the spark?

maybe there is more to the ignition switch than I realize.

Anyways, don't give up on the entire car just because you're frustrated. Get methodical and convinced that you will solve it and you will. Frustration oft comes before the biggest victory. You can solve this. But maybe take a break, relax a little, and sleep on it. The answer may come in your dreams.

Make sure the ECU isn't coding something. Is there a fuse related to this problem>

Good night and good luck

thanks for the encouragement man i really appreciate it. but i said ignition switch cuz im fresh out of ideas. but yeah i have spark in all cylinders

[90accords]

1 what is DTC

2 yes im checking the wire as soon as i turn the key in fact the voltage meter is connected while i turn the key

3 manual

Diagnostic Trouble Code..... he was telling you to pull any codes from the ecu that might be stored I believe. Also, have you checked the resistor box for the injectors yet...... couldn't tell you any specs, but if you're having injector issues, I would at least give it some consideration.

[evil_demon_01]

1. Check for DTCs
2. CRITICAL: Are you checking the yellow wire as soon as you turn the key to the on position? The wire de-energizes after about 2 seconds.
3. auto or manual?

My hypothesis is that it is an ignition switch problem but I need more information before I can come to a conclusion.

Best answer so far, even if is is a question (can't help anyone without knowing the relevant questions)

DTC as 90accords said, stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code. It is indicated by the engine check light staying on on the cluster.

1) Do you have Spark?
2) Do you have Fuel to the combustion chamber? (ie fuel coming out of injectors)
3) Do you have compression?
4) Is your static timing correct?

If you have all 4 of those things the engine will start. So One of them must be missing - Let us know which one. And we can give you a solution

[lildeez07]

Best answer so far, even if is is a question (can't help anyone without knowing the relevant questions)

DTC as 90accords said, stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code. It is indicated by the engine check light staying on on the cluster.

1) Do you have Spark?
2) Do you have Fuel to the combustion chamber? (ie fuel coming out of injectors)
3) Do you have compression?
4) Is your static timing correct?

If you have all 4 of those things the engine will start. So One of them must be missing - Let us know which one. And we can give you a solution

i told you already i have spark in all four cylinders
no fuel in the chamber
yes i do have good compression
and my timing is dead on

[lildeez07]

Diagnostic Trouble Code..... he was telling you to pull any codes from the ecu that might be stored I believe. Also, have you checked the resistor box for the injectors yet...... couldn't tell you any specs, but if you're having injector issues, I would at least give it some consideration.

i will check for trouble cobes right now but it may take a while cuz the car had a dash swap and the diagnostic connector is not where its suppose to be
(yes the car was running after the dash swap)

[IAmTheNight]

1. Were there any wiring changes after this dash swap? If so, give details.

2. Check the black/green wire to the main relay. This is the wire that the ECU uses to energize the fuel pump for those two seconds. I have studied a few wiring diagrams and am almost certain that there is a break in this wire (if you replaced the ECU with a known good one). This wire will do the same thing as the yellow wire (energize for two seconds then shut off).

EDIT: A little more info on that black/green wire: It goes to the black and green wire on the clutch interlock switch. That wire is energized only for two reasons:
1. when the clutch interlock switch is engaged and the ignition switch is in the START position
2. when the ECU is properly performing the prime sequence

[lildeez07]

nevermind

[lildeez07]

1. Were there any wiring changes after this dash swap? If so, give details.

idk the previous owner did the swap but he said it was running after he did the swap