I would say main relay but idk. Try that too.
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ok check this out im gettin fuel to the rail it will build pressure but only under cranking it wont prime iight. the injectors are not clogged cuz i tested them in the other car and i tried new injectors. its not the fuel filter its another one on there and yes there is spark in all cylinders
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1. Check for DTCs
2. CRITICAL: Are you checking the yellow wire as soon as you turn the key to the on position? The wire de-energizes after about 2 seconds.
3. auto or manual?
My hypothesis is that it is an ignition switch problem but I need more information before I can come to a conclusion.
"The fault-finder will find faults even in paradise. Love your life, poor as it is. You may perhaps have some pleasant, thrilling, glorious hours, even in a poorhouse."-Henry David Thoreau
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Originally posted by lildeez07 View Postcould it be the ignition switch cuz i have went through everything else
maybe there is more to the ignition switch than I realize.
Anyways, don't give up on the entire car just because you're frustrated. Get methodical and convinced that you will solve it and you will. Frustration oft comes before the biggest victory. You can solve this. But maybe take a break, relax a little, and sleep on it. The answer may come in your dreams.
Make sure the ECU isn't coding something. Is there a fuse related to this problem>
Good night and good luckLast edited by batever; 06-17-2009, 03:29 AM.
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Originally posted by IAmTheNight View Post1. Check for DTCs
2. CRITICAL: Are you checking the yellow wire as soon as you turn the key to the on position? The wire de-energizes after about 2 seconds.
3. auto or manual?
My hypothesis is that it is an ignition switch problem but I need more information before I can come to a conclusion.
2 yes im checking the wire as soon as i turn the key in fact the voltage meter is connected while i turn the key
3 manual
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Originally posted by batever View Posthow can it be the ignition switch if you say you are getting spark? Or haven't you actually checked the spark?
maybe there is more to the ignition switch than I realize.
Anyways, don't give up on the entire car just because you're frustrated. Get methodical and convinced that you will solve it and you will. Frustration oft comes before the biggest victory. You can solve this. But maybe take a break, relax a little, and sleep on it. The answer may come in your dreams.
Make sure the ECU isn't coding something. Is there a fuse related to this problem>
Good night and good luck
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Originally posted by lildeez07 View Post1 what is DTC
2 yes im checking the wire as soon as i turn the key in fact the voltage meter is connected while i turn the key
3 manual
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Originally posted by IAmTheNight View Post1. Check for DTCs
2. CRITICAL: Are you checking the yellow wire as soon as you turn the key to the on position? The wire de-energizes after about 2 seconds.
3. auto or manual?
My hypothesis is that it is an ignition switch problem but I need more information before I can come to a conclusion.
DTC as 90accords said, stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code. It is indicated by the engine check light staying on on the cluster.
1) Do you have Spark?
2) Do you have Fuel to the combustion chamber? (ie fuel coming out of injectors)
3) Do you have compression?
4) Is your static timing correct?
If you have all 4 of those things the engine will start. So One of them must be missing - Let us know which one. And we can give you a solution
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostBest answer so far, even if is is a question (can't help anyone without knowing the relevant questions)
DTC as 90accords said, stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code. It is indicated by the engine check light staying on on the cluster.
1) Do you have Spark?
2) Do you have Fuel to the combustion chamber? (ie fuel coming out of injectors)
3) Do you have compression?
4) Is your static timing correct?
If you have all 4 of those things the engine will start. So One of them must be missing - Let us know which one. And we can give you a solution
no fuel in the chamber
yes i do have good compression
and my timing is dead on
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Originally posted by 90accords View PostDiagnostic Trouble Code..... he was telling you to pull any codes from the ecu that might be stored I believe. Also, have you checked the resistor box for the injectors yet...... couldn't tell you any specs, but if you're having injector issues, I would at least give it some consideration.
(yes the car was running after the dash swap)
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1. Were there any wiring changes after this dash swap? If so, give details.
2. Check the black/green wire to the main relay. This is the wire that the ECU uses to energize the fuel pump for those two seconds. I have studied a few wiring diagrams and am almost certain that there is a break in this wire (if you replaced the ECU with a known good one). This wire will do the same thing as the yellow wire (energize for two seconds then shut off).
EDIT: A little more info on that black/green wire: It goes to the black and green wire on the clutch interlock switch. That wire is energized only for two reasons:
1. when the clutch interlock switch is engaged and the ignition switch is in the START position
2. when the ECU is properly performing the prime sequenceLast edited by IAmTheNight; 06-17-2009, 01:14 PM.
"The fault-finder will find faults even in paradise. Love your life, poor as it is. You may perhaps have some pleasant, thrilling, glorious hours, even in a poorhouse."-Henry David Thoreau
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